Official Freewing 90mm F-4 Phantom II Thread

[locharrow]

" the 2 wire plugged directly into the Rx throttle.." In my book on a non bec esc the throttle needs + & - plus signal wire ............Rx power needs only + & - from 5-8v supply. You doing simple calib. with throttle or with cal card.? Try a servo in your throttle channel and if that works your narrowing the error field.

Anyway, don't do what I did and :face_with_symbols_oup an RX8,two tail servos, two retract servos and an sbus by trying to supply power to an Rx through a twin bec output !

Also, on a Friday night I consume rather a large amount of cab sauv and cannot be trusted ...( right J )

[billd3]

I am recently having a bind problem with my Freewing 90mm F-4 jet (ix20 Tx). Everything was fine until I installed a new esc and motor. Now when I bind the bind takes (according to the TX) and then it starts a very rapid beeping that never quits until I unplug the battery. All the servos work except the throttle…I thought the problem might be in the Esc or the way it’s plugged into the Rx but I can’t seem to solve it. The new ESC is a Freewing 130amp. The BEC is not built-in but soldered to the battery connection cable on the ESC. There are 2 cables for connection to the Rx…a standard looking 3 wire servo connector labeled throttle, plus a 2 wire connection wound around a circular RF filter. I have the regular 3 wire plugged into the throttle slot on the receiver buss in the plane and the 2 wire plugged directly into the Rx throttle (I’ve switched them around with “no joy”).

I’ve gone through the ESC calibration procedure but it doesn’t seem to work…This is the 1^st time I’ve used a TX with a digital throttle trim and a throttle cut programmed into Switch “H” on the ix20. I’ve also tried to toggle “H”, but “no joy”.
???
Bill

[locharrow]

Had to contend with longer grass the past few afternoons, It's too dark in the evening for footballers so grass is not cut so often. Take off run is noticeably longer and lift off getting precariously close to a ball ditch. So...... I plucked up courage and bought the FMS 90mm. Almost feel like a traitor after the great performance of the Freewing 90mm...but.....had it out for cleaning and noticed quite a bit of wear on the blade where they join the hub, it looks as if the blades had been sanded to take the sharp edges off ! That may be the real cause of the longer run. New fan might help so I'll give that a try as well. :punch::f4:

[locharrow]

" I would give it a thumbs up if you order direct and save $50 from the US vendors."

Too right,.........I needed a nose cone for the SU and Motion R/C Europe wanted £10 plus £25 P&P . Free Flight Store in China wanted £7 plus £3.50 ! ........Guess where I bought it? That and a LOT of other stuff. If waiting two or three weeks is OK the price is the deciding factor. They are the same products at prices way below UK and EU suppliers.:punch::f4:

[pullupnow]

[QUOTE=locharrow;n326172]Anyone running an FMS 90mm 12 blade in their F4? I like the 70mm ones I put in my SU 35 so might try one in the new F4 if anyone has good things to say about them !! :punch::f4:[/QUOTEyes sir, I recently replaced the gen 1 9 blade outrunner with the FMS 12 blade inrunner. It required some foam carving to get it to fit as the fan shroud is a bit larger than the freewing oem. As far as performance It was a noticeable increase in low end acceleration, much better mid throttle cruising speed and not much difference in top speed.
I ordered it directly from FMS and it came in about three weeks via china post, only $105 shipped. (worth the wait) my biggest complaint was that I had to solder extentions to the motor leads as the factory ones were too short to mate properly with the freewing stock esc. Flight times did not change too much. I would give it a thumbs up if you order direct and save $50 from the US vendors.

[locharrow]

"Was so happy with the results, I put the same setup in my F-4 right out of the box."

That says a lot ! My first FMS was an 80mm Hawk and it delivered excellent performance all round. So does the 90mm F/wing though. I don't race the F4 around the sky like it was a race course so manage 3 1/2 minutes with enough left for a couple of go arounds if required. That said, just for comparisons sake I might just stick an FMS 90mm in the new beast :punch::f4:


Might just get out with it today if this :face_with_symbols_o wind drops a bit! !!

[Phantom]

Anyone running an FMS 90mm 12 blade in their F4? I like the 70mm ones I put in my SU 35 so might try one in the new F4 if anyone has good things to say about them !! :punch::f4:

I upgraded my FW F-4 right out of the box when I built her, due to the lack luster performance I experienced with my FW 90mm F-16 in stock trim. So I cannot compare the stock version with the re-powered FMS version. I just know that the F-4 also came in an 8s option and to me that's a red flag telling me that the 6s will probably have anemic performance. At the time I upgraded, the FW 90mm 4068-1835 6s was out of stock, already having the FMS 80mm in my F-86 and being very happy with both the additional thrust and flight time endurance I naturally grabbed the 90mm FMS. This was the second upgrade for my 90mm F-16 as I'd previously used the 8s 90mm setup from FW to give her more pep. I didn't care for her heavier flight characteristics and decreased vertical as an 8s bird, which motivated me to upgrade yet again for the FMS 90MM 6s setup. Was so happy with the results, I put the same setup in my F-4 right out of the box.

Folks seem to really like the umph available from the FW 4068-1835 6s, but one characteristic seems to pop up in everyone's take on it, and that is shorter flight times due to its thirsty nature. The FMS setups, in my experience increase thrust and efficiency resulting in longer flights. Too me, flight duration is just as important from a performance standpoint as power.

[Hugh Wiedman]

Hugh I'm looking at the stats for the FMS and it might have the edge on the Freewing...... 1850kv --- to 1835 kv 4000gm thrust to 3900gm thrust........:speak_no_evil:

You're probably right, I saw those stats as well but I already had the Freewing in my F-16 and was more than happy with it so that's what I put in the F-18's and F-4's. Better to dance with the devil I knew rather than the devil I didn't. And I was fairly confident I wouldn't know the difference with the FMS fans and an extra 2.5% of thrust anyway. Rarely at full throttle except at take-off. I will say the FMS fans I put in the SU-30 were outstanding and completely transformed that bird from the gerbil wheels it came with, so convinced their fans are more than up to the task as well. Either one will put the F-4 "over the top".

[locharrow]

I will be upgrading my older F-4 that has the 90mm Outrunner with the Freewing 4068-1835 Inrunner 12 Blade within the next couple of weeks. It is on my "to do list." Out of all of my EDF's, my F-4 is my favorite Jet. Some of the reviews on the Motion website have been very good regarding this upgrade.

That's what I am running in my current F4...nothing wrong with it at all but the two 70mm FMS fans REALLY outclassed the Dr Mad Thrust fans I changed out in the SU 35:punch::f4:


Hugh I'm looking at the stats for the FMS and it might have the edge on the Freewing...... 1850kv --- to 1835 kv 4000gm thrust to 3900gm thrust........:speak_no_evil:

[Hugh Wiedman]

I will be upgrading my older F-4 that has the 90mm Outrunner with the Freewing 4068-1835 Inrunner 12 Blade within the next couple of weeks. It is on my "to do list." Out of all of my EDF's, my F-4 is my favorite Jet. Some of the reviews on the Motion website have been very good regarding this upgrade.

I put the 12 blade inrunner in both my F-4's that originally came with that 1650 Kv outrunner. The increased performance was outstanding and as much as I enjoyed it with the outrunners, it flies awesome with that 12 blade inrunner. Unlimited vertical and gives me over 4 minutes on an SMC 6200. Take off on grass is less than 70 feet. IMO, well worth the upgrade despite the hefty price. I've installed the 12 blade inrunner in both my F-18's and F-16 as well as it's now my EDF of choice.

[Dwalkerp47]

Anyone running an FMS 90mm 12 blade in their F4? I like the 70mm ones I put in my SU 35 so might try one in the new F4 if anyone has good things to say about them !! :punch::f4:

I will be upgrading my older F-4 that has the 90mm Outrunner with the Freewing 4068-1835 Inrunner 12 Blade within the next couple of weeks. It is on my "to do list." Out of all of my EDF's, my F-4 is my favorite Jet. Some of the reviews on the Motion website have been very good regarding this upgrade.

[locharrow]

Anyone running an FMS 90mm 12 blade in their F4? I like the 70mm ones I put in my SU 35 so might try one in the new F4 if anyone has good things to say about them !! :punch::f4:

[GliderGuy]

Hi Locharrow, Glad she’s going again.
If you do experience a loss of control event in the future, the chokes might be a consideration for any follow-on bird with a high-current ESC.

-GG

[locharrow]

GG... just have a wee choke round the ESC - Rx lead.

I put a deep V cut along the crack in the wing, roughed it out and filled it with dry brown rice mixed with 1/2 hr epoxy, tamped mix into the V, let it dry, sanded, coat of fine filler paste,sanded again and primed. Works a treat....Didn't paint it as might re-do the whole plane. Flew it again this afternoon ...no problems at all. I'm beginning to think there was fairly stiff turbulent breeze above the trees in the park even although it appeared fairly calm at ground level. :punch::f4:

[GliderGuy]

Nose gear was holding up OK...... till this afternoon! :face_with_symbols_o Fresh cut grass, no dogs or footballers so good to go. Got up, gear up, flaps up, gyro on...all the auto take off things done. I noticed the plane tipping on way then the other which in calm conditions ain't good. I then felt the plane slow to react to input so decided to do a circuit and come in but there was no way it was willing to do what it was told so I did a down wind dump while I had the chance. Bent nose gear pin, doors bust and cracked wing where the mains leg took the brunt of the dump. Fortunately all fixable but it makes powering up the new one more and more appealing !!! :rolling_eyes: :punch::f4:

Are you using RF Chokes? The time I had an A-10 and F-4 do this, I added chokes to the next/new replacements. Since I added chokes, no more loss of control issues.

Search on RF chokes or chokes and read the posts.

-GG

[locharrow]

Nose gear was holding up OK...... till this afternoon! :face_with_symbols_o Fresh cut grass, no dogs or footballers so good to go. Got up, gear up, flaps up, gyro on...all the auto take off things done. I noticed the plane tipping on way then the other which in calm conditions ain't good. I then felt the plane slow to react to input so decided to do a circuit and come in but there was no way it was willing to do what it was told so I did a down wind dump while I had the chance. Bent nose gear pin, doors bust and cracked wing where the mains leg took the brunt of the dump. Fortunately all fixable but it makes powering up the new one more and more appealing !!! :rolling_eyes: :punch::f4:

[locharrow]

All points taken but the superglue pad I put on the running bar switch tag has worked great and is still going strong. Time will tell. Went out today but :face_with_symbols_o dog "instructor" with sucker clients in tow screwed it up !! :punch::f4:

[GliderGuy]

Good deal…my concerns are:
Lead is soft and may deform and allow the play to return. And, super glue easily fractures.

Might eventually need to use a different metal and a flexible adhesive like foam tac or Gorilla glue.

-GG

[locharrow]

Assuming the play is fore/aft play along the retract axis…you can disassemble the retract servo and remove the large silver rotating part. Then solder a thin washer to the side that hits the plastic body when in the gear down position. This thin washer will fill the gap and the play will be greatly reduced or eliminated. Use a washer that has the diameter of the width of the rotating body.

Reassemble the unit and check for proper operation.

-GG

The play was caused by a gap between the fulcrum and the running bar flat top. Not having a solder gun I tried hammering a strip of lead really thin and cut it roughly to the size of the running bar flat top and super glued it on. I trimmed it to the bar shape and did a few up and down tests. Had to trim it again as it sounded very painful but after another wee shave or two it worked great.

Have it installed and it's rock solid. !! The weather is still great so it's all good to go ! :punch::f4:

[locharrow]

"Get her something special, too."

She's got me !