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Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

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  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    ColtPilot Nice work, he does have blue eyes!

    Leave a comment:


  • ColtPilot
    replied

    just another view of the 3d printed pilot and seat.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    Originally posted by ColtPilot View Post
    WOW, impressive, especially the blue (I think) eyes, looks like he's looking right at you!!

    Leave a comment:


  • ColtPilot
    replied

    redid the GAU-8 to look more realistic. 1/8" brass tubing.

    Leave a comment:


  • ColtPilot
    replied
    Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
    It's official, for me anyway, the A-10 is the easiest EDF I have to fly. Got another 7 flights on it (boy, this thing puts a dent in my battery stock) along with my F-16, F-4 and Slick 60. Must be the easiest landing EDF there is and it does "jet acrobatics" so easy, I just love it. Now I need to by a LiPo factory to keep this thing fed!

    Should have the 3D cockpit finished by the end of the week, it looks fantastic, thanks to Dirty Dee for coming up with the design and any other "phantom" friends out there who helped me out. Just got my 1/10 scale JH hobby pilot in, now final gluing of the pieces and then repainting to get with the Arctic theme. Glad I purchase a spare cockpit to work on so I could keep flying in the meantime.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20200927_120203.jpg
Views:	642
Size:	320.3 KB
ID:	277221

    my 3d printed pilot and seat.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    It's official, for me anyway, the A-10 is the easiest EDF I have to fly. Got another 7 flights on it (boy, this thing puts a dent in my battery stock) along with my F-16, F-4 and Slick 60. Must be the easiest landing EDF there is and it does "jet acrobatics" so easy, I just love it. Now I need to by a LiPo factory to keep this thing fed!

    Should have the 3D cockpit finished by the end of the week, it looks fantastic, thanks to Dirty Dee for coming up with the design and any other "phantom" friends out there who helped me out. Just got my 1/10 scale JH hobby pilot in, now final gluing of the pieces and then repainting to get with the Arctic theme. Glad I purchase a spare cockpit to work on so I could keep flying in the meantime.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20200927_120203.jpg
Views:	642
Size:	320.3 KB
ID:	277221

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by RC30Flyer View Post
    These are the batteries I have to work with... I have 6 of them, and cannot afford more batteries at this time. Unless you feel like donating 4 of these lighter batteries😉. I get what your'e saying about dead weight, but what about the guys running sound systems in theirs? That's dead weight right there, eh? That sound system, with 2 35C 5000mah packs has got to be more heavy than what im running. All I keep reading about is that the A-10 doesn't care about the added weight. Who is correct here? 🤷‍♂️
    Noone is really wrong in this regard. "Dead weight" is always undesirable but the A-10 can haul it well. It's a big, heavy plane to begin with. An extra few hundred grams isn't a big deal for it. If that's what you've got for batteries, by all means, use them but as you've already experienced, some workarounds are needed to make them fit and balance the plane. If it were me, I'd carve up that canopy to make it work without stacking them, but that's me. You've got a good workaround. Go with it.

    Leave a comment:


  • ColtPilot
    replied
    Originally posted by RC30Flyer View Post
    These are the batteries I have to work with... I have 6 of them, and cannot afford more batteries at this time. Unless you feel like donating 4 of these lighter batteries😉. I get what your'e saying about dead weight, but what about the guys running sound systems in theirs? That's dead weight right there, eh? That sound system, with 2 35C 5000mah packs has got to be more heavy than what im running. All I keep reading about is that the A-10 doesn't care about the added weight. Who is correct here? 🤷‍♂️
    Mine is running at a pound and a half over sound system, position lights, and a HUD. All take separate batteries. Oh and strobes too.

    Leave a comment:


  • RC30Flyer
    replied
    Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post


    RC30Flyer agree with xviper, but as I think I said before, I would DEFINITELY not use those heavy (866 g) Admiral Carbon batteries in the A-10. They are a lot of extra weight for absolutely no benefit and getting the CG to where you need it with those bricks is not easy. The batteries xviper uses are much lighter with virtually the same mAh and the RT 6250's I use are only 790 g, so the 2 are a total of 152 g lighter than what you are using, yet give 25% more capacity. THAT'S an extra 1/3 of a pound!!!! I don't even want to think of what that would scale up to. Actually I just did, that's like adding an extra 800 pounds of dead weight in a real A-10, man that's one fat a... pilot, no more McDonalds for you. The twin 80 mm outrunners in the A-10 do not need a higher C battery (like most of the inrunners do) to reach maximum thrust, a 35C will perform the same in the A-10 as that Admiral 5100 70C, so there is absolutely no benefit, only a ton of extra weight. To quote just about everyone in this forum, extra weight is not your friend, especially when it does nothing for you. I know I've said this before, but I think you are making a huge mistake using those batteries in this particular jet, save them for something that they will give some benefit in (although I'm not sure what that would be as even a RT 5500 70C only weighs 800 g).
    These are the batteries I have to work with... I have 6 of them, and cannot afford more batteries at this time. Unless you feel like donating 4 of these lighter batteries😉. I get what your'e saying about dead weight, but what about the guys running sound systems in theirs? That's dead weight right there, eh? That sound system, with 2 35C 5000mah packs has got to be more heavy than what im running. All I keep reading about is that the A-10 doesn't care about the added weight. Who is correct here? 🤷‍♂️

    Leave a comment:


  • Dirty Dee
    replied
    I'm glad to hear that!

    Leave a comment:


  • Wobisch
    replied
    Dirty Dee, All the spectators love the cockpit details, done with your 3D Parts. THX again

    Leave a comment:


  • Dirty Dee
    replied
    She will fly again

    Leave a comment:


  • Wobisch
    replied
    lucky me

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Jefferybray View Post
    I have been 3D printing these and looks like a good accessory to display your A-10. I am also working on the boarding ladder and antennas for the A-10 as well, I didnt finish it before I flew mine, so I just glue the door on.

    Let me know if anybody is interstated.
    Thanks,
    Jeff
    JB, Thank you. That is just awesome looking. It would seem that at the very least the forward part with the gun barrels would be a great replacement part for those of us who have ridden the Bronc a bit and damaged our barrels. Not that I have ever done that.... Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    Originally posted by RC30Flyer View Post

    Thank you xviper, I will rebalance with the CG mark as I measured to the 85mm mark. Your explanation makes more sense, and I was way overthinking this. 🙄 I'm stacking my batteries because they are the Admiral Carbon 5100mah 70C, and the size and weight doesn't really fit in the front location without carving a bunch of foam from the canopy. Also I wanted a free and clear area for my receivers, away from the large batteries, to try and keep from getting shadowing effect from them. Plus I'm a little OCD with my setup😉 I can hit all the CG marks, and they fit beautifully.

    RC30Flyer agree with xviper, but as I think I said before, I would DEFINITELY not use those heavy (866 g) Admiral Carbon batteries in the A-10. They are a lot of extra weight for absolutely no benefit and getting the CG to where you need it with those bricks is not easy. The batteries xviper uses are much lighter with virtually the same mAh and the RT 6250's I use are only 790 g, so the 2 are a total of 152 g lighter than what you are using, yet give 25% more capacity. THAT'S an extra 1/3 of a pound!!!! I don't even want to think of what that would scale up to. Actually I just did, that's like adding an extra 800 pounds of dead weight in a real A-10, man that's one fat a... pilot, no more McDonalds for you. The twin 80 mm outrunners in the A-10 do not need a higher C battery (like most of the inrunners do) to reach maximum thrust, a 35C will perform the same in the A-10 as that Admiral 5100 70C, so there is absolutely no benefit, only a ton of extra weight. To quote just about everyone in this forum, extra weight is not your friend, especially when it does nothing for you. I know I've said this before, but I think you are making a huge mistake using those batteries in this particular jet, save them for something that they will give some benefit in (although I'm not sure what that would be as even a RT 5500 70C only weighs 800 g).

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    If stacking them does the trick for you, then go with it. My set up is virtually identical with Hugh's. However, I don't use those really big batteries even though I have some. I use Gens Ace 5000's. My ChinaHobbyLine 5000's are about the size of your Carbons and like you, I didn't want to carve the foam out of the canopy.

    Leave a comment:


  • RC30Flyer
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper View Post
    About the measuring of the CG point. It shouldn't have to be such a guessing game nor should you have to "eyeball" it. If you choose XXmm from the leading edge of the wing at the root, it's XXmm no matter how you measure it. Use a box butted up against the leading edge of the wing and measure from the vertical face of the box and straight back (at 90 degrees). Don't let the curve to of the top of the wing distract you. Once you see where XXmm is, drop vertically down to the wing surface and make a mark. If that's too close to the fuse, then use a right angle triangle (from a geometry set) to move the mark further out on the wing (perpendicular to the fuse). Plant your mark there and that's where you put your fingers to hold it for balancing. Repeat for the other wing.
    Regarding the batteries: You also shouldn't have to stack them. Why aren't you shoving one battery down on the rear battery tray (after you've released the blue box and moved it way to the rear of that compartment) as far as it'll go. The second battery can then go in front of the first one and can be moved around a bit to make it balance right.
    Thank you xviper, I will rebalance with the CG mark as I measured to the 85mm mark. Your explanation makes more sense, and I was way overthinking this. 🙄 I'm stacking my batteries because they are the Admiral Carbon 5100mah 70C, and the size and weight doesn't really fit in the front location without carving a bunch of foam from the canopy. Also I wanted a free and clear area for my receivers, away from the large batteries, to try and keep from getting shadowing effect from them. Plus I'm a little OCD with my setup😉 I can hit all the CG marks, and they fit beautifully.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    Agree with xviper . I removed the circuit board and stuck it to the port fuselage wall, also to help in receiver placement, then moved the batteries back to get to 90 mm. Added some extra straps for them as well. No need to stack them. Of course the front battery location affects the CG much more than the aft battery.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20200926_152819.jpg Views:	0 Size:	76.7 KB ID:	276892

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by RC30Flyer View Post
    So, I know alot of guys "eyeball" CG spots... but seems when i eyeball it from the top of the wing with it installed, i get about to the 80mm mark pictured here. However, if I measure with wing removed, my 85mm mark is the center mark pictured. Picture shows 80-85-90 respectively. Gimme your thoughts guys... I'm also having to stack my Admiral Carbons to get this CG, is anyone doing this?
    About the measuring of the CG point. It shouldn't have to be such a guessing game nor should you have to "eyeball" it. If you choose XXmm from the leading edge of the wing at the root, it's XXmm no matter how you measure it. Use a box butted up against the leading edge of the wing and measure from the vertical face of the box and straight back (at 90 degrees). Don't let the curve to of the top of the wing distract you. Once you see where XXmm is, drop vertically down to the wing surface and make a mark. If that's too close to the fuse, then use a right angle triangle (from a geometry set) to move the mark further out on the wing (perpendicular to the fuse). Plant your mark there and that's where you put your fingers to hold it for balancing. Repeat for the other wing.
    Regarding the batteries: You also shouldn't have to stack them. Why aren't you shoving one battery down on the rear battery tray (after you've released the blue box and moved it way to the rear of that compartment) as far as it'll go. The second battery can then go in front of the first one and can be moved around a bit to make it balance right.

    Leave a comment:


  • RC30Flyer
    replied
    So, I know alot of guys "eyeball" CG spots... but seems when i eyeball it from the top of the wing with it installed, i get about to the 80mm mark pictured here. However, if I measure with wing removed, my 85mm mark is the center mark pictured. Picture shows 80-85-90 respectively. Gimme your thoughts guys... I'm also having to stack my Admiral Carbons to get this CG, is anyone doing this?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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