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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan
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I'm going to say you are okay. You could tape a weight to the front of your battery if worried.
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Hey Corsair Crew,
Cable management done, CG is slightly tail heavy (aft) from recommended, say 5mm+tail heavy.
Is there a problem here at that CG, 105mm+?
Due to all the mods up front, I have very limited space for more weights, though I will do what needs to be done.
Suggestions/recommendations.
Best, LB
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Thanks f4u ausie,
I have always poked a bit of the antenna out of the fuselage, homage to my early RC days of the 'long' antennae.
I have not had an issue ever before but I had always gone by the diagrams in my Futaba Owners Manual.
Not going to sweat it, but will do all the range checks, twice.
Thanks again, Brother.
Best, LB
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Hi lb hope u r well.. my 2 cents worth, with my minimal years, take it with a grain of salt.... i have used dynam (detrum) radio since day dot.. never had signal loss.... the rx has 2 wires good length.. only use 1 rx (sr86) gyro 8 chanel.. always have (consistancy).. anyway b4 i saw people doing the 90 dgree thing i always did 180 dgree.. left side right side,, but small hole in foam to expose the wire.. most wont want holes and visual eyesores, i get that.. but works 4 me.. point dont no if they need to b 90.... that may or maynot make it easier 4 u.. and as u no i have an f4 that i LOVE ,,and i upgrded to spectrum.. its a single wire ar631 gyro as3x etc. Dx7 buts its also exposed at the top ... dont if any of this helps.. but hope it does,, b safe and heres couple pics
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Hey Gang,
Question about RX antenna placement.
I fly Futaba R2008SB Rx's with duel antennae.
I have not had a problem with antenna placement with any other airframe, but due to the abundance of extras
I have a great deal of wiring, servos, and whatnot with very limited free space to run the antennae at 90o to one another.
My solution is to split the leads one going one way and down to the fuselage bottom (all good) though the other will run across the fuselage width opposite the Rx body by some length.
By doing that, the antennae ends are now 6" plus apart, but running at 90o.
The question: Is this acceptable radio reception procedure, am I good to run these leads this way?
Any assist is immensely appreciated.
Best, LB
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If you need a bit more power, here's a possibility! Maybe a bit large, but it would probably get your airplane into the air!
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Suggest you just use a 12 V car battery to power all those lights and operating mods.Originally posted by Elbee View PostI was planning on adding a 6 volt RX pack to assist in powering the additional lights.
Best, LB
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Sounds like your almost there for the first test ride. Elbee. May the sky gods smile down on you. After 2 years of looking at mine and flying the heck out of sport planes I finally got two test flights on my E-Flite FW-190 and the Corsair is next in line. Plan to add a pilot and your cowl flaps this winter.
Best Regards, Rex
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Originally posted by f4u ausie View PostEver inventive steve,, im thinking its a little heavier, with all those exquiset mods,, might b in the air soon😀



Oh, it is heavier.
The 'good news'
is I was planning on adding a 6 volt RX pack to assist in powering the additional lights.
So, I think I am going to spot on the recommended C of G with the 2 extra weights.
Fingers crossed.
Yes, 1st check flight soon.

Best, LB
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Ever inventive steve,, im thinking its a little heavier, with all those exquiset mods,, might b in the air soon😀
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Hey Guys and Dolls,
Had to add all the OEM Weights to my Bubble Top Corsair and literally had no filament tape.
I designed and printed a quick fix some of you might find useful.
Attached are photos and the STL file.
I used a "dab" of E6000 glue on each weight and the 2 outside posts of the bar.
Happy Labor Day, btw.
Best, LB
[ATTACH]n409853[/ATTACH]
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Understood. You just happened to be the first customer in this case...
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To add, often times it's the customer who will notify CS to say something isn't accurate on a product page, whether an incorrect recommendation or something else. I really wish that didn't have to be the case, but unless the manufacturer is providing us with the precise and proper specs/requires, things like that do happen.
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The problem is once the product page is created (in this case, several years ago) the only way we would know if there is a new feature is if a manager or someone working with the manufacturer lets us know so we can make the proper updates. It's also more often than you might assume that manufacturers will make updates without informing us. I can't tell you how often that occurs. And it's usually CS at that point that will notify the Web Team so we can make the appropriate updates, and in this case something I will do today.Originally posted by Evan D View PostIt seems FreeWing is converting the majority of their planes to reversing ESCs. Since Flightline is made by them I guess they are too. Since you work for their largest reseller you should be telling us.
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It seems FreeWing is converting the majority of their planes to reversing ESCs. Since Flightline is made by them I guess they are too. Since you work for their largest reseller you should be telling us.
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Great questions! My original bubble top did not have reverse thrust but this one obviously does. I think that is most definitely something to look into. I rarely deal with timing for my ESCs but I need to look into that, thanks for pointing it out.Originally posted by BirdTree View Post
A reviewer on the Motion site for the Bird Cage version said this.
" Great Warbird!"
"The newest versions come with the reversing ESC"
(((BUT))) He also said this.
"Be careful as this is NOT the old ESC and the timing is different. My maiden seemed “slow”. Had power but not much speed. I programmed the ESC to set brake type from reverse to disabled and changed the timing to high. MUCH faster and flys like the old ESC version now!!"
Aros, could the high esc setting help with the strange noise problem ?
I was wondering. Couldn't you still set the timing to high but keep reverse thrust enabled ?
Aros, You have the Blue version right not the Bird Cage ? And it came with reverse thrust correct ?
Anyone else have any comments regarding the newer version ESC/reverse thrust?
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Hope im not butting in here,, been on the squawk a bit now..i remember somethink about aluminum tape.. maybe on diifferent thread ...was wondering if that p40 was that one(6006) and am i right to think grossman owns that p40.. MY memory failing already??? LOL OR WAS IT HARDWAYOriginally posted by BirdTree View PostThank You Elbee.
Anything close to that silver would be great. It actually looks silver. Seems like most silver paints, look more like aluminum and not that shiny, silver/chrome kind of look that would be nice to have.
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A reviewer on the Motion site for the Bird Cage version said this.Originally posted by Aros View PostI see that I have this stray single wire lead coming out of the ESC main lead titled “reverse brake”. This bird doesn’t have a reverse brake feature as far as I know. ]
" Great Warbird!"
"The newest versions come with the reversing ESC"
(((BUT))) He also said this.
"Be careful as this is NOT the old ESC and the timing is different. My maiden seemed “slow”. Had power but not much speed. I programmed the ESC to set brake type from reverse to disabled and changed the timing to high. MUCH faster and flys like the old ESC version now!!"
Aros, could the high esc setting help with the strange noise problem ?
I was wondering. Couldn't you still set the timing to high but keep reverse thrust enabled ?
Aros, You have the Blue version right not the Bird Cage ? And it came with reverse thrust correct ?
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