New project... Boredom is a curse... Lol

[rifleman_btx]

Indeed I'm gonna have to pick some up Frankenjet. I really thought about the wire extensions as well. I don't know if it's at all true or not, but I remember hearing long ago that longer motor wires can cause issues? That was what caused me to first do this the way I have it set now

[RRHandy]

I find that if the wires are one length and up the wire size one and fewer connections there is less problems, so work on the soldering skills. :Cool:

[mr.frankenjet]

+1, soldering is the best solution, Castle always recommends extending the 3 wires that lead to the motor, not the 2 leads that lead to the battery (doing this can cause issues). Keep all wires as short as possible and don't use smaller gauge wire.

[rifleman_btx]

Ah ok I knew it was one side or the other. I couldn't remember what one

[rifleman_btx]

And I couldn't stay away from it... So.... The left side control surfaces are set ready

[Dewey H Lee]

Looking sweeter all the time rifleman_btx

[Boots Whirlygig]

I'm lovin me some N-9M, I've had the 3 views saved on my phone for years. I always wanted to scratch build one. You might want to "cheat" on the first flights with a vertical fin, that way you can concentrate on the wings pitch trim, and get that dialed in. Once that's done reduce the size of the fin, until you know the split rudders are dialed in. I remember reading that somewhere, it might have been Kieth Shaw who did that when he designed and flew his amazing Horten 9, another of my favorites!
Northops wings flew, but they had deadly pitch and yaw issues. The YB-49 you'll note had 4 vertical fins, and suffered structural failure, both wings snapped off from a high speed pitch problem. :(

[doctormike]

The Hortons ABSOLUTELY refused to use vertical stabilizers, against all criticism and were succesful! Being a hard headed German ( so my wife tells me), my H-229 will have no vertical stabs...or else!:Sick2:Doc

[rifleman_btx]

All hooked up, now need to hook the escs and make the battery lead

[doctormike]

I like your split flaps! Doc

[RRHandy]

.

[mr.frankenjet]

Sweeeeet :)

[Boots Whirlygig]

Looks too cool rifleman! The link on my nose gear measures 10mm and is 4mm thick aluminum. I'm going to make a link that is 20mm, which will shorten the strut height but still allow the spring to do its job.

[rifleman_btx]

Nice I'm gonna cut mine I think. It still sits alittle too high... The little Istone stabilizer looks like it's spot on. All I gotta do now is paint and sand it and paint again. Anyone have any experience with the Istone? I don't have the auto recovery version. Just the stabilizer unit. Just hope I did well going for that one.

[Capt. Crunch]

Wow, your moving right along on your build!

Looking good!!

[Dewey H Lee]

NICE. Nothing more can be said. Good Craftmanship. Your the man Rifleman.:)

[rifleman_btx]

I wound up cutting the nose gear strut. Now it sits much better. I did rethread it. So it can be serviced if need be. :)

[rifleman_btx]

Here is the video to my drag rudder test

https://youtu.be/a008Kkds244

[OV10]

I'd be very interested in the mechanics you used on that drag rudder setup.
My mod brain is thinking of something like that for decelerons on the forthcoming FW A-10 ;)

[rifleman_btx]

Aaaaahhh very simple setup really, joining 3 pushrods with a wheel collar 2 to both control surfaces and one back to the servo. Added an easy connector to the servo arm no set screw. Leave space behind the easy connector for it to slide back when it's engaging the opposite rudder but add a brake spring from a RC nitro car to keep tension on the rudder when closed and you have a poor man's setup for a drag rudder system. :)

PS don't forget to solder the joint of the pushrods as well for extra security.