Roban - World Class Scale Helicopters

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New project... Boredom is a curse... Lol

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  • #21
    I was thinking that I want to run both drag rudders and differential thrust. I wonder if that would still work using a gyro stabilizer?

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    • #22
      Wow... beats me. Why do you want differential thrust plus rudder\ ailevon control? My first reaction is... keep it simple. It will have ailevons I assume. I have a feeling it will turn just fine with ailevons, alone. Just a thought. I figure you'll need a gyro no matter what. The stealth bomber wouldn't even get off the ground in one piece without computers. Doc

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      • #23
        I agree with Doc, keep it simple. You will almost definitely need a gyro on the drag rudders at the least, it is quite difficult to manipulate them directly and get the reaction that you expected. Only reason I can see for diff thrust is maybe another flight mode to use it during taxi.

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        • #24
          Yeah it'll have the ailveons and drag rudders. I wasn't sure if I wanted them, was just wondering if they would work with the stabilizers. I've been more inclined to go only drag rudders for yaw control.

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          • #25
            Actually, now I remember why I wanted to hook the throttle to the drag rudders, I was wanting to use the rudder to help with speed, have them work like a speed break when slowing down so they would deploy open when I cut throttle and close as I increase it. That sort of thing not really for thrust differential.

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            • #26
              That is way above my pay grade. I would just put the drag rudders into the flap channel and use them manualy...I think.:Confused:Doc

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              • #27
                That would be a really cool mix, but I'm not sure how that would work and it would be very difficult (if not impossible) to achieve if you use a gyro on the drag rudders. For some of the issues with drag rudders, take a look over on the LX twin 64mm B-2 thread on RCG and search for posts on rudders: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ead%21/page107. From what I've read, there are two main options for using them reliably. The first is a gyro on yaw, and the second is to leave the neutral position of each rudder open a bit at neutral. This essentially acts like a less efficient vertical tail, and will help stabilize the model in yaw.

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                • #28
                  I do actually have a theory on making your mix work with a gyro installed. You would need a gyro with a dual rudder input to get what you want, but there are none that I know of. However, you could use an A3 Super II gyro that has a dual aileron input, and plug the lead for each rudder into the dual aileron ports, then orient the stabilizer so that its aileron axis is aligned with the yaw axis of the model. After setting the correction direction appropriately, it should do the trick, as long as you are only using stabilization in yaw. I hope that makes at least a bit of sense, just a theory..

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                  • #29
                    Yeah it does. I may just say screw it and just run simple drag rudder and not deal with the headache going through all that would seem to be. Just the gyro stabilizer and roll with it.

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                    • #30
                      Originally posted by rifleman_btx View Post
                      Yeah it does. I may just say screw it and just run simple drag rudder and not deal with the headache going through all that would seem to be. Just the gyro stabilizer and roll with it.
                      Sounds like a good idea to me. And besides, using them as brakes is just programming, easy to add them whenever you want if you find them necessary in flight or on landing.

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                      • #31
                        Indeed, that's why I like this place when I'm brain storming, it's nice to have good people to bounce ideas back and forth :Cool:

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                        • #32
                          Curious... are you going to use stick built wood/ply or foam? I'm tending toward foam structure with foam sheathing. Not solid foam. Doc

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                          • #33
                            I am going with foam and fiberglass I'm thinking. And of course alot of carbon fiber

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                            • #34
                              I'm gonna try a method a buddy of mine uses on his planes. Using light weight glass with paint to seal it on. It looks really nice on his planes, I figure it's worth a try

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                              • #35
                                Some guys use light weight glass and polyurathane. A guy did a youtube test on foam and it looked pretty strong. After all the strength is in the glass not the medium that holds the glass in place. I did a quick experiment with WBPU and glass and it was really stiff. Been toying with the idea of using this method on a foamie but haven't really had the need with EPO.

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                                • #36
                                  Indeed, with this being foam board insulation, I think it'll definitely be beneficial. As you say on epo, absolutely no need for it at all

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                                  • #37
                                    Call me crazy...but take a look at the Freewing A-6 Intruder wing set. Then the A-10 engine nacells, EDF, cockpit, and retracts. I feel a Dr. Frankenstein wing coming on! The Doctor :Ligthbulb::wacky

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                                    • #38
                                      Aaaaahhh interesting indeed! Gotta post that up if you start that build!

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                                      • #39
                                        Just bought new Michelins for my Tacoma. May not be buying airplanes or parts for a little while, dang it! :(:Crying2:Doc

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                                        • #40
                                          Another thing that might be worth trying is making a prototype in dollar tree foamboard before you do a full build in balsa/insulation foam, something like the build style of the FT Versa wing: https://flitetest.com/articles/ft-versa-wing-build. That would allow you to mess around with CG, power setups, and retract setup before you risk all of your hard work. Worst case, you are out a couple dollars worth of foam..

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