Avios/Hobby King 1600mm C-130 Hercules

[xviper]

Again some great info that only you guys with the know can answer.

If i say did go for this one.

A slightly better one is this one weighting only 20g more:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene...en_us_products

It will fit straight in my battery compartment and will be balanced correctly, providing all control serfaces are flat and smooth. Also as i cant see any Tx setup/ chanel setup info. Any ideas on settings for flaps, is it better flying with rudder mixed and does it make this easier to fly? I have a Futaba T8J transmitter

The better value and just as good battery is the one from ChinaHobbyLine. With that Panther, it'll work but could be slightly nose heavy but this is not a bad thing. This plane can fly well a bit nose heavy.
You won't see TX setup with HobbyKing planes. You plug things in as they are labelled. IE, throttle to throttle, AIL to AIL, etc. Do the throttle calibration as you should on any new plane. Follow the recommendations in the downloaded manual for throws and flaps. Expo is a personal thing and you should get a feel for what you like. I can't remember if the manual suggests any ELE compensation for flaps but if you use a slow down for deployment and use them as the plane slows down, you shouldn't need any compensation. Rudder mix is another personal thing. Most people learn to fly with rudder on a banked turn and don't dial in a mix. Just remember, this is not a "beginner" plane.

[Arron yeate]

I fly mine on 4S 2500-2700mAh packs strapped into the factory tray.

Does this battery give any benefits over the others mentioned? As ive read somewhere that some people had failures due to to higher battery power etc? And also does the battery that you mentioned throw the CG off?

Thanks

[Bajora]

Ah thanks for the advice on the l.e.d part i didnt know this however the leds on the inner came one when cylcling the rear hatch. Thats a good idea using a seperat BEC. Its a learning cycle for me so as much info from the pros the better. Is the HobbyKing Graphene 2.2, 4s battery strapped cross ways in the battery tray that Avios surgest where you mean in the comment above?

Thanks again
Arron

I fly mine on 4S 2500-2700mAh packs strapped into the factory tray.

[Arron yeate]

Actually, there are several 2.2, 4s batteries. You just have to put in the correct search parameters.
Here's the one I'm using in the Herc, weighing about 273g:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene-2200mah-4s-45c-w-xt60.html?queryID=0f9904658f625296ea0cd69ba0038c6d&objectID=45448&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products

A slightly better one is this one weighting only 20g more:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene-2200mah-4s-75c.html?queryID=08b5c59ea9fded9bcced97f97781a28c&objectID=75660&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products

So if you don't wish to carve out foam, your target battery weight is in the 270 to 290g range. An even better buy and perhaps just as good if not better battery is this one from ChinaHobbyLine from their USA warehouse. However, you need to buy 80 bucks worth to get free shipping. That would equate to 4 of these:

https://chinahobbyline.com/shop/detail/38

Because of the higher price of the HobbyKing ones, you can get free shipping by buying just one or two. When I need more of this size of battery, I'll get the CNHL ones. Actually, I just checked, I've got 4 of them coming from CNHL as I type.

Again some great info that only you guys with the know can answer.

If i say did go for this one.

A slightly better one is this one weighting only 20g more:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene...en_us_products

It will fit straight in my battery compartment and will be balanced correctly, providing all control serfaces are flat and smooth. Also as i cant see any Tx setup/ chanel setup info. Any ideas on settings for flaps, is it better flying with rudder mixed and does it make this easier to fly? I have a Futaba T8J transmitter

[xviper]

Actually, there are several 2.2, 4s batteries. You just have to put in the correct search parameters.
Here's the one I'm using in the Herc, weighing about 273g:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene-2200mah-4s-45c-w-xt60.html?queryID=0f9904658f625296ea0cd69ba0038c6d&objectID=45448&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products

A slightly better one is this one weighting only 20g more:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene-2200mah-4s-75c.html?queryID=08b5c59ea9fded9bcced97f97781a28c&objectID=75660&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products

So if you don't wish to carve out foam, your target battery weight is in the 270 to 290g range. An even better buy and perhaps just as good if not better battery is this one from ChinaHobbyLine from their USA warehouse. However, you need to buy 80 bucks worth to get free shipping. That would equate to 4 of these:

https://chinahobbyline.com/shop/detail/38

Because of the higher price of the HobbyKing ones, you can get free shipping by buying just one or two. When I need more of this size of battery, I'll get the CNHL ones. Actually, I just checked, I've got 4 of them coming from CNHL as I type.

[Arron yeate]

Best battery is always a matter of personal opinion. I just find that the weight of the Graphene 2.2, 4s is just about perfect for the recommended CG. I've seen some people use 3000's and bigger but that requires some foam removal to get the battery further back to achieve the proper balance. Yes, where the battery strap is out of the box seems to work best for me. If you try to mount the battery length wise, it tends to be nose heavy.

Thats great thank you, just had a look on hobbykings website, its not showing the 2200 4s. It only seems to show 3000 and other alternatives on my app

[xviper]

Ah thanks for the advice on the l.e.d part i didnt know this however the leds on the inner came one when cylcling the rear hatch. Thats a good idea using a seperat BEC. Its a learning cycle for me so as much info from the pros the better. Whats the best battery for these when installed in the correct tray? And is this the best place if going from factory settings for the CG.

Thanks again
Arron

Best battery is always a matter of personal opinion. I just find that the weight of the Graphene 2.2, 4s is just about perfect for the recommended CG. I've seen some people use 3000's and bigger but that requires some foam removal to get the battery further back to achieve the proper balance. Yes, where the battery strap is out of the box seems to work best for me. If you try to mount the battery length wise, it tends to be nose heavy.

[Arron yeate]

Gotcha. I don't know what kind of servo tester you have, but one really good way to power a typical servo tester is to get a small external BEC and plug that into the tester. Then, you can use whatever LiPo battery you have handy that's at least 2s and plug that into the BEC. The BEC will send the same voltage into the tester as it does to a typical RX. There are some servos out there where 6v may be just a bit too much. A word of caution in case you didn't know. Don't try to test the lights using a servo tester. It's too much and will most likely burn the light out.
No, I don't have any recent pictures or videos of mine. My Herc is fairly old now, so no new pics as nothing about it has changed. It's still the Canadian military version. All videos and pictures of it are posted earlier in this thread. I flew it just before winter came and it flew just as good as when it was new. Other than reinforcing the main gear trolley and repairing the control arm of the front gear door, it's needed nothing. Using a HobbyKing Graphene 2.2, 4s battery strapped cross ways at the rear of the compartment, it balances perfectly.

Ah thanks for the advice on the l.e.d part i didnt know this however the leds on the inner came one when cylcling the rear hatch. Thats a good idea using a seperat BEC. Its a learning cycle for me so as much info from the pros the better. Is the HobbyKing Graphene 2.2, 4s battery strapped cross ways in the battery tray that Avios surgest where you mean in the comment above?

Thanks again
Arron

[xviper]

Hi Viper thanks for the reply, no rx fitted yet or anything setup. Sorry if i didnt make myself too clear. What i meant to say was that the battery i took out of the tx didnt seem to have anough power... the new battery 2300mah 6.0v arrived and had the same issue nothing happening. My stupid mistake. I had the connectors from the servos in the Turnigy seurvo tester the wrong way round.. hand in head... ive just cycled the gear doors for 10 minutes and all working great. Then moved onto the rear door. All happy. However as i cant build it yet.. its back in the box awaiting the man cave to be built. Have you got any updated pics of yours?

Gotcha. I don't know what kind of servo tester you have, but one really good way to power a typical servo tester is to get a small external BEC and plug that into the tester. Then, you can use whatever LiPo battery you have handy that's at least 2s and plug that into the BEC. The BEC will send the same voltage into the tester as it does to a typical RX. There are some servos out there where 6v may be just a bit too much. A word of caution in case you didn't know. Don't try to test the lights using a servo tester. It's too much and will most likely burn the light out.
No, I don't have any recent pictures or videos of mine. My Herc is fairly old now, so no new pics as nothing about it has changed. It's still the Canadian military version. All videos and pictures of it are posted earlier in this thread. I flew it just before winter came and it flew just as good as when it was new. Other than reinforcing the main gear trolley and repairing the control arm of the front gear door, it's needed nothing. Using a HobbyKing Graphene 2.2, 4s battery strapped cross ways at the rear of the compartment, it balances perfectly.

[Arron yeate]

Don't know if you meant to say what you did. If the TX doesn't have sufficient battery power, it won't talk to the RX. It's not the battery power of the TX that opens the gear. It's the power that goes in and out of the RX that powers the BEC in the ESCs and all the gear and servos and lights of the plane. If that battery doesn't have enough power to work the gear, then it long since didn't have enough power to run the motors, as it would have hit the Low Voltage Cutoff. The gear and the servos will work on what voltage the battery puts out way after the motors cut out.

Hi Viper thanks for the reply, no rx fitted yet or anything setup. Sorry if i didnt make myself too clear. What i meant to say was that the battery i took out of the tx didnt seem to have anough power... the new battery 2300mah 6.0v arrived and had the same issue nothing happening. My stupid mistake. I had the connectors from the servos in the Turnigy seurvo tester the wrong way round.. hand in head... ive just cycled the gear doors for 10 minutes and all working great. Then moved onto the rear door. All happy. However as i cant build it yet.. its back in the box awaiting the man cave to be built. Have you got any updated pics of yours?

[xviper]

Im yet to build the c130 however i have had it out the box for a look. Ive got a servo tester ready just waiting for a battery as the one in the transmitter wasnt powerful enough i assume to open gear etc.

Don't know if you meant to say what you did. If the TX doesn't have sufficient battery power, it won't talk to the RX. It's not the battery power of the TX that opens the gear. It's the power that goes in and out of the RX that powers the BEC in the ESCs and all the gear and servos and lights of the plane. If that battery doesn't have enough power to work the gear, then it long since didn't have enough power to run the motors, as it would have hit the Low Voltage Cutoff. The gear and the servos will work on what voltage the battery puts out way after the motors cut out.

[Arron yeate]

Hi Guys new to RC planes amd from the Uk, loving the 2 years worth of comments on the c130. Ive just bought the c130 myself in grey appears to be the version 2 as the tailgail door has stops on it rather than the artificial hydrolic arms pulling apart? ,im awaiting Callie graphics to send out full decals to complete it as an RAF model. I do things backwards. I buy bigger than i should enjoy it but ill be buying a small cessna type rc plane to learn with. As i did with my scale cobra ah1-w heli.

Im yet to build the c130 however i have had it out the box for a look. Ive got a servo tester ready just waiting for a battery as the one in the transmitter wasnt powerful enough i assume to open gear etc.

Thanks
Arron

[Brinka]

Not necessarily (about 4X issues) but at least you know that going in. I've not had any issues just because there's 4 motors. Just make sure you do the throttle calibration so they're all sync'd up. That whole main gear dolly can come loose after a few bouncy landings. Take out the screws and apply some FoamTac to the threads and put them back in. Don't over tighten. On the nose gear door - the one that is actuated with a bar - that bar can break if you drag it through grass because those doors are so close to the ground. If can see what I'm talking about, maybe see if you can carve out a thin piece of wood or CF to laminate it.
If the cargo door comes down too far, they will come out of their guides. Until you understand how it flies and stalls in banked turns, keep up the speed/throttle and test up high.

Excellent advice, thank you for all the details, I will indeed follow these valuable tips. I’m fortunate to be able to fly off of a 900 ft runway so my landings should be smooth. I’m more of a scale jet flier so this is certainly a different style of flying. I’m just hoping everything out the box works out. Super excited for the challenge.

[xviper]

Just purchased the C130 for Black Friday sale on HK, any tips on the build and what to really look for before flying. 4 motors means 4x the issues. Certainly up for the task.

Not necessarily (about 4X issues) but at least you know that going in. I've not had any issues just because there's 4 motors. Just make sure you do the throttle calibration so they're all sync'd up. That whole main gear dolly can come loose after a few bouncy landings. Take out the screws and apply some FoamTac to the threads and put them back in. Don't over tighten. On the nose gear door - the one that is actuated with a bar - that bar can break if you drag it through grass because those doors are so close to the ground. If can see what I'm talking about, maybe see if you can carve out a thin piece of wood or CF to laminate it.
If the cargo door comes down too far, they will come out of their guides. Until you understand how it flies and stalls in banked turns, keep up the speed/throttle and test up high.

[Brinka]

Just purchased the C130 for Black Friday sale on HK, any tips on the build and what to really look for before flying. 4 motors means 4x the issues. Certainly up for the task.

[Fllyboy2]

would anyone have a nacelle and motor they would be willing to sell from a damaged one. I see HK has the parts listed but out of stock. thanks

[alex4orly]

Hi ProRocket,

I resolved it anyway, the new ESC is working fine.

Cheers

[PropRocket]

In his "other" thread, he posted pictures and I don't believe this plane uses those bullet connectors near the motors. I haven't had the need to take mine apart, but it seems they've soldered all the connections (no connectors). I've explained about the "opto" ESC and how his replacement ESC will need to have the red wire disconnected. Being an electrician, I think (or hope) he understood all that.

I’m sorry. I just checked the other thread. I was referring to the larger red and black power wires for the ESC’s having bullet connectors but I forgot about the splice point at the inboard motor for both pairs of wires.
alex4orly In this case, you need to solder the wires from the new ESC at these splice points. Or you can use crimp splices but you won’t have a lot of room to work with.

[xviper]

These ESC's do not have an on-board BEC. Therefore, they only have a 2-wire servo connection (signal and ground). If you only have an ESC with it's own BEC, you can use it but you have to first disconnect, and cap, the power (red) wire from the servo connecter.
The larger power wires would normally have a battery connecter on them. I assume they used bullet connectors to safe space. When you replace the ESC just remove the bullet connectors from the old ESC and solder them on to the new one.

In his "other" thread, he posted pictures and I don't believe this plane uses those bullet connectors near the motors. I haven't had the need to take mine apart, but it seems they've soldered all the connections (no connectors). I've explained about the "opto" ESC and how his replacement ESC will need to have the red wire disconnected. Being an electrician, I think (or hope) he understood all that.

[PropRocket]

Hello pilots,

I got my c-130 in February, was not able to maiden it until now.

The outer right motor ESC just doesn't Sync with the other 3, upon spooling up - the machine swings to the left...
Today - I pilled off the right wing wire ducts covering and have the following findings:

1) while attempting yet again to Sync the ESC's, I noticed that 3 motors move with the beeps, but the problematic one does NOT.
2) This means that it doesn't Sync with the others.
3) I pulled out the wires to see that the ESC is actually inside the Nacelle - glued inside to the foam. I pulled it out.
4) An unusual wiring - 4 wires go into it, a black+white (those are the negative and signal of the usual 3 wire plug from the Receiver)
5) The power goes in as RED and BLACK, I assume - the RED splits inside the ESC to power the ESC itself

Usually, an ESC has two plugs, one the 3 pins, the other - the actual power to the motor. But I can't think of how to replace the current strange thing with a normal 20A ESC...

Will appreciate any help

Thanks

These ESC's do not have an on-board BEC. Therefore, they only have a 2-wire servo connection (signal and ground). If you only have an ESC with it's own BEC, you can use it but you have to first disconnect, and cap, the power (red) wire from the servo connecter.
The larger power wires would normally have a battery connecter on them. I assume they used bullet connectors to safe space. When you replace the ESC just remove the bullet connectors from the old ESC and solder them on to the new one.