Good morning, everyone. It’s morning here in Italy now; I’ve read your comments and thank you. Of course, I won’t be asking for tire sizes, but rather relevant questions. Since the F35 hasn’t arrived in Europe yet—though fortunately I managed to get one from the only shipment that’s arrived so far, and I’ll be receiving it at home in a few days—you in America have already had a chance to test it for a month and thus identify its strengths and weaknesses. So what I’m reading and seeing is very helpful—mistakes made by the manufacturer and corrected, as we always do here, since we’re the ones who ultimately use the models. And so I’m taking inspiration from this to try to make the model as accurate as possible. Yes, I know how to use advanced programming; I just wanted to know the values so that, with such a large model, I wouldn’t make any mistakes. I’ll start with average values, which, as you rightly pointed out, will then be adjusted during flight and throughout the various tests. Undoubtedly, starting with values that have already been tested would be ideal, but I’ll figure them out anyway. I’ve also read that it’s best to move the center of gravity back by 2 cm. That’s something I don’t like, at least from what I’ve seen in videos, because I don’t physically have the model in front of me yet, nor the wiring. Wires everywhere. I’ll try to organize the model as much as possible so that it looks neat to the eye as well. Thank you, and have a great day.
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There was a mistake in the translation. It’s not the center of gravity shifted back 2 cm that bothers me, but the messy wiring in a €1,000 model. I also use high gain settings during takeoff and landing and low gain settings during flight. So I linked the gain controls to the throttle so they adjust automatically, and the flight is fantastic.
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Yeah, that's what I do, too. I've heard some not-so-great things about the stock one, and besides, you can program everything from the radio.
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TwoBrosRC has a setup guide for the F35 but that is now available to his channel supporters. Before he used to place his As3X+ settings on the screen. If you join his DISCORD server you will be able to get his settings for how he prefers his to fly.
This may or may not be how you like things! I took out the FW gyro as the gain , as far as I coud see could not be assigned to a slider. I am very fond of the HobbyEagle A3 Super 4 which has Sbus capability and remote gain plus a good programmer and remote box. Hard to beat for the price.Comment
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Yeah, I know Discord, but the settings aren't for average pilots—they're super, super, super advanced—and sometimes you have to change servos and ESCs, and on top of the costs, you really have to be a skilled pilot to fly them. Plus, he's always pushing his models to the absolute limit in terms of performance. He's a great pilot, though—actually, he's amazing.
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I'm hoping my F-35 will arrive 2nd half of Oct. Since I'm going to be using a Lemon 10-ch stabilized RX, I'm going to do a hybrid set up. I'll leave the stock gyro in place but only use it for the rudder and steering gyro. I'll plug the AIL and ELE into the Lemon and use the rotary knob for gyro master gain. The Lemon also has telemetry for flight pack voltage and altimeter. It doesn't have "self level", but I haven't needed that feature for some time now.Comment
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Check your telemtry max voltage. I used a RadimasterER8 and connected it for set up. I heard a fizzle and sniffed some magic powder and then disconected everything. Upun checking , the voltage max was 10 Volts below the 45 Volts that was available at the time.
The receiver seems ok but i cant risk it and have ordered the new ER12 which is rated to 70Volts. I am so used to 6S that it did not enter into my head. Hopefully someone else may learn from my mistake.
cheers
MarkComment
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