Official Freewing Twin 80mm EDF A-10 Thunderbolt II Super Scale V2 Thread

[Kelew4n]

So, should I just plug the external UBEC into the receiver and the two cables from the ESC into the control board?
Won't I then have a short circuit because the ESC gets power from the LiPo and also from the receiver?

[xviper]

Hello, I have a question about the UBEC. Since I couldn't find any information in the manual, I'm assuming it just supplies the receiver with power as usual, and that I remove the positive wire from the connectors on both controllers and only plug the signal and negative wires into the control board, right?

No. Those ESCs are "opto". They have no BECs in them. Those red wires aren't powered. No need to do anything with them.

[Kelew4n]

Hello, I have a question about the UBEC. Since I couldn't find any information in the manual, I'm assuming it just supplies the receiver with power as usual, and that I remove the positive wire from the connectors on both controllers and only plug the signal and negative wires into the control board, right?

[GliderGuy]

I posted also on rcgroup but no response yet on my question.
I may be maiden my v2 hopefully today.. what's cg is everyone at on the v2 ? And can you stack the HRB 6000 together like I read online? I did not maiden yet only taxi test

See my prior post…above.
With 2 Admiral 6000 mAh batteries, my bird is very slightly nose heavy when lifted at the CG marks / right side up and gear down. This is fine for a maiden. You can adjust to suit later.

Stacking? Man…there is barely enough room to place them end to end. It’ll take some smaller batteries to do any stacking.

For your initial flights, just get the CG close to balancing when lifted at the marks. She is a VERY nice handling ship even slightly nose heavy.

-GG

[slowace]

I posted also on rcgroup but no response yet on my question.
I may be maiden my v2 hopefully today.. what's cg is everyone at on the v2 ? And can you stack the HRB 6000 together like I read online? I did not maiden yet only taxi test

[GliderGuy]

Hello, I ordered mine with an inrunner and gyro and am now impatiently awaiting delivery.
I would throw out the gyro because I wanted to install a 10-channel Spektrum AS3X+ receiver.
To my question: Did you notice anything else I should be aware of?
I read about the incorrect labeling on the board.

I wasn't happy with the factory set-up having the nose gear steering being done by the gyro. I disconnected the nose gear steering servo from the gyro and connected it directly to the nose gear steering port on the control board.
She tracks straight as an arrow, regardless. Initially, throws and flap/elevator mix by the book is a good start.

If you use 6000 mAh batteries, you may find that the CG is a tiny bit forward of the CG mark. This is not a problem for your maiden flight. You can adjust the CG as you wish, later on.

It's a VERY nice handling bird.

-GG

[xviper]

Hello, I ordered mine with an inrunner and gyro and am now impatiently awaiting delivery.
I would throw out the gyro because I wanted to install a 10-channel Spektrum AS3X+ receiver.
To my question: Did you notice anything else I should be aware of?
I read about the incorrect labeling on the board.

I fly mine with the stock gyro turned off and I use a different gyro receiver. I don't recall any mislabeling of the board but then, I never unplugged anything. If in doubt, it's always good to check all leads with a servo tester so you know what they are for sure.

[Kelew4n]

Hello, I ordered mine with an inrunner and gyro and am now impatiently awaiting delivery.
I would throw out the gyro because I wanted to install a 10-channel Spektrum AS3X+ receiver.
To my question: Did you notice anything else I should be aware of?
I read about the incorrect labeling on the board.

[Alphonso]

Someone posted a vid on the other forum of a kid in Taiwan flying with one fan and it had green slime lights.

[Obi]

The ones being sold in Asia from the next batch have the correct colour formation lights. Seen a vid on YT.

HI! Do you recall where you have seen it? I kinda heard rumors but never seeing anything offical. I still want to buy one and just wonder If I should wait a bit or when those will be in the shelves. Cheers Toby

[Alphonso]

Just to expand on my last post, I spray very light, you almost can't see the paint going on with each pass, this is the quickest way of doing it.

[Alphonso]

I am going to assume that you airbrushed the Tamiya Clear Yellow (looks great)... What did you thin the clear with? I have had trouble spraying that particular brand through my airbush.

There is enough space in the X24 bottle to add the correct amount of X20 thinner for airbrushing. You can brush it on with good results but it is much quicker to air brush as each coat dries instantly. I did the last coat heavier so it looked wet as that gave a nice shiny finish. You can't do too many coats.

[Eddie K’s RC]

Spent few hours correcting my slime lights. Roughly 20 coats of Tamiya X24. Its halved the brightness which is an added bonus too.
also shown is a great masking tape, you can leave this on for days and it won't lift paint off EPO. I went over the edge of the plastic light mounts and then used Tamiya tape to give a sharp edge up to the light lense.

I am going to assume that you airbrushed the Tamiya Clear Yellow (looks great)... What did you thin the clear with? I have had trouble spraying that particular brand through my airbush.

[Aros]

I love the looks alone and am tempted to do the mod just for the scale appeal factor.

[Pacro]

Drag brakes on the B2 is somewhat effective for slowing down and needed for in-air rudder control. Slowing it down after landing has useful efficacy only if they are programmed to fully open together. On the A-10 however, it's great for "show and tell" (if that's what you're into). The motors' thrust reverse is far more effective if a short stop is needed. I'm not so sure on a heavy plane like the A-10, even with full open drag brakes, would shorten the roll that much. (Would add even more to an already very expensive model but that's just me.)

I understand the reverse thrust is more effective, but this was mostly with a scale look in mind and braking as the "extra" feature.
bu setup requires the modeler to modify the ribbon cabe so that all 4 of the aileron and brake servos can work together to open the brakes

[xviper]

Drag brakes on the B2 is somewhat effective for slowing down and needed for in-air rudder control. Slowing it down after landing has useful efficacy only if they are programmed to fully open together. On the A-10 however, it's great for "show and tell" (if that's what you're into). The motors' thrust reverse is far more effective if a short stop is needed. I'm not so sure on a heavy plane like the A-10, even with full open drag brakes, would shorten the roll that much. (Would add even more to an already very expensive model but that's just me.)

[Aros]

Love that mod! Yeah I wish FW would have added that out of the box. Nicely done.

[Pacro]

FW left out the most (IMHO) important mod of all split-aileron/decelerons

Just finished putting the finishing touches on my mod

clips on YT

https://youtu.be/6UYIKUsYufM?feature=shared

files already available on cults

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/vari...-install-guide

[Pacro]

FW left out the most (IMHO) important mod of all split-aileron/decelerons

Just finished putting the finishing touches on my mod

clips on YT

https://youtu.be/6UYIKUsYufM?feature=shared

files already available on cults

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/vari...-install-guide

[Aros]

Nicely done!