Avios/Hobby King 1600mm C-130 Hercules

[Arron yeate]

That "diode" as you call it, is a capacitor to smooth out the voltage spikes in the RX and gyro. It can also be Y'd into any channel on the RX or it can be plugged into any empty port on the gyro, like the mode or master gain port. As always, be mindful of polarity when you plug these things in (UBEC and the capacitor).
If you can free up a channel on the RX, you are better off to plug in master gain to a rotary knob on the TX. I use Spektrum and channel 8 is defaulted to the rotary but can be assigned to any port. I fly my C130 on 6 channels, leaving the gyro ON all the time. Works real well once you get the gains dialed in, which should only take a couple of flights. Your other choice is to forget the cargo door till you get the gyro dialed in with master gain. Then you know exactly how much gain it can handle and you set that on the gain pot permanently. Of course, you have to understand how to extrapolate from where the gain pot is set and how much on the knob you've dialed in. Once you've done that, you can plug the cargo door back, replace the knob with a switch and have the gyro on all the time.
Hint: The A3-L V2 has 2 gain pots. Don't use the right one. It's for heading gain. Turn it to zero. Use only the left one. It's for rate gain and controls all 3 control surfaces. Put the left pot to the mid-point. That's 50%. Hook up the master gain to whatever channel is controlled by the rotary knob. Your Futaba has one, right? Dial it to the mid-point. That's also 50%. 50% of 50% is 25%. If 25% is what you end up with, then you can remove the master gain and dial the left pot to 25% and you've got it. This plane can take upwards of 35% to 40% total gain - it's slow enough.

Another option I've seen done but it's not ideal. Seems to work for some people. Put the ON/OFF for the gyro Y'd to your gear channel, IF it goes in the correct direction. With gear down, the gyro is OFF. Gear up and it's ON.

Sorry for late reply.

Ok so tonight i plugged the A3L in and as soon as i powered up the plane all surfaces servos went to max one way i checked connection all ok. I disconnected the A3L Gyro and placed the ailerons lead, elevator lead and rudder lead back in the the Futaba Receiver and all surfaces went back to normal.is there something here i missed for the elevator and rudder to max one way.

[xviper]

The rotary switch.on a spectrum radio is analog and so the value left from one plane model would carry over to a different model. With gains, this can produce undesirable effects. Far better to assign gains to a digital trimmer switch so each plane keeps its gains separate from the others

This is so true. I just presumed that most people knew this. On all my planes that use the rotary for master gain, once I determine what the knob position works best for any particular plane, I mark that position on the underside of the canopy or inside the battery compartment (eg. 1 pm). Each plane will have a different "clock" position.

[Gilatrout]

The rotary switch.on a spectrum radio is analog and so the value left from one plane model would carry over to a different model. With gains, this can produce undesirable effects. Far better to assign gains to a digital trimmer switch so each plane keeps its gains separate from the others

[xviper]

Thanks for the fast reply. Yeah ideally id like to keep the flaps all on 1 channel. If i Y lead my Ubec to say the cargo door i only then have channel 8 free for the cable from the gyro. However there's an anti surge diode or something that apparently needs plugging in as well. Ideally id like to have option for gyro on / off but can't see a way round this

That "diode" as you call it, is a capacitor to smooth out the voltage spikes in the RX and gyro. It can also be Y'd into any channel on the RX or it can be plugged into any empty port on the gyro, like the mode or master gain port. As always, be mindful of polarity when you plug these things in (UBEC and the capacitor).
If you can free up a channel on the RX, you are better off to plug in master gain to a rotary knob on the TX. I use Spektrum and channel 8 is defaulted to the rotary but can be assigned to any port. I fly my C130 on 6 channels, leaving the gyro ON all the time. Works real well once you get the gains dialed in, which should only take a couple of flights. Your other choice is to forget the cargo door till you get the gyro dialed in with master gain. Then you know exactly how much gain it can handle and you set that on the gain pot permanently. Of course, you have to understand how to extrapolate from where the gain pot is set and how much on the knob you've dialed in. Once you've done that, you can plug the cargo door back, replace the knob with a switch and have the gyro on all the time.
Hint: The A3-L V2 has 2 gain pots. Don't use the right one. It's for heading gain. Turn it to zero. Use only the left one. It's for rate gain and controls all 3 control surfaces. Put the left pot to the mid-point. That's 50%. Hook up the master gain to whatever channel is controlled by the rotary knob. Your Futaba has one, right? Dial it to the mid-point. That's also 50%. 50% of 50% is 25%. If 25% is what you end up with, then you can remove the master gain and dial the left pot to 25% and you've got it. This plane can take upwards of 35% to 40% total gain - it's slow enough.

Another option I've seen done but it's not ideal. Seems to work for some people. Put the ON/OFF for the gyro Y'd to your gear channel, IF it goes in the correct direction. With gear down, the gyro is OFF. Gear up and it's ON.

[Arron yeate]

A UBEC does NOT have to be on its own channel. It can be Y'd to any channel or even plugged into the bind port after it's bound. Your HE gyro needs only to be connected to the AIL, ELE and RUD. If you don't have an available channel to plug in the "mode" or "master gain", then the gyro will simply be ON all the time. You can start with the gains really low (<25%) and work your way up little by little (2% at a time) until you get oscillation at top speed. If you do start to get oscillation at top speed, just slow down a bit and land, dial the gain back a bit and you're done for good.
The flaps on this plane (I have one) are quite benign that a slight unequal-ness is not bad at all. Just even them up as close as you can and then you don't have to have them on separate channels. Ask yourself which is more important to you ................... To have adjustability in your flaps to make them exactly the same or the ability to have "modes" on the gyro or have a master gain. Although I do like a master gain on some of my planes, this one is so stable that my gyro is just ON all the time. It really only helps in strong cross winds.

Thanks for the fast reply. Yeah ideally id like to keep the flaps all on 1 channel. If i Y lead my Ubec to say the cargo door i only then have channel 8 free for the cable from the gyro. However there's an anti surge diode or something that apparently needs plugging in as well. Ideally id like to have option for gyro on / off but can't see a way round this

[xviper]

A UBEC does NOT have to be on its own channel. It can be Y'd to any channel or even plugged into the bind port after it's bound. Your HE gyro needs only to be connected to the AIL, ELE and RUD. If you don't have an available channel to plug in the "mode" or "master gain", then the gyro will simply be ON all the time. You can start with the gains really low (<25%) and work your way up little by little (2% at a time) until you get oscillation at top speed. If you do start to get oscillation at top speed, just slow down a bit and land, dial the gain back a bit and you're done for good.
The flaps on this plane (I have one) are quite benign that a slight unequal-ness is not bad at all. Just even them up as close as you can and then you don't have to have them on separate channels. Ask yourself which is more important to you ................... To have adjustability in your flaps to make them exactly the same or the ability to have "modes" on the gyro or have a master gain. Although I do like a master gain on some of my planes, this one is so stable that my gyro is just ON all the time. It really only helps in strong cross winds.

[Arron yeate]

Ok i have a question... something i miss calculated

I have a futaba T8J transmitter and Futaba r2008sb 8 channel receiver. Hobby eagle A3 L V2 gyro.

Now then....

Channel 1 - ailerons
Channel 2 - Elevator
Channel 3 - throttle lead
Channel 4 - Rudder
Channel 5 - Gear
Channel 6 - Flap, Flap 2 connected on Y Lead
Channel 7 - cargo door
Channel 8 - 5ah UBEC


Question is.... if i move the flaps to channel 6 and flap 2 to channel 7 so i have more adjustability on each flaps, can the UBEC be on a Y Lead with say cargo door switch which would both share Aux channel 8.

Or would this not be a good idea? I can't run the Gyro as i don't have enough channels which I'm gutted about

Look foRward to your help

[Arron yeate]

It does it when the doors are closed because the servo arm is hitting the foam at the end of the stroke, I made a cutout at that point and no more servo noise.

Ill have another look with everything removed so just the servo arms are in place. This is a good solution mate. I'm loving tinkering with it so far

[RRHandy]

Ok, so tonight i centred the nose gear servo and adjusted the onose wheel. I noticed o of the main gear doors needed adjusting. I've noticed a slight servo sound once the main gear is up and the doors are closed, I've adjusted the main doors linkage to the max without going too far, but it still does it intermittently. I need to adjust he rear ramp servo arm as once closed on the servo tester the servo sounds under stress.

It does it when the doors are closed because the servo arm is hitting the foam at the end of the stroke, I made a cutout at that point and no more servo noise.

[xviper]

A slight intermittent servo sound is not a big deal. Is the door closed to your satisfaction or is it being forced? An RC modeller's basic skill would have you make a new rod that's a better length or try a different hole in the servo arm.

[Arron yeate]

Ok, so tonight i centred the nose gear servo and adjusted the onose wheel. I noticed o of the main gear doors needed adjusting. I've noticed a slight servo sound once the main gear is up and the doors are closed, I've adjusted the main doors linkage to the max without going too far, but it still does it intermittently. I need to adjust he rear ramp servo arm as once closed on the servo tester the servo sounds under stress.

[Arron yeate]

Pretty much, yes. The tail rudder is a lot easier to eyeball using a servo tester. The nose wheel is another matter. It's not always accurate to eyeball the wheel. It's better done driving on the ground.

Yeah that make total sense. Ill have another go tomorrow at getting the nose wheel more accurate. Cheers bud

[xviper]

absolute great advice that. I will bare this in mind. For now. If i plug and zero the rudder using the servo tester. Zero and adjust the nose wheel. I should be........... he says... half way there to getting it straight on its first drive...???

Pretty much, yes. The tail rudder is a lot easier to eyeball using a servo tester. The nose wheel is another matter. It's not always accurate to eyeball the wheel. It's better done driving on the ground.

[Arron yeate]

Yes. ALL my models require some steering wheel adjustment, some more than others. You first zero and adjust the tail rudder with the trim tab at neutral. Then you go and adjust the steering wheel. Take it for a drive up and down the runway WITHOUT taking off. Trim it so it runs straight. Bring it back and take note of where the nose wheel is. Bring the trim tab back to neutral and manually adjust the wheel with the rod. Do the same with the tail rudder after the first flight. When you land, take a picture of the rudder, move the trim tab back to neutral (if you used any clicks when flying) and manually adjust the rudder to what it looked like in the picture.

absolute great advice that. I will bare this in mind. For now. If i plug and zero the rudder using the servo tester. Zero and adjust the nose wheel. I should be........... he says... half way there to getting it straight on its first drive...???

[xviper]

Ah yeah i was looking at that. Ill have a look at removing and adjusting the wheel. Did you need to do this?

Yes. ALL my models require some steering wheel adjustment, some more than others. You first zero and adjust the tail rudder with the trim tab at neutral. Then you go and adjust the steering wheel. Take it for a drive up and down the runway WITHOUT taking off. Trim it so it runs straight. Bring it back and take note of where the nose wheel is. Bring the trim tab back to neutral and manually adjust the wheel with the rod. Do the same with the tail rudder after the first flight. When you land, take a picture of the rudder, move the trim tab back to neutral (if you used any clicks when flying) and manually adjust the rudder to what it looked like in the picture.

[Arron yeate]

The nose gear steering is on a rod. That rod has an adjustable end. Undo the end that hooks up to the tiller arm and turn it to make the rod the length you need for a straight front wheel. Same goes for the tail rudder.

Ah yeah i was looking at that. Ill have a look at removing and adjusting the wheel. Did you need to do this?

[xviper]

Ok, rear elevator installed and vertical stabiliser with rudder fitted, I've centralised the rudder servo with Turnigy survo tester, the rudder servo horn needs re positioning in order to get the control arm to fit, then when i connect the landing gear to the turnigy servobtester and clip neutral also the front noes gears slightly off center. So both rudder and no gear in neutral position but the nose gears slightly to the right. Any surgestions

cheers
Arron

The nose gear steering is on a rod. That rod has an adjustable end. Undo the end that hooks up to the tiller arm and turn it to make the rod the length you need for a straight front wheel. Same goes for the tail rudder.

[Arron yeate]

Few pics

[Arron yeate]

Ok, rear elevator installed and vertical stabiliser with rudder fitted, I've centralised the rudder servo with Turnigy survo tester, the rudder servo horn needs re positioning in order to get the control arm to fit, then when i connect the landing gear to the turnigy servobtester and clip neutral also the front noes gears slightly off center. So both rudder and no gear in neutral position but the nose gears slightly to the right. Any surgestions

cheers
Arron

[Arron yeate]

That should be fine (battery). This Herc is not a high demanding power system. It'll fly on almost anything so long as it will balance given the weight. High C is never bad but too low can be.

Yeah see this battery is easily purchased for me from the links you sent me on page 23 for the Turnagy 75C battery from Hobby King. Only issue was postage to the UK was £40.00 or £5 without tracking. And this was the closest to the one you had recomended. Id be putting it horizontally in the battery tray so hopefully the CG will be good there as thats where most of you seem to be installing them?