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Official Freewing 70mm Yak-130 Thread

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  • Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    Colors go back to the Futaba and JR days where Futaba were red black and white and JR were orange brown yellow and they went different directions.
    Martinyak
    Yep, when you buy servo extension leads the red white and black are often described as futaba type and the yellow, red and brown as JR type.. If you look at the male and female sockets one side has square corners, t`other side has chamfered corners so if you are struggling to push one into the other the chances are you got it the wrong way round !!!

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    • Let's try to clarify a little in regards to wire colors and the JR/Futaba thing.
      The JR/Futaba thing injects another level of needed clarification: This is primarily to do with the connector ends and not so much to do with wire color. Futaba female connectors have an extra ridge (or tab) of material on one side (signal side) of the connector. The Futaba male connector then has to have the space to accommodate this tab. In doing so, it's nearly impossible to connect these the wrong way (polarity). It is entirely possible to shave off this tab on servos with Futaba leads so they fit into JR type fittings - ie, most non Futaba RXs and extensions. Most of the planes we buy (Freewing/Flightline, Eflite, FMS) use the JR type on their servo ends. However, this is not the topic that we've been trying to clarify in the above posts.
      Servo wire colors .................................... Any given manufacturer of planes will differentiate between a "standard" servo and a "reversed" servo by using different colors of wires for one. Eg, Freewing and FMS uses "white/red/black" for their "reversed" servos and "orange/red/brown" for their "standard" servos. Then you get to Eflite planes (which for many, are FMS products) and they do the opposite - W/R/B for standard and O/R/B for reversed. I'm sure there are other variations on this theme with other manufacturers. Nevertheless, the wire color for servos is a way for a given maker to distinguish between their standard and reversed servos.
      Now, to what was being asked when this first came up is regarding wire colors and polarity for JR type servos leads.................... ground wire is almost always black or brown. Proper connection is always ground to ground regardless of whether the ground wire is black or brown. It IS possible to connect these things with the wrong polarity but in most cases, it is a little harder to push them together (and has nothing to do with the Futaba tab).
      BTW....... When we talk about "extension" cables, that becomes yet another level of clarification. These also become a manufacturer specific identifier and is NOT necessarily related to JR or Futaba of today or standard or reversed servos of today.
      You can easily see for yourself by going to MotionRC, Horizon Hobby or HobbyKing and look up all the different kinds of servos they sell and see the difference between a standard and reversed servo and also the difference between JR and Futaba types.

      Comment


      • Hello, this might be a stupid question for some or all of you. But I am curious about your thoughts. How does the yak in comparison to the Mirage 2000? Is the Mirage generally the better plane? Or can one not compare them at all because they are too different?

        One thing i know for sure: the Mirage is faster. Much faster.

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        • Originally posted by Martinyak View Post
          Hello, this might be a stupid question for some or all of you. But I am curious about your thoughts. How does the yak in comparison to the Mirage 2000? Is the Mirage generally the better plane? Or can one not compare them at all because they are too different?
          I think it best I leave the detailed answers to those who fly both, I have the Yak 130 70mm which is easy to fly, I dont have the Mirage but I am pretty sure its a different animal altogether. In terms of skill level I am also pretty sure the Yak is a lot easier to fly.

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          • I've had the FW Yak 130, 70mm (and currently the FW Yak 130, 90mm on 8s) and currently have the Mirage 2000 (latest version) on floats for winter flying. However, I've had the first version of the Mirage (less powerful) that I flew off the retracts and also as a hand launcher. Both fly well but the Mirage (either iteration) is fast and twitchy and is harder to dial down even with lower rates and high expo. It rolls like a drill bit if the rates are not low enough and even then, it wants to roll. It flies much better with a gyro with optimized gain. Of the two, the Mirage tends to land smoother on its wheels.
            The little Yak, on the other hand, is very stable and although I can't say that's it's exactly "slow", its speed is more manageable in that there isn't such a fine line between too low and too high of rates. The Yak can be a bouncy lander on its wheels, even with upgraded trailing links on the mains. I find it lands beautifully on it's belly on the grass.
            I have the Mirage "Tiger Meet" version at present but that big tiger decal tends to be non-distinct at speed and once it gets a couple hundred feet away. The Yak, though, with its bright red paint, is very easy to track even far out. My preference is for the Yak (that's why I got the big one). If they ever made a big Mirage, I would pass on it.
            Having said all that, these two planes are different birds altogether and anything said about either one is personal. If you like them both, eventually, you'll have them both.

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            • Well said... I've had three Mirages from the first slower one to the newer inrunner and even one on 8S. I've had two Yaks and a spare in a box incase and they have been on a XRP/2200 set up for a bit more power. Love them both...

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              • I can't even imagine a Mirage on 8s. My old eyes and reflexes wouldn't be able to cope. No falling asleep flying that one.

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                • Hello everyone with a YaK130,

                  Made three flights this morning with my new YaK. The plane flies well though I have noticed a wing tip dance at the tip at a higher speeds. This to me appears to be aileron flutter of which I have true life experience in an experimental I built. Just like the real thing pulling the power back made it go away. Question: has anyone else experienced this. BTW I’ve looked through as many posts as I cared for and couldn’t find anything, however, an internet search pulled up videos of exactly what I had.

                  Rich

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                  • Originally posted by jetpltrich View Post
                    Hello everyone with a YaK130,

                    Made three flights this morning with my new YaK. The plane flies well though I have noticed a wing tip dance at the tip at a higher speeds. This to me appears to be aileron flutter of which I have true life experience in an experimental I built. Just like the real thing pulling the power back made it go away. Question: has anyone else experienced this. BTW I’ve looked through as many posts as I cared for and couldn’t find anything, however, an internet search pulled up videos of exactly what I had.

                    Rich
                    Are you using a gyro? What you described is typical of too much gyro gain on the roll axis. If you aren't using a gyro, perhaps using one will cure the wingtip "dance". Just keep the gain low (<30%).
                    No, I have not experienced this with or without a gyro unless the gain is too high.

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                    • Are you using a gyro? What you described is typical of too much gyro gain on the roll axis. If you aren't using a gyro, perhaps using one will cure the wingtip "dance". Just keep the gain low (<30%).
                      No, I have not experienced this with or without a gyro unless the gain is too high.
                      Yes I am using a gyro. I suspected the gyro, however, with the search I was thinking no. It is set at 50% gain right now but will set at 30% and test that.

                      Thanks, Rich

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                      • Originally posted by jetpltrich View Post

                        Yes I am using a gyro. I suspected the gyro, however, with the search I was thinking no. It is set at 50% gain right now but will set at 30% and test that.

                        Thanks, Rich
                        You should mention these things. 50% gain on most external gyros is way too much, especially on jets. Internal gyros like on the Spektrum AS3X receivers, you might get away with 50%, but barely.

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                        • I agree it sounds like gyro... Also this plane does have a pronounced tail wag, especially when it's windy.

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                          • Originally posted by Evan D View Post
                            I agree it sounds like gyro... Also this plane does have a pronounced tail wag, especially when it's windy.
                            I found moving the cg forward a bit helped with the tail wag, I dont use gyros. It can be more pronounced on a windier day but I dont think the large vertical stabilizer and short body and rear moment arm help either. I tend to fly this model on the calmer days and keep the speed up when flying crosswind

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                            • Appreciate the info on the gyro gain. Two flights today on a super smooth day and no wingtip waggle.

                              Rich

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                              • Super smooth this afternoon so I flew the YaK. Stayed in the pattern and made one takeoff with 7 touch and goes with one full stop. Left the gear down and flaps full and man this little airplane is rock solid. Turning base to final reminds me of my fellow airman turn final on the ship... nose high power up, awesome. Started with a full battery and when done I was only at 60%. Super cool little plane!

                                Rich

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                                • Has anyone changed out the easily bendable gear with stronger wire?

                                  Rich

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                                  • Originally posted by jetpltrich View Post
                                    Has anyone changed out the easily bendable gear with stronger wire?

                                    Rich
                                    RC Castle used to sell an optional trailing link gear set but those were hard to lock down. They kept turning out of alignment and caused jamming when retracting. They are no longer available.
                                    I put on the trailing links to help with the bouncy landings but doing a belly landing on the grass was a far better solution.

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                                    • The link gear are nice, if you put the time into them. I cut the wire and bolted them on with the 4 set screws. It came loose instantly. I tried to glue them in with the setscrews. Locktite alone was no good either. If you take the time to notch the wire gear it should stay in place.

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                                      • I lied. They are trash. Mine keep getting jammed and dont come out. Its a clearance issue with the retract.

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                                        • Video
                                          The gear are just to fat for the retract and they get stuck.

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