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Official Freewing 70mm F-16C Falcon V2 Thread
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Jet hanger hobbies castle 5 pilot. Printed the dash panels on gloss photo paper. Have to cover exposed foam with plastic for sale sign cut to pattern and sprayed black. I need to figure out how to simulate the pilots knees between the panels.4 Photos
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Has anyone the paint match for the two grays used on the original V2?
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Finished up the topside tonight. Still have to clear it with a matte finish, except for the nose cone, which will get a satin clear.2 Photos
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Finally ordered an Arctic Camo version...This is a fantastic V2 70mm jet. Nice conversion work there scootergenie!
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This project started as a wrecked arctic camo version. Still a ways to go, but getting closer.3 Photos
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You can take the pin to the hardware store and make a much stronger one from a machine screw. Just match the length and width of the non threaded part. All you need is a grinder or dremel. Worst case scenario is bolt cutters and sanding...
I've done it before, but the retract cases are then the weakest thing and will break first next time.
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I don't get caught up in the watts so much as I do with how it actually sounds and feels. You can tell when a fan is starved for air. In my experience the stock Freewing fans have a little too much pitch to be dealing with cramped quarters. They starve for air and cavitate. I can hear that right off the bat. Now the FMS fan has been doing better in tight spots like this... I would be willing to see how it works in comparison... Just to see how it works...Originally posted by Evan D View PostI put a A-4 80mm in mine but swapped the shroud for a plastic one to save weight. Not sure why but it only made 1906W and flew like it. Much slower than it was with the XRP 70mm 13b which makes 2350W. The 80mm set up had almost zero perceptible motor whine which is cool. It was a cool experiment which I may revisit with a hotter 80mm set up. I may add some of the Eflite's top side cheaters to get more air in it too.
but in all honesty I am really happy with the XRP 14 blade and Dr. Madthrust 2960 2200kv motor set up. The Powerfun is another that I would be willing to try out as well but that would be pretty close to what the stock set up is...
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I do like to see what will happen... I put a 90mm, the old FW 6b 90, in a 80mm F86 and it was awesome. I need to rethink the F-16.. there's still hope it'll work out.
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Originally posted by Evan D View PostI put a A-4 80mm in mine but swapped the shroud for a plastic one to save weight. Not sure why but it only made 1906W and flew like it. Much slower than it was with the XRP 70mm 13b which makes 2350W. The 80mm set up had almost zero perceptible motor whine which is cool. It was a cool experiment which I may revisit with a hotter 80mm set up. I may add some of the Eflite's top side cheaters to get more air in it too.
Hi Evan, just to clarify, you're saying you put the A-4's 80mm EDF inside the 70mm F-16? The inlets and outlet math would be awry, which wouldn't surprise me as to why its wattage was lower.
But I admire the DIY attitude. Tinkering is the best part!
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I put a A-4 80mm in mine but swapped the shroud for a plastic one to save weight. Not sure why but it only made 1906W and flew like it. Much slower than it was with the XRP 70mm 13b which makes 2350W. The 80mm set up had almost zero perceptible motor whine which is cool. It was a cool experiment which I may revisit with a hotter 80mm set up. I may add some of the Eflite's top side cheaters to get more air in it too.
Originally posted by gooniac33 View Post
i don't think that swapping out the stock fan for the 80mm metal housing 12 blade fan is worth the effort. I do however completely agree with using the 9 blade which I see you did. I had been wondering how it would work in the F-16 airframe and now see that you have done it. It looks to fly pretty good! Good job on the upgrade!
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The upgrades aren't that reliable. I had my share of frustrations. I just use anvil and hammer to straighten them out. If you are going to do that, use smooth hammer head so you dont damage the pins.Originally posted by scootergenie View PostIs there anywhere to purchase just the pins, or do you have to buy the whole strut ?
Also, your nose gear will jam when the pin is bent... watch out and check your landing gear after rough landing. I already scraped nose twice.
I didnt see pins in spare parts. Just find out what diameter they are and look for them online. Also can check other models spare parts section, you might find a match.
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I just acquired the arctic camo high performance version from a fellow club member. it has the upgraded landing gear, and on the mains, both strut pins are bent so bad that it is unflyable. Is there anywhere to purchase just the pins, or do you have to buy the whole strut ?
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I find this one to be a very stable flyer. Even without a Gyro, mine flies Great !! No 'Shaking' to use your term. I am not really sure what shaking movements you are experiencing with yours but it seems uncharacteristic.
Plenty of great onboard and ground based videos on this one to view. Urrl and Gooniac, along with a few others, have posted some really great stuff !!! GL sorting it out ! Cheers
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Negative on 9 blade, it's a Freewing 6 blade 80mm and i think it's discontinued because Motion RC removed the link from their site. It was on sale for couple of month at leastOriginally posted by gooniac33 View Post
I do however completely agree with using the 9 blade which I see you did.
This is the link:
If you paste this in google: "Freewing 80mm 6-Blade EDF 6S Power System w/ 3525-2050kV Motor"
Top search should show a 4.6 star search result to above EDF unit. It gives me error 404.
On stabs: i also forgot to include pics from the bottom. Stabs are reinforced with plywood cutouts to make sure they don't snap off. I'll mention that in the how--to tutorial.
Also, i had major shaking, I think it's due to the strong crosswind i had during this flight, specially when i was above the trees. FPV footage really captures the shakes. You can even see plane rolling left and right during landing from my wife's camera. Is that normal for this model? This is my first successful EDF, all is new to me and i don't usually get instability like that with warbirds while in crosswind.
Have a great weekend pilots!
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i don't think that swapping out the stock fan for the 80mm metal housing 12 blade fan is worth the effort. I do however completely agree with using the 9 blade which I see you did. I had been wondering how it would work in the F-16 airframe and now see that you have done it. It looks to fly pretty good! Good job on the upgrade!Originally posted by Sam CS View PostFreeWing F-16 v2 70mm Converted to 80mm
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FreeWing F-16 v2 70mm Converted to 80mmFreeWing F-16 v2 70mm converted to 80mm fan, full horizontal stabilizer and FPV cockpit. Equipment installed: Rx FrSky x8R with Smart Port decoder (adds 4 mo...
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Thanks dude for helping me get the right parts for the stabilizer. I was also looking at 90mm F-16 part set. Might be a little too big though.Originally posted by Bobaroo View PostYeah,.. I used FW F-5 80mm FFStab Pivot assemblies for mine. Other Guys have done similar stuff with the FW F/A-18E 64mm Pivots. Here's a link to that forum. Lotta good stuff over there as well. GL
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...wing-70mm-f-16
I finished several mods
Converted to 80mm 6s
Horizontal Stabilizer (i took a bunch of pictures and short videos during the process to make a quick tutorial on it)
Also did an FPV mod with Head Tracking.
Dry weight: 1630g
Sadly, thrust measured at 1716g
I love how it handles, its a rocket ship for sure. First few flights i got about 6 minutes on 4500 Admiral and about 8min on 5000. I was just cruising around, nothing special. I am sure it's a bit heavy compare to stock 70mm but, with full flaps it comes down nicely, i like it. Landing gear "upgraded" still suck. i got tired of gluing the plastic cover as i have to remove it to tweak the struts.. no more plastic covers lol. I thought about a landing gear mod but you know, maybe i should learn how to properly land the plane ;)
To make the mold of rear section i used epoxy and some scrap wood. I did that before i butchered stabilizers and the fuse. Took about a week between family and work but, it was worth it. After molding was done, working on the stabs was easy and i wasn't worried about screwing around with proper angles and placement of the stabilizers. I also solidified elevator in-place by using a bit of epoxy. Those were brand new and i haven't broke the "factory seal" or i haven't flexed them. Worked out pretty good.
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