Official Freewing 90mm F-4 Phantom II Thread
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Hi guys. Great info here. Thanks for that. I have a freewing F-4 coming and I have a Spektrum NX8 radio to use. I also already have a 6s 7000mah 22.2 v 30c battery that I got for my draco. So the question is will the stock ESC for the 6s freewing phantom handle a 7000mah battery and what Spektrum receiver would you guys recommend? Thanks in advanced for Any suggestions. -
Yes, I did get a better signal after putting in the RF Chokes on my EDF's. Have them in the last few I've built, 2 F-18's, the E-Flight SU-30 (really helped that one),the A-10 and 2 F-4's. I've also added a remote satellite in all of these and seem to have a good signal now with a low amount of frame losses (typical, as long as there are less than 150 for a 5 minute flight according to Spektrum) and no Holds, which of course are the real scary ones, meaning you've lost signal at some point, it went into a hold, and then reacquired signal.Hi Paulsnapp….Just passing along my experience WRT aileron. Set them neutral and be watchful for a left bank upon takeoff.
WRT the RF chokes, I saw a NIB plane on a post the other day that had them installed….not an MRC plane. RF chokes are a cheap and easy to install potential safeguard. Use them or not…it is your risk.
Lost an F-4 once and an A-10 twice before installing them. I have not lost a bird since. And Hugh confirms better signal purity with them (frame loss reduction).
After several thousand MiG-29, F-4 and AL37 safe flights, I am going to continue to suggest them.

-GG
Where they seemed to help the most was with my "older" AR636 receivers (even with satellites) that have 1 long antennae and one short one at a 45 degree angle. Those receivers are still in my F-4's and with the chokes and satellites, I've got a good signal now. All the others have the newer AR637T's with a satellite that have 2 long diversity antennae on both RX and satellite. Spektrum claims these RX's have improved signal reception over the others and I would agree. I've yet to put the chokes on my Mig 29 (I know, flirting with disaster), but I was able to locate the new 10 channel Spektrum AS3X in a good spot with both antennae going out to the sides and the satellite in the nose. After a bunch of 5 minute flights, the frame losses have always been 30 or less, which is super good, so may not put them in there. They helped tremendously in the SU-30 where I usually had several holds :hot_face: and tons of frame losses, so switched out the RX to the 8 channel new AS3X and put chokes on and it's now good!
As GG suggests, better safe than sorry. Some of the poor signal loss may be from several sources and my better set-ups now may be a result of several things but who knows, as long as it's working!
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Sounds as good as any reason. The aileron roll on maiden is not violent....just surprising. If you are ready for anything, you'll be in good shape. Have fun...report on how the maiden goes.
Thanks - and I did install the chokes along with a better elevator servo, a stronger elevator pushrod, a stronger elevator ball link and a replacement nose gear pin that is not so brittle. The first F4 I got from Motion RC had a right wing that was not the same as the left and was angled down at the wing root. They replaced it. Somehow I think their mold process is such that some come out true and others come out with unwanted wing warps that requires the aileron offsets you are seeing. what do you think?
-GGLeave a comment:
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Thanks - and I did install the chokes along with a better elevator servo, a stronger elevator pushrod, a stronger elevator ball link and a replacement nose gear pin that is not so brittle. The first F4 I got from Motion RC had a right wing that was not the same as the left and was angled down at the wing root. They replaced it. Somehow I think their mold process is such that some come out true and others come out with unwanted wing warps that requires the aileron offsets you are seeing. what do you think?Hi Paulsnapp….Just passing along my experience WRT aileron. Set them neutral and be watchful for a left bank upon takeoff.
WRT the RF chokes, I saw a NIB plane on a post the other day that had them installed….not an MRC plane. RF chokes are a cheap and easy to install potential safeguard. Use them or not…it is your risk.
Lost an F-4 once and an A-10 twice before installing them. I have not lost a bird since. And Hugh confirms better signal purity with them (frame loss reduction).
After several thousand MiG-29, F-4 and AL37 safe flights, I am going to continue to suggest them.

-GGLeave a comment:
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Hi Paulsnapp….Just passing along my experience WRT aileron. Set them neutral and be watchful for a left bank upon takeoff.
WRT the RF chokes, I saw a NIB plane on a post the other day that had them installed….not an MRC plane. RF chokes are a cheap and easy to install potential safeguard. Use them or not…it is your risk.
Lost an F-4 once and an A-10 twice before installing them. I have not lost a bird since. And Hugh confirms better signal purity with them (frame loss reduction).
After several thousand MiG-29, F-4 and AL37 safe flights, I am going to continue to suggest them.

-GGLeave a comment:
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Looking back at pictures of mine it doesn't have any trim like that either...
I agree 100% with his statement to use better elevator pushrod/ linkage and possibly better elevator servo mounting or better servo.
I disagree with no flap take off, I typically use half on take off and half or full landing.
I still chuckle every time I see GG talk about chokes... :)Leave a comment:
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With regards to GliderGuys tip:
Some tips:
- Every one I have flown takes some right aileron trim right out of the box. See photo below. I have owned 3 F-4s….all needed this! Fail to start with this trim and you will be surprised by a hard left roll after lift-off….not fun.
I am curious if anyone else has seen this with their Phantom. Our club has two of these Phantoms and neither required the aileron offset as suggested. I have watched several Utubes and all of them show the ailerons level with the trailing edges. Just curious as I am close to a maiden on mine. Thanks!Leave a comment:
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If you have EDF jet time, the F-4 is not much different. Next to the MiG-29, the F-4 is my favorite EDF. Nothing beats an F-4 for brute looks!
Some tips:
- Every one I have flown takes some right aileron trim right out of the box. See photo below. I have owned 3 F-4s….all needed this! Fail to start with this trim and you will be surprised by a hard left roll after lift-off….not fun.
- Buy some spare nose gear pins…they are brittle metal.
- CG and throws by the book are fine to start with.
- Elevator and flap mix BY THE BOOK.
- Flight times are relatively short…6000 mAh = about 3 min. throttle setting depending.
- Use pattern discipline….Here is what I do: 1/2 throttle on down wind then 4-5 clicks lower on base then adjust on final as needed to maintain glide slope. Typically this means 2-3 clicks lower on final. Ease the throttle to cut-off once in ground effect touching down slightly nose high. Careful not to hit nose gear first.
- If you rapidly cut power on final, the nose will drop…so make changes smoothly.
- Embed some wire or hardwood or carbon into the bottom surface of the under nose radome. If the nose gear pin snaps, the skid surface saves the radome.
- No flaps on takeoff, full flaps on downwind to landing.
- READ / SEARCH Hobby Squawk for RF Chokes, Ferrite Chokes and learn! USE THEM!!!! (Amazon has them). I lost an A-10 and an F-4 due to radio glitches before I started using them. No crashes since I started using them….due to radio glitches. HIGH CURRENT ESCs splay out a lot of RF noise and can trip up your receiver = crash.
- See the post above….replace your elevator hardware!!! Stock stuff is too weak. I lost an F-4 due to breakage.
- Consider upgrading the elevator servo. Stock is fine, but a higher quality servo adds peace of mind. I crashed an F-4 when a stock servo failed (repaired and still flying). Hard to beat the MKS HV-69 high torque servo. Upgrading costs $$, but you sleep better. But I fly a lot, so probably wore the stock servo out. LOL. The HV-69 is smaller in size, so some fill work will be needed to the stock mounting cavity.
- She doesn’t have any bad habits.
-GG
GliderGuy - Thank you so much for the pro-tips - I appreciate it and copied it along with the pic for ref... again, thank you!!!
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Hugh Wiedman - thank you so much for the very excellent advice. I'm just getting back on since I posted that last one and see your feedback. again, thank you - very good advice...
Not so sure you'll need to buy an F-4 E-flight trainer, especially if you already have 10 Freewing jets. The Stinger 90 was my first EDF, and then I immediately went to the F-4. And I'm basically an average pilot so you should be able to handle it. Obviously take off and fly around shouldn't be a problem, just mastering the landing. If you line up the runway, bring it in around 25% throttle to about 2 feet off the ground, drop the throttle to 10% and let it slow down and flare, you should be fine. I basically feel the F-4 is just as easy to fly/land as the Stinger 90. The only thing to watch for is getting too slow and dropping like a rock on the runway (as it doesn't "float" as much as say the Avanti).Leave a comment:
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Guys, mix yourselves a Rusty Nail ( whisky and Drambuie 50/50) and put this on your biggest screen,sit back and enjoy !!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mzv1bsDi6V8 (You Tube... "Mix F4 Phantom Forever" if link doesn't work)
:punch::f4:
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edge_pilot If you'll send me a PM here at the Squawk, I will try to send you a PDF (it is a large file) of the Decal Sheet I used and some reference photos of my build. Otherwise I would need to send via your email account. As I wrote it is a large file. Best, LBLeave a comment:
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EP, Are you building an Air Force or Navy variant? Though most would be similar. I used the Nomenclature from Callie and got about 90% of the 'little boogers' located using a decal sheet as reference. Best, LB
6 PhotosLeave a comment:
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how do you get the correct placement for all the nomenclature decals?? I have searched the internet for detailed photos and found nothing that would help. Bought the decals from Callie but have no clue where the 1000 little decals go.Leave a comment:
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"Nothing beats an F-4 for brute looks!" Couldn't have put it better myself (and I'm good
) :punch::f4:
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Not so sure you'll need to buy an F-4 E-flight trainer, especially if you already have 10 Freewing jets. The Stinger 90 was my first EDF, and then I immediately went to the F-4. And I'm basically an average pilot so you should be able to handle it. Obviously take off and fly around shouldn't be a problem, just mastering the landing. If you line up the runway, bring it in around 25% throttle to about 2 feet off the ground, drop the throttle to 10% and let it slow down and flare, you should be fine. I basically feel the F-4 is just as easy to fly/land as the Stinger 90. The only thing to watch for is getting too slow and dropping like a rock on the runway (as it doesn't "float" as much as say the Avanti).Leave a comment:
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If you have EDF jet time, the F-4 is not much different. Next to the MiG-29, the F-4 is my favorite EDF. Nothing beats an F-4 for brute looks!
Some tips:
- Every one I have flown takes some right aileron trim right out of the box. See photo below. I have owned 3 F-4s….all needed this! Fail to start with this trim and you will be surprised by a hard left roll after lift-off….not fun.
- Buy some spare nose gear pins…they are brittle metal.
- CG and throws by the book are fine to start with.
- Elevator and flap mix BY THE BOOK.
- Flight times are relatively short…6000 mAh = about 3 min. throttle setting depending.
- Use pattern discipline….Here is what I do: 1/2 throttle on down wind then 4-5 clicks lower on base then adjust on final as needed to maintain glide slope. Typically this means 2-3 clicks lower on final. Ease the throttle to cut-off once in ground effect touching down slightly nose high. Careful not to hit nose gear first.
- If you rapidly cut power on final, the nose will drop…so make changes smoothly.
- Embed some wire or hardwood or carbon into the bottom surface of the under nose radome. If the nose gear pin snaps, the skid surface saves the radome.
- No flaps on takeoff, full flaps on downwind to landing.
- READ / SEARCH Hobby Squawk for RF Chokes, Ferrite Chokes and learn! USE THEM!!!! (Amazon has them). I lost an A-10 and an F-4 due to radio glitches before I started using them. No crashes since I started using them….due to radio glitches. HIGH CURRENT ESCs splay out a lot of RF noise and can trip up your receiver = crash.
- See the post above….replace your elevator hardware!!! Stock stuff is too weak. I lost an F-4 due to breakage.
- Consider upgrading the elevator servo. Stock is fine, but a higher quality servo adds peace of mind. I crashed an F-4 when a stock servo failed (repaired and still flying). Hard to beat the MKS HV-69 high torque servo. Upgrading costs $$, but you sleep better. But I fly a lot, so probably wore the stock servo out. LOL. The HV-69 is smaller in size, so some fill work will be needed to the stock mounting cavity.
- She doesn’t have any bad habits.
-GG
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This may be an odd request and I already have 10 or more Freewing jets, but if anyone has or know someone that has the Eflite F4 and would be willing to sell it, please pm me. I’d like to learn on that before I put up my new Freewing F4… thanks in advance…Leave a comment:
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I fly the F-4 with the high torque MKS HV-69. It is smaller in size, so some fill-in mount is required. It is compatible with my Futaba gear.
I also use this same servo on my MiG-29 and P-38.
Also, get some 4-40 threaded rod and heavy duty DuBro hardware to put on it. The tiny plastic stock stuff has been known to break. I lost an F-4 once when the plastic ball fitting broke at the elevator ball.
-GGLeave a comment:
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Would you know what a good futaba servo would work for elevator? thanksLeave a comment:
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Beautiful Birds Hugh!Leave a comment:


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