After some time with a new one of these, I am very happy with it. It took some time but got the aircraft to handle nicely for me. Took a lot out of the throws. Very fun aircraft.
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Official Freewing 70mm Yak-130 Thread
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Have my friend Terry fly it and he'll have it off first landing!
Seems they put little glue on them, a gentle pry and pull should get it off.
Originally posted by Shadow View PostI just bought one of these used... a little damage on the nose cone so I was going to replace it. Whatbis the best way to remove the glue so a new nose cone can be fit properly? Same goes for the vertical stabilizer, a few nicks there so I may replace.
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Has anyone tried to fit the updated FMS Yak 130 v2 landing gear on the FW Yak 130? I trashed the wings and fuselage on the FMS and was considering the replacing it with the FW Yak instead. The landing gear is in decent shape so I might keep them if it will fit in the FW
*Update* I was able to find an answer. The retract motors have different mount patterns. Sounds like the best option is to cut down the stock gear and use it as the pin for the FMS retracts.
I am not sure which version of the plane is faster in the stock setup but I know prefer MotionRC over HH. I have a couple of other projects to work on at the moment. Will provide updates at some point this year if I order a new airframe.
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Need some Help with the elevator and rudder deflection setup.
As per the book the deflection on the elevator and rudder is to be measured on the smallest section of the control surfaces. I cannot get to the mentioned numbers even with 125% rates. but its right on if I Measure it at the Widest section of the control surface.
Should I Ignore the Images in the book and set it up the throws measuring at the widest section of the elevator and rudder ?
Any suggestions for a good starting point for expos ?
Thanks
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Originally posted by aamz13 View PostNeed some Help with the elevator and rudder deflection setup.
As per the book the deflection on the elevator and rudder is to be measured on the smallest section of the control surfaces. I cannot get to the mentioned numbers even with 125% rates. but its right on if I Measure it at the Widest section of the control surface.
Should I Ignore the Images in the book and set it up the throws measuring at the widest section of the elevator and rudder ?
Any suggestions for a good starting point for expos ?
2. The plane will never need full deflection. This thing will roll like a corkscrew on much less than max throw. It'll also do loops tighter than you dare (stall) on max throw on ELE - no need for that much. Same for rudder. You'll never need to yaw that severely, even in a really bad crosswind. Even for ground steering, max throw will likely tip it over in a tight turn.
3. Expo is a personal preference. What works for others may not work for you. Start low and work up (or not). 0%, 10%, 15% .......................... 50%. I've known guys who have dialed in 100% while others don't use it at all.
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Originally posted by xviper View Post1. Ignore where it shows you to measure from in the pictures. Those are only for reference. Measure from the biggest (widest) part of the control surface.
2. The plane will never need full deflection. This thing will roll like a corkscrew on much less than max throw. It'll also do loops tighter than you dare (stall) on max throw on ELE - no need for that much. Same for rudder. You'll never need to yaw that severely, even in a really bad crosswind. Even for ground steering, max throw will likely tip it over in a tight turn.
3. Expo is a personal preference. What works for others may not work for you. Start low and work up (or not). 0%, 10%, 15% .......................... 50%. I've known guys who have dialed in 100% while others don't use it at all.
On expos I will start where I left my eflite viper Hopefully Maiden soon.
Thanks again
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Originally posted by aamz13 View Post
Perfect, I have deflections set as per the widest section.
On expos I will start where I left my eflite viper Hopefully Maiden soon.
Thanks again
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Originally posted by xviper View PostGood start. Does your Eflite Viper have "SAFE select"? If it does, the AS3X makes it fly very stable and tends to numb the sticks even more and you have a safety net. Even without SAFE select, the Viper tends to be a more stable platform. This Yak can be very twitchy, so maybe start on mid-rates. A simple gyro like the HobbyEagle A3-L can be very helpful and make for a more pleasant experience and one that resembles the Viper.
I di install aftermarket Suspension struts. I hope they will help in taking off from the grass runway. I have a feeling this will be a fast landing airframe
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On full throws this aircraft is difficult to fly. My high setting are their low settings and I am at 50 for expo. I also tried the landing gear from the fms and they kept on getting jammed. Not letting the wheels down. Make sure there is some clearance Between the strut and retract. Mine has none so when the legs get folded in they get stuck. Hope you enjoy you flight.
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Originally posted by aamz13 View Post
I have the viper it bound only in AS3X no safe. I did install a gyro, Nx3 Evo, The plan is to take off with the stabilization off and verify the gains are good in flight. I do like the ability to adjust the gains on the HobbyEagle gyro But the NX3 does not offer that.
I di install aftermarket Suspension struts. I hope they will help in taking off from the grass runway. I have a feeling this will be a fast landing airframe
The NX3 Evo looks an awful lot like the HobbyEagle. It even has master gain that you can put on a rotary knob. Turn the knob to OFF and when it the air and trimmed, start turning the knob till it begins to oscillation, then back off a bit. Try to fly to max speed as it oscillates more at higher speeds.
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Originally posted by xviper View PostSo, you don't use SAFE on your Viper? It's a handy emergency feature that you put on a switch that you don't have to use. I also installed trailing links on my old Yak but even with those, it was hard to not bounce on landing. I took off with the gear down but belly landed it on grass for the best results. I put clear Gorilla tape all over the bottom of the plane.
The NX3 Evo looks an awful lot like the HobbyEagle. It even has master gain that you can put on a rotary knob. Turn the knob to OFF and when it the air and trimmed, start turning the knob till it begins to oscillation, then back off a bit. Try to fly to max speed as it oscillates more at higher speeds.
I did put the gain on a 3 position switch for the Yak, I should move it to a knob that will be more handy. Good to know more about the landings. Big Grass runway will be the place to start and taping the belly is a good Idea if I am in a pinch after multiple go arounds and have to land.
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aamz 13 I dont use gyro but found that a cg of 70mm ( gear up ) helps reduce wing rock/yaw and is better than the 80mm back cg. The video above in post 154 shows flight with 2700 6s 40c battery at this cg, no gyro. Most of the flight is at half throttle, the faster you go the less wing rock you get. Flight time 3.5mins lipo 35% left. 3300mah 40c gives me 4 minutes of mixed flying
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Finally got around to maiden it on the 4th of July weekend. Its a beauty to fly. Key is to keep it close as it gets too far out pretty quick. Snappy and fun to play around with. I enjoyed tossing it around and getting in and out of vertical stalls. got the perfect CG as per the book with 4000MAH 6S Admiral Packs. I did end up gutting out the pilots to get the CG. The CNC suspensions are great. the do have a tendency to collapse completely sending the plane in to a shape turn. I might end up beefing the springs inside. to address the issue. No issues if I keep tracking straight after landing.
the landings were pretty basic and uneventful. I was surprised on how slow I can bring it in and gently set it down. its tiny but can easily handle a lot of wind. does get tossed around a but but punches through most of it.
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Well meh.
After losing my beloved FMS Yak 130, I thought I'd save some money and get the Freewing ARF as a replacement and transfer the power system.
Everything arrived fine and I opened the box to discover that the Freewing plane has absolute crap wire gear as compared to the FMS. I mean disappointingly bad in comparison.
I tried swapping the gear but the geometry, pin size and retract size all prevent swapping the gear.
So Im bummed and a little shocked that the Freewing version was never updated like the FMS Yak was.
Anyway, what's done is done and I'll finish and fly the Freewing Yak, but when it goes I'm honestly going to have to replace it with the FMS one. The difference in the gear and how the plane performs on the trailing link gear from FMS is that much better
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Originally posted by Gilatrout View PostWell meh.
After losing my beloved FMS Yak 130, I thought I'd save some money and get the Freewing ARF as a replacement and transfer the power system.
Everything arrived fine and I opened the box to discover that the Freewing plane has absolute crap wire gear as compared to the FMS. I mean disappointingly bad in comparison.
I tried swapping the gear but the geometry, pin size and retract size all prevent swapping the gear.
So Im bummed and a little shocked that the Freewing version was never updated like the FMS Yak was.
Anyway, what's done is done and I'll finish and fly the Freewing Yak, but when it goes I'm honestly going to have to replace it with the FMS one. The difference in the gear and how the plane performs on the trailing link gear from FMS is that much better
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