I would have trouble cutting any of that beautiful aircraft but I understand your reasons for doing it. Not so bad now it's done I suppose..
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Yeah making those kind of cuts have a major pucker factor to themComment
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I had considered that, but I think instead of making the turret rotate 360 degrees, I am going to use a "tiller" style handle and just use the standard 60 degree arc of a digital micro servo... I am using all digital servos with metal gears, even for the retract valve, bomb bay doors, turrets, etc... That way the main servos and aux. servos all match with a digital footprint. :Cool:Comment
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Going to do some more mundane work. I have to reverse the shafts of the Power 60 motors and the do the final fit and finish on the 8mm prop adapters (EFLM1934). It is a super-tight fit. If you force it, you will break it... It has to be done! So off to it. I will post few pics later...
On a different note, we are finally getting some light rain here in Willow Park, TX!! I am so very thankful for this... My heart overflows with gratitude! Thank You Lord!!! :Rainning::Sacred:Comment
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Not to hijack the thread but, Willow Park. I used to live just a few miles up I-20 from you. South of the freeway at exit 409 in Weatherford.:Cool:Comment
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We were in Weatherford from 1999-2012. Now in south central Ohio. Love it here, but I miss good mexican food, BBQ, and Texans.Comment
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From everything I’ve read, the 880uF cap packs should more than compensate for the newly shortened battery to esc wire lengths. My only curiosity now is any output difference between outboard and inboard motors from the difference in those esc to motor wire lengths and the possibility of a minor difference on motor timing. Just curious as I have nothing that different... Can’t imagine it would be much. I read those long wires should be twisted to eliminate radio interference.
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Roger that! I will test the longer leads to the outboard motors with the Watt meter and the Data logger in the ESC's and see what we get. I also planned to twist the leads just to be safe!!! Thanks so much for the input!!! Now I just have to keep enough energy up to get this all done!!! :Cool:Comment
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Some pics of the motor mods... The instructions state to "gently tap" the shaft... Nothing gentle about it... I wish we had a hydraulic press. It would make things so much smoother. Just like wheel bearings in a car or truck.... You can change them, it just ain't easy without a press... LOL
I used a deep well 3/4" drive socket and a flat punch & hammer to drive the shaft out of the rear of the motor after the retaining collar at the rear and the two set screws at the front of the motor were removed... DO NOT loose the tiny washer ring on the shaft...
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Then I put the motor armature in a baggie to keep it free of particles that could be attracted to the magnets. The 8mm shaft adapter had to be gently sanded on the interior dimension to fit the motor housing bell. So did the motor housing bell itself. A Dremel with a fine stone and low RPM was used at first, then 600 grit sandpaper finished it by hand. The screws for the adapter were threaded in, then removed. After that, a good shot of air from the compressor cleaned out any metal debris. Then a wipe with alcohol to finish it off. White lithium grease was applied to the prop adapter and the motor bell with a Q-tip, very sparingly. Finally the three adapter screws had a drop of blue locktite added. Then the entire assembly was lined up by starting the screws into the holes. Gently work the adapter down to the motor bell. DO NOT pull it down with the screws. They are just for alignment purposes... Finally, reassemble the bell to the armature and reinstall the front set screws, the tiny rear washer ring and the collar on the motor shaft. Use locktite on the set screws... Anyway, there is the book on doing a simple job... Now only two more to go....Comment
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Nicely done brother!Comment
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Thanks!!! I wanted to share how to do the shaft "move" (reversal) in case someone had not done it before... It just takes some time and patients...Comment
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Found a five year old post where a guy spoke with Castle on the phone. They recommended 220uf per 4 inches of wire as the minimum protection and up to 400uf per 4 inches as the max. Obviously capacitor voltage must match or exceed what is expected to be used. Battery to esc wires are recommended to be taped together to help reduce inductance. Wires that are separated by as much as an inch can have 4 times the inductance.Comment
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Thanks!! Do you think the heat shrink I have holding them together is sufficient, or should I get out the 3M tape??:Confused:I think as long as they are "touching" each other, that will help with the inductance issue... These are the caps I have coming. 880uf and 50.4 v (12s) max voltage. I am running 6s (25.2v) One pack per motor... ;)Comment
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Back to some more mundane stuff that has to be done. When it gets exciting again, I will post more pics... I may post a few of the wing after I remove the glow engine firewall hardware...Comment
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I think the heat shrink is a splendid idea, indeed just keeping them together will do the trick.Comment
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Yeah I think that should work perfectlyComment
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