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The 12 blade inrunner in the A10 yields more power and potentially longer flights depending how you use throttle. But let's be clear here, the original outrunner 9 blade in the V1 was still overpowered when compared to pretty much every other stock edf available. Yes the 12 blade will get up off grass in a short distance at considerably less than full throttle, however so did the original 9 blade outrunner. Whatever you choose, it will suffice I assure you, it's just that you get even more with the full fat setup and it sounds better.
I have had the 12 blade in my V1 for some time and very glad I had 2 spare units to fit in it, but it wasn't needed, just very nice.Leave a comment:
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I'll take a stab at this.....
Artificial Intelligence search provides the following:
" In the context of EDF (Electric Ducted Fan) units in RC models, 12-blade ED.F. units typically offer a more resonant and powerful sound compared to 9-blade units. The increased number of blades also contributes to more efficient airflow and a potentially smoother, more stable flight."
I concur with the sound:
The 12 Blade fan will produce a fatter sound and should make more thrust a lower RPM, Top speed should be lower but battery flight duration should be very comparable.
We have to consider the Inrunner vrs Outrunner motors:
However this may be all "Objectional" since the 12 Blade EDF version runs "Inrunner" motors while the 9 Blade EDF version run "Outrunner" motors. Usually the "Inrunner" motor runs higher RMP than "Outrunner" motor.
Perhaps the 12 Blade EDF is considered more efficient but there again we would need hard data of the fans flown and compared in the same plane, same field, same batteries.
My theory which can only be tested by having both versions tested with the same batteries at the same field...is the 12blade fan may have an advantage on grass field where there is a little power available to get the model rolling out off for takeoff/rotation.
TwistedGrinLeave a comment:
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Can someone explain the difference between the two versions? (9-blade and 12-blade)
Gyro is clear, but what are the advantages and disadvantages of the two drives?
Thanks in advanceLeave a comment:
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Darn it…typos in my prior post, but it won’t let me edit it.
“Aerobatics” and “not a hint of a crow hop”
-GGLeave a comment:
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Nine flights today (sunrise and afternoon).
This bird is AWESOME. Cruising at 50% power plus a couple of high speed runs plus a bit of full power erobatics AND a 4 1/2 minute timer…landing with 3.8V…enough for a go around.
This power set-up is VERY good!
Admiral 6000 6S batteries. Such a “comfortable” bird to fly, yet it cuts up pretty good, too. Lands like a dream. No power on final and she glides in perfect.
Made a couple of not so good landings, and there was no hint of it starting to try to crow hop.
-GGLeave a comment:
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I had to reverse a few channels in my transmitter…
Elevator, Rudder, throttle. This is not uncommon to have to do for a new model.
I took the motor power leads under the control board, as well. Lotsa room in the belly under the control board .
My rig is 6 ch, so removed the gyro mode and reverse leads that woulda gone to the RX. Gyro light stays GREEN.
Needed to trim a little off the bottom of the canopy front area to get it to close on top of the 6000.
-GGLeave a comment:
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Started my assembly last night and have some observations:
Motor pod wire pull:
I would advise routing the motor and signal wires to the side and not through the existing wires pre-installed to the control board.
Wing ribbon connectors:
My connectors are really tight and required hemostat pliers to help remove them after getting them plugged in
Travel distance for Elevator, Rudder and Flap:
I needed to increase the travel rates of my servos to 115 in order to reach the high travel distance on my surfaces - have not tried moving the servo arm out to farthest hole yet
FreewingGuard Gyro:
I ordered the "Gyro" equipped model and find the stabilizer is still active in "Off Mode" for the rudder and nose wheel at a low rate and moving the incorrect direction. The Gyro manual states three modes and colors for its modes - I chose only two modes "Basic Gain Mode" LED Green & "Gyro Off mode LED White. Looks like white means not lighted? Hopefully will learn more today and report. (Confirmed with MotionRC / Gyro Off LED = No LED active)
Aircraft LED's
Magnificent
TwistedGrinLeave a comment:
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Maiden plus 3 more at sunrise. The light bars/formation lights look soooo cool! I set it up per the manual…including the flap/elevator mix. With Admiral 6000s as far back as the battery straps allow and still hold the battery, the CG was a touch nose heavy…but only a tiny bit.
After lift-off, needed a few up trim clicks and a few left aileron clicks.
Glides in on final with no power to a touch down without any of the version #1 crow hopping tendency.
Immediately felt comfortable….Sweet flying bird!
Inverted takes a little forward stick at this CG.
LOL - Get you one! So honest in the air…my new favorite!
4:00 at mostly 60% power (a little hot doggin’) landed with 3.9V.
-GGLeave a comment:
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Hello TwistedG,
The A-10’s official designation since day one is the Thunderbolt 2 with the nickname of Warthog. The naming was honoring the P-47 Thunderbolt because of the heavy armor provided in the airframe for pilot protection. Both birds could absorb a huge amount of damage and return home.
Regards,
Warbird CharlieLeave a comment:
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I am having a hard time deciding on what livery and operation base to select....like the snake but then I also like the hog.....researching when this aircraft name changed from the A-10 Warthog to the Thunderbolt...the snake is pretty neat but I see that livery mostly when the aircraft is painted black. The sharks mouth is open which places the forward gun in a nice position for the graphic and is more recognized.....
The all grey aircraft does benefit with some coloration of the sharks mouth in red though......hmmmm
TwistedGrinLeave a comment:
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Hi, Got mine ordered, will be here Tuesday. Have V1 still in the box. V2 has many improvements.Leave a comment:
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The open port is because the steering is through the rudder input to the gyro and everything you said sounds normal with a steering gyro.Leave a comment:
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Note: Stock set-up…nothing added.
Question about the nose gear steering. The NOSE STEERING port on the control board is open. I would have thought the nose gear steering servo would be connected to this port. Hmmm….
I did not trace the nose gear servo wire to see where it is connected, but I will.
My question is about the nose gear steering behavior. It does not seem normal. It does NOT move L/R smoothly in response to the stick inputs like every other RC plane I have flown!
However, it does move VERY SMOOTHLY to counter any L/R movement of the nose without any stick inputs.
It somewhat responds jerkily to stick inputs, but it responds in the correct direction to stick inputs.
I’ve never used a nose steering gyro on any plane, so unsure about the steering servo behavior when a steering gyro is used. This A-10’s steering servo behavior seems abnormal.
Does something seem amiss with the connection to the nose steering port being open and the “unusual” not smooth behavior of the nose gear’s response to stick inputs?
Maybe the nose steering servo is “Y’d” to the rudder? To be determined…
Lastly, the rudders movement is smooth and correct and rudder gyro response is normal smooth and correct.
Thoughts? Comments? That open port on the control board has me pondering this early hour.
Thanks,
-GGLeave a comment:
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