Official 3DP Thread

[Elbee]

Hey All, Just a quick I3 MK3 update. After over Four (4) miles of filament, my X Axis linear bearings are asking to be retired..

The two 8mm S/S carrier rods show no degradation in diameter which is great news.

What prompted the maintenance check was a dramatic increase in 'crashes' while printing, so me being me started looking for software and firmware issues and not a hardware issue.

In the last firmware update, Prusa had adjusted that sensitivity while adding some detail enhancing algorithms to the updated Prusa slicer.

All-in-all, great fixes, but it did increase the likelihood that crashes would appear at a higher rate. (You can override this by switching to "Stealth Mode", but print times will be a bit slower).

Turns out the linear bearings are worn to point of replacement and while I am replacing those I will install the Mk3 "S" Upgrade (I bought in 2018 LOL).

The Axiom being, if your printer is printing to your satisfaction don't make changes for the sake of change. Good Advice, that.

It seems a small thing can effect the larger over time and much like the frog in the pot of slow boiling water, I didn't notice the problems until it was too late.

This sort of maintenance is easy and inexpensive, 3-4 hours of disassembly-reassembly and less than $50.00 in bearings with shipping.

So, after a few miles of filament, if you're having frequent print crashing or even unexpected artifact issues, first lube your linear bearings and next try replacing those.

Best to all, LB

[Elbee]

davegee, et al,

After I completed the Mk3 to Mk3S upgrade, I had some unexpected results when making the "First layer Adjustment".

When adjusting for "Z" axis (up/down), in days of yore I had a "Live Z" (distance between the Nozzle and the Print Sheet) of -0.870 on a textured sheet.

Once set on my machine, I hadn't touched it in years even with nozzle changes, .

Now with the rebuilt "S" Extruder that value is -2.075 and I am still baby step tuning it downward. Shorter Extruder body.

In my mind I know this value is just that, a value that is variable until it is correct for the printer, but what a difference.

Some pictures of what is so slow and boring, much like me, but required.

It is a process, like building Foamies, .

All will be well in the kingdom soon.

Best, LB

[Elbee]

Hey Y'all.

Prusa Mk3 to Mk3S upgrade completed with new linear bearings and PINDA Probe.


All "Z" calibrations are good with a darn near perfect Linear "Z" Tower with a 0.4 nozzle.

Considering the printer was working perfectly beforehand, I should have heeded my own advise and left well enough alone.

It is a bit a work, but in the end I am tickled.

Additionally, I figure I've saved $899 USD by not buying the new Mk4 Kit with the bearing replacements.

Best to all, LB

[davegee]

Hey Y'all.

Prusa Mk3 to Mk3S upgrade completed with new linear bearings and PINDA Probe.


All "Z" calibrations are good with a darn near perfect Linear "Z" Tower with a 0.4 nozzle.

Considering the printer was working perfectly beforehand, I should have heeded my own advise and left well enough alone.

It is a bit a work, but in the end I am tickled.

Additionally, I figure I've saved $899 USD by not buying the new Mk4 Kit with the bearing replacements.

Best to all, LB

Awesome, Elbee! Great news!

Cheers

davegee

[CF-105]

Nice! You gotta admit though - the Mk4 with the automatic Z calibration and easy-change nozzles is tempting! For me anyway. I just want things "to work" without any patience required on my part!

[Elbee]

Nice! You gotta admit though - the Mk4 with the automatic Z calibration and easy-change nozzles is tempting! For me anyway. I just want things "to work" without any patience required on my part!

CF, Copy that.

I am still daydreaming about the Mk4, we'll see.

I am also on the fence about getting a resin printer.

It would be about detail parts only, IPs, consoles, pilot figures which makes one an option but not a need, if you follow my line of reason.

Still, one would be very cool.

Mk4 or Resin? Less expensive to get a resin as the Prusa SL1S is just way out there in price for how I would use one.

Time will tell.

Best, LB

[CF-105]

LOL that sounds familiar! I'm considering a Mk4 for next year. Resin is tempting, but not sure I want to mess with all the chemicals & stuff. I'd probably melt my eyeballs! Same sort of reasoning why I've avoided getting a laser cutter.

[Elbee]

https://www.printables.com/model/618812-flightline-1600mm-corsair-cowl-flap-modification

Corsair Connoisseurs, I have 'Published' my FlightLine 1600mm Corsair Cowl Flap Modification with Prusa Printables.

The link is above and I will post this in the Official FlightLine 1600mm Corsair/Bubbletop Thread.

This mod fits both of the FlightLine Corsairs.

Any questions/comments, please PM me.

Best, LB

[Elbee]

3D Printers,

I am arming up my Corsair before moving onto the weathering.

I am designing/redesigning a M64 500lb bomb for the Corsair and both the Brewster Bomb Rack and the "infield modified" rack.

Fuel tank)s) and pylons will follow.

Best, LB

[Elbee]

https://www.printables.com/@Stevie_14806/models

3D Printing Pals and Persons,

I have posted a link to the G-Code files for my Brewster Bomb Rack and AN-M64 500lb bomb designs at Prusa Printables.

The G-Codes are listed for a Prusa Mk3/3S/3S+ but will work with many i3 style filament printers.

If you have an issue with the G-Codes not printing on a non-Prusa machine, let me know what machine you have and I will re-slice the STLs for something more generic.

I will post the link in the Official 1600mm FlightLine Corsair forum here at the Squawk, as well.

Enjoy and happy printing.

Best, LB

[Elbee]

Printables

https://www.printables.com/model/958206-freewing-fa-18c-90mm-edf-vents-louvres-and-antenna

Hornet Honchos & 3D Printers wherever you are,.

I have posted the 3DP files for all the fuselage vents, louvres, and antennae I added to my Legacy "BUG" on Prusa Printables.

As usual these are downloadable for free. WooHoo!!

Some of these parts require some 'foam surgery' which violates any warranty real or imagined offered by MotionRC or any other distributor of FreeWing EDF jets, but nothing new about that.

Any issues, let me know.

Best, LB

[Elbee]

Hey all,

For a couple of weeks now, I've been chasing a linear artifact in my prints that shows up as fairly evenly spaced gaps when printing flat on the heat bed and vertically in walls.

I presumed it was under-extrusion which is one possibility, but only one.

I chased that assumption to its' limit by tearing down and rebuilding the Extruder, changing the nozzle 3 times, changing filaments, recalibrating X,Y,Z and the first layer height a dozen times.

I tried increasing/decreasing the extrusion multiplier, lubing all the bearings again, cleaning the Bondtech gears again, but changing only one thing at a time.

You get the idea, but needless to say this takes a lot of time and reprinting the part adds to that repair time.

Surprisingly the problem was simple and logical, but melted down my tiny brain with input overload for the duration.

After 297 days, 14 hours, and 41 minutes and 5.566243 miles (8958 meters or 9.468644e-13 light years) of filament and good printing, the upper X-axis polished stainless steel rod has a horizontal 0.625"+ linear score roughly dead center in the shaft.

Of course it is on the back side of the rod, and naturally the rod is highly reflective so it is not only difficult to see and almost undetectable by feel.

I rotated the rod 90 degrees and the print was better, I rotated another 45 degrees and the flaw disappeared...I'll remember next time.

I should have seen this earlier in my diagnosis and saved myself the endless and mindless cursing, and that hole in the wall where my head went.

Replacement rods and bearings are on the way.

Summary: Look for the logical thing first as it was the simplest reason for the flaw, but I took the longest route to find it; adding credence to the quote, 'it's not the destination, it's the journey.'

Horse-poop.

Best, LB