Keep an eye out for this!
-
Even the "OK" (by his grading) soldered ones actually have marginal to poor solder joints.Originally posted by rifleman_btx View PostFF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.
current planes from 1/2 oz to 22 lbsComment
-
I totally agree, thats one i wouldn't trust at all.Comment
-
Do these XT60's look ok? I sure wouldn't want a fire. Havn't a chance to do a test print yet. Was going to work on it tomorrow. I'll check the solder joints then.Comment
-
The area of concern, in my opinion, would be covered by the heat shrink.
I'll be needing to cut the heat shrink off of mine and inspect. But I expect they are OK because I have been running 65 deg print bed 205 deg nozzle on prints exceeding 24 hours. (high detail lithophanes)FF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.
current planes from 1/2 oz to 22 lbsComment
-
Makes me think maybe those were in just a certain batch, and not all, or they would have had to do a redesign somewhere.Comment
-
-
I’m sure this has been asked somewhere in this thread before so I’ll apologize up front. I don’t have a printer but a friend of my son has one. I’m looking to print up a nose gear brace for the L39, the cockpit details and some wheel chocks. What is the best material to use? He has PLA, but I know others here use ABS. What would be the best material to use for the brace? Don’t think the other pieces would be as critical as the brace so PLA will probably work fine. What does everyone recommend.
Thanks in advanceComment
-
PLA is very close to the strength of ABS. ABS tolerates higher temperature but presents some issues when printing due to higher thermal expansion.
Most are just going ahead with PLA.
There are also several more filament types. Most a simple, low end, printer such as the Ender 3 can handle, some it can not.
I recommend looking at the "Makers Muse" channel on Youtube. (and several others) These are highly informative about how to get the best results.
Some people are printing entire airplanes from PLA. When the glue joints (required due to exceeding maximum size the 3D printers can typically deal with) hold, they are very durable.
You might want to protect PLA printed parts from hot summer sunlight in some areas... The plastic deforms at much lower temperature than what is used for printing. Hot water can let you do some reshaping without the water boiling. 100C is boiling point of water (at standard sea level pressure) and we print at about 195C to 205C for PLA.
(I'm thinking of doing the "Hairy Lion" and using hot water to style his hair)FF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.
current planes from 1/2 oz to 22 lbsComment
-
Im in the process of printing plane #3 in pla. Its a 64" Edge. I picked up the files for it the F86, and the PBY during the sale. I feel good with how the previous 2 planes came out and are flying very nice, now i want to dive into more technical larger projects. As well as a few smaller ones for my sons train set. 2019 is shaping up to be a very promising year here in Texas!:Cool:Comment
-
Hi guys
I bought the aircoup from lofted aero and for some reason I have the left wing files but not the right wing any idea where they are located ? ThanksComment
-
You might get better traction on your answer over at rcgroups, he is active there and has a thread open for this plane:Originally posted by bradl4648 View Post
Comment
-
thanks really appreciate that.Comment
-
The 64 inch edge is coming along well. Have a few more fuse parts to print up then its on to the wings.Comment
-
RMBTX, you never cease to amaze. Excellent work, Brother. Best, LBOriginally posted by rifleman_btx View PostI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446Comment
-
Its been a great process so far, I was running both printers at one point to increase my production, it's becoming more and more fun just to print and build as time goes on, im really looking forward to getting this one into the air, itll be my first extreme aerobatic planeComment
-
What would be a good 3D printer? Never used one but seeing all the things that could be printed is amazing!Comment
-
I love my Prusa MK3. It's pricey though. But I find it prints in better quality than some of the cheaper printers on the market.PatComment
-
Excellent results with the Ender 3...
Note the default settings for the "slicer" software are bad far the Ender 3. There is a "magic number" 0.04 for layer height. 0.1 is not evenly divisible by 0.04 you get a better print in less time at 0.12, which is evenly divisible by 0.04. None of the Cura slicer default "suggested" settings are correct for the Ender 3.
Its in how stepper motors work. There are "magic numbers" for every 3D printer.
The glass build plate and hairspray trick is magic for better adhesion and thus fewer failed prints.
Piercing the fiament through some scrap foam (from the printer shipping box) so the foam wpies dust ff just before the filament goes into the printer's feed system will mean far fewer nozzle clogs.
Keeping the filament dry (low humidity storage) prevents absorbed moisture trapped in the filament
The absorbed moisture causes bubbles in the extruded plastic, which will create ugly results regardless of what printer you use.
See the Makers Muse YouTube channel (among others) to learn more about how to get better resultsFF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.
current planes from 1/2 oz to 22 lbsComment
-
Absolutely, makers muse will get you going in the right direction. Anet is good but you have to build it from a box of parts. The 2 i got you do have to build some upgrades. But once you have them the print quality skyrockets. The new one, Adimlab printer has excellent customer support. They will help troubleshoot and if needed replace parts under warranty. Very good buy for $380. I'll buy more from them in the future without doubt.Comment
Comment