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All-New Freewing PJ50 Twin 70mm EDF Jet - Official Thread
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If you are interested, here are my initial impressions of the PJ50 after 2 outings (30 flights total). Today was 10 mph gusting to about 15 mph when thermals passed by. I am at the CG mark on the wings right now. Moving the CG back will alter my comments below, no doubt. The below is with NO GYRO. Throws are by the book.
Executive Summary = I love it!
Random comments:- Wow and double wow!....now to be more specific:
- The landing gear shock system is well tuned. A couple of times today a gust hit her just before touchdown...she didn't bounce after smacking the runway. The springs absorbed the energy w/o throwing her back into the air. I am impressed!!!!!!
- Sooooo easy to land, but watch out. This is a low drag design. She will float forever, if you come in hot.
- I settled on about 30% throttle on downwind, 15% on base leg, then reducing to maybe 5% to near touchdown...chopping the power totally when about 5 or 6 feet up. If you leave much power on, she will go forever before touchdown. Reverse thrust will be helpful on short fields. If your field is short…consider adding this!
- She has the lightest wing loading of any bird I have. A gust can easily blow her back into the air after touchdown. Keep flying her until she SLOWS a lot. Be ready to find yourself back in the air after touchdown when there are wind gusts. Don't look away until you are SLOW.
- Crosswind landings require a lot of upwind aileron after touchdown, or she'll lift the upwind wing easily. During approach in a crosswind, she's a piece of cake.
- She is sooooo darn fast, and she has a high thrust to weight ratio. Fly by at 1/2 power then point the nose straight up and go to full power.....she doesn't stop until she's very high up*. Amazing! A 60 to 70 degree climb never ends*.
- I flew around mostly at 1/2 power unless doing speed runs and acro. 4 min 30 seconds of mixed flying used only about 3200 mAh. With careful throttle management, 5 to 6 min flights on a 6000 mAh battery will be attainable.
- Everything runs cooler than the AL37. The BEC and ESCs "seem" to be cooler to the touch. I have a hand-held fan that I blow over the AL37 BEC and ESCs after a flight. This bird does not seem to need this...even after many flights in a row as fast as I could get her back into the air. Likely there is better through the body air flow for cooling.
- Flight characteristics; On low rate, she rolls nearly as fast as my F-4...she has very high roll rate. Slow down / chop power / pull the stick back....she just happily mushes along like the A-10 does. A gust might cause her to drop a wing, but otherwise....she's a kitty cat at slow speeds. At book throws, I could not get her to snap roll or spin. I almost got a true spin turn outa her...I think. But she self recovered quickly. I will work on it more, but I was not able to get a pretty hammer-head stall-turn outa her. She runs outa rudder authority...I can't push the nose around.
- No flap/elevator mix is needed.
- She totally lacks the Wichita wiggle (yaw oscillation) that the AL37 has on gusty days. That's not to say that the windy/gusty conditions I flew in today didn't knock her around, but no pitch, roll, or yaw oscillations were seen. She gets back to a static stability very quickly after a gust upset.
- The PJ50 will disappear on you and blend into a sky with haze...especially in up-sun sky quadrants. Be careful.
- High-speed, full power photo passes are incredible!!!! Beautiful
- During a couple of approaches, I got her a little slow. Interestingly she just does a rapid wing rock back and forth oscillation to touchdown….probably caused by alternate wing stall vortex shedding. Not that this type of approach is recommended, but she stopped in a very little length of runway and didn't hit hard.
- Only a couple of times did the wing drop enough on landing in gusts to contact the runway. I will add skid plate material where I see the wing contacted the runway. It was a gentle touch...no tendency to yaw the nose toward the tip that was touching.
- I decided to remove the aileron expo. But, I'm used to the F-4, MiG-29 and AL37. Just don't overcontrol on the aileron. Good aileron authority is maintained even at slow speeds
- Elevator authority is nicely tuned to the airframe. No issues with that. Rudder authority seems to be lacking, but it could be just me. I will experiment more with hammer heads, spins, snap rolls, on high rate.
- She flies inverted just fine. I added 3 clicks of power before inverting (3 clicks north of neutral). She does require some down stick to hold level inverted.
- High-speed into vertical rolls are a thing of beauty. WOW...to the moon*. VERY IMPRESSIVE!
- After all of this flying/acro, I do not see any wing foam flexing/stress cracks or even cell-boundary stress indications. I did not add internal carbon bracing like I did on the AL37.
- DO NOT LAND TOWARD OBSTICALS. You will likely hit them...because she floats and floats and floats if you are the least bit fast.
- This bird is one heck of a glider. Get her up 300-400 feet, chop the power, and go get a cup of coffee while she descends. She should thermal VERY well power off. I will find out.
- Again, you are gonna love the landing gear. True, it is narrow and will tip over, but it is VERY NICELY tuned for handling a dropped in landing. A good landing just feels REALLY GOOD. It has a nice sound rolling, too.
- Take off is a cinch. Add full power, touch the up elevator...you're flying. 1/4 flap on take-off, full flap on landing.
- Picky thing, but I am glad the landing gear deploy/retract is done without the artificial delay.
- Love the sound she makes flying by.
- I was impressed by how well she tolerated the 10 to 15 mph gusty conditions.
- My opinion.....Freewing has a winner here.
-GG
*You may assume the max altitude was less than the max allowed altitude for RC planes.
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I plugged an LED in once and had the wrong polarity. It flashed once and that was it - DEAD.
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Ok - Then it is time to do some troubleshooting.Originally posted by SOS View PostHi, It was plugged into the Double Flash port.
Steve
Bad LED? Get a couple of 1.5V batteries and hook them in series for 3V. Hook up the LED to them. If it doesn’t come on, check the solder connections to the LED. Gently Wiggle the wires, push them up and down. Do you have another plane to get an LED from?
If it were me, I would not invest too much time/effort into it. Unless you fly near dark, you don’t see that LED anyway. Just fly it. You could spend a lot of effort figuring it out. For what gain? Not much. Frustrating that a few cents of a part doesn’t work, but are you a puzzle solver at heart? Or…can you overlook this and be OK?
Now if you just gotta have it working, be prepared to maybe replace the plug, the wiring, the MCBE box, and the LED. MRC support will get you what you need, but time, effort, UGH. Just fly it. It is up to you.
-GG
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All the light ports on the blue box are 2 pins. That's how you know the ones that are lower voltage. They're even labelled. If you plug a 2-pin connector into a 3-pin port, well, why would you do that anyway?
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The LEDs cannot withstand 5V. If you accidentally plugged it into anything on the MCBE but the "strobe" or "light', she'd work just long enough to burn out. Gonna have to get another LED.Originally posted by SOS View PostReceived mine last Thursday, have been working on it slowly and today she is ready for the maiden, in a month or two when the weather decides to play nice. The plane was in great shape, the only problem I have is the red strobe under the plane does not work. It started to strobe and just stopped and that was it, tried plugging it into other ports and nothing.
-GG
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Received mine last Thursday, have been working on it slowly and today she is ready for the maiden, in a month or two when the weather decides to play nice. The plane was in great shape, the only problem I have is the red strobe under the plane does not work. It started to strobe and just stopped and that was it, tried plugging it into other ports and nothing.
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I just tested a spot using Montana Cans Gold " Shock White Pure" #S9120 and had an excellent match.Originally posted by GliderGuy View PostI ran over a small stick yesterday. Filled the nick on the bottom. Had several cans of “white”. This one is pretty close to perfect.
RUST-OLEUM
FLAT PROTECTIVE ENAMEL
7790830 FLAT WHITE on the UPC label
Just says WHITE on the front
Used light coats and sprayed at least 6 in away. No crinkle resulted.
-GG
I sprayed the top right corner in the attached photo.
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I ran over a small stick yesterday. Filled the nick on the bottom. Had several cans of “white”. This one is pretty close to perfect.
RUST-OLEUM
FLAT PROTECTIVE ENAMEL
7790830 FLAT WHITE on the UPC label
Just says WHITE on the front
Used light coats and sprayed at least 6 in away. No crinkle resulted.
-GG
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I know. I've been printing freeware versions of nose braces off thingiverse for years. In some cases I made personal modifications to the STL to suit my particular needs and modifications.
More power to Wildvortex to making these available to anyone without a printer of their own, but I would still prefer to print it myself.
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thanks,Originally posted by xviper View PostIn fact, I did up some measurements for Wildvortex who was going to print some up to sell. Here are the pictures I sent him:
1st one is just a picture of the area. Note that the brace will have to go under the light wires. There is enough slack available in the wires:
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...3&d=1642530298
Width of the space is 56mm.
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...4&d=1642530308
Note the space between the lip of the door opening and the top of the tiller arm. Then there's the thickness of the closed door (~2mm). So about 4.85mm.
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...5&d=1642530319
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...6&d=1642530331
Diameter of nose strut is 12.05mm.
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...8&d=1642530350
Distance from rear edge of gear bay to the back of the strut is 13.7mm
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...7&d=1642530341
Hope the pictures show up.
Excellent data, though none of the image links work. All return invalid data error message.
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In fact, I did up some measurements for Wildvortex who was going to print some up to sell. Here are the pictures I sent him:Originally posted by Gilatrout View PostWell since FedEx couldn't be bothered to unload trucks today, I was wondering if anyone has designed or could provide the appropriate dimensions for a nose gear support block?
1st one is just a picture of the area. Note that the brace will have to go under the light wires. There is enough slack available in the wires:
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...3&d=1642530298
Width of the space is 56mm.
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...4&d=1642530308
Note the space between the lip of the door opening and the top of the tiller arm. Then there's the thickness of the closed door (~2mm). So about 4.85mm.
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...5&d=1642530319
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...6&d=1642530331
Diameter of nose strut is 12.05mm.
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...8&d=1642530350
Distance from rear edge of gear bay to the back of the strut is 13.7mm
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...7&d=1642530341
Hope the pictures show up.
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Tom, Thanks so much for this. I went this morning to pick it up at he depot and the driver never took it off his truck for me to pick it up. It was a wasted 40 mile trip. I ask to speak with the manager and he was extremely apologetic and told me he only live 2 miles from me and would personally drop it off after his shift. He showed up with it at 4:45 he said he would get to the bottom of this.His name was Alan props to him for going above and beyond what he has to do for his job to get the plane to me. I appreciate your effort in doing this for me as well. Tomorrow it gets build and I can't wait to get it in the air for the maiden and then to personalize it as soon as the weather breaks from this cold so I can get it painted.Originally posted by Tom View Postavanti127, I sent an email to our FedEx rep about your FedEx driver issues. Our FedEx reps name is David and I passed along your contact information to him (I hope you don't mind). You are a great customer and I'd like to get this solved so it stops happening. Thank you for all your business!
Thanks Again Tom!


Joe
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Well since FedEx couldn't be bothered to unload trucks today, I was wondering if anyone has designed or could provide the appropriate dimensions for a nose gear support block?
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Same experience here. Our mail carrier is super. He knows I get these big boxes from time to time and he brings it to me first thing after he parks on my street. He rings the doorbell and waits for me to come take it inside. I tip him BIG at Xmas.Originally posted by Evan D View PostAs a long time pessimist when dealing with USPS, UPS and FedX I say he's not a nice guy until he does what he say's he'll do.
That said my normal mail lady is super efficient (though most of my USPS issues have nothing to do with her) and my FedX guy(s) and girl have been great. UPS not so much...
Good luck!
Maybe next time a big sign in the street in front of your house "Joe lives here!".
On the other hand, on one occasion when he had a sub, I didn't get my plane. I was expecting it that day, so I went out to meet him. Turned out he took off down the street. I went up to the truck and saw my box in the back. I figured he was going to deliver it to me last. He never came with it, only a few pieces of crap mail and then left. My regular mailman came the next day and brought it to me. The sub was just too damn lazy to bring that big box to my door. He left it in the truck for the regular guy to do it.
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