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Freewing Old Crow
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I'm having issues aligning the rear wheel on my P-51. while adjusting the servos it seem like there was a binding from the retracted tail wheel when moving the rudder. I had just centered the wheel in the extended position using the servo horn adjusting screw. I opened the rear wheel hatch and unplugged the door servo. I could then see that when the wheel is retracted after centering it doesn't have enough room on the rod where the pivot is so when moving the rudder in one direction it pushes the rod and binds. I have tried to adjust this wheel any way I can including trying to move it with the set screw on the wheel shaft. the only way I can get the wheel to not bind when retracted results in the wheel in an almost full right direction when deployed.
Any help would be awesome. Thanks3 Photos
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Tom, this is a quirk in the airframe construction that never was corrected. You basically have two choices: align the tailwheel so that it rolls straight when extended, and just ignore the sound of the wheel steering servo when retracted…or do what I and others have done, and put the tailwheel steering servo on a separate channel and that stops the shared movement of the tailwheel and rudder when retracted.
DB
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After months of flying only jets, I decided to take Old Crow out for 3 flights today. Had a great time getting reaquainted with the rudder and landing characteristics of a taildragger warbird. Ah, it was so worth it.
However, I saw that some of the lower wing surface servo wire channel cover tape was separating, so after a lot of searching for comparible 3/4” tape, I settled for 3M grey electrical tape. Not a good color match at all and very soft and shows ripples.
Has anybody found a better product as close as possible to factory for this purpose?
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As for the tape, I've just used chrome Duct Tape, now, it can be painted I've found Delta Creative Ceramcoat Metallic Silver and Sargent Art metallic acrylic silver to be pretty close matches to the stock color. You can always take a piece of the airplane and have it scanned at Home Depot or Ace Hardware and get a sample can. I have used white electrical tape and painted over it with ese and it was pretty good.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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philthephlier2
Etracts do not generally come with the strut pins. Every 1400-1500mm sized Freewing/Flightline/FMS non - 90-degree rotating etracts are without the pins and usually come with the strut or as a separate item.Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Originally posted by n99jh1 View PostHas anyone changed the plastic firewall that holds the motor? Mine is cracked and I need to replace it. Thanks for any help/advice.
I posted a method here.
Meanwhile, back at the field, I took Old Crow out to see if the gear change helped. Got two flights on her, first takeoff was okay, second was a little shaky, landings were great on both. I had to cycle the gear a couple of times on both flights, but got them in place eventually. She flew very well once trimmed up, for some reason, that 650kv out performs the ones I have in the other airplanes, don't know why, I've recalibrated them all, but hey, they fly so what the heck. Now, Old Crow got up the last time out, but the one retract froze half way down, so a one wheel landing with surprisingly no damage was made. Replaced the one retract with a spare I had from My Little Gal II since I just replaced everything on her from the retract down. I'll play around with the gear door attachment to see if spreading it out a bit more helps. Over all, I'm pleased to see her fly again, it's been years as I junked her out to keep MLG II flying. Thanks to Lon's generous donation of all his spare parts, I was able to reassemble her into flying condition, Thanks Lon!
As you can see, a beautiful morning out at the field, very little to no wind this is at about 7:30.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Grossman, I follow your advise to replace the OEM motor with 650KV Predator motor. I run it on 5S from the very maiden flight. Very impressed with power and speed, but on the 5th flight all of a sudden the plane vibrates, battery hatch flew off. Went home and reinforced the firewall with gorilla glue. On the 6th flight, the X motor bracket loose. When I bench tested the motor, apparently the stock 2 bladed propeller flexes and vibrates so much on full throttle, and it managed to crack the X motor bracket (must be a brutal power). Has anyone had this experience? Going downgrade to 4s set up will suck, and slow. I'm thinking to try the 4 bladed propeller on 5S, since it's shorter blades
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st3ntor Sir, looking at the motor mounting plate and the screws you used, to me that's the culprit. I would suggest buying a new plate, probably one that fits the motor. So that you don't have to drill it out. You'll probably have to do something to fill in the holes at the motor mount in the plane. And also check it for structural integrity and make sure it's still solidly attached to the fuselage. Your screws look big. My guess is that the plate cracked from over torqued screws. I'm thinking if you remounted the motor and assembly, In addition to balancing the prop, that you shouldn't have an issue.
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Originally posted by st3ntor View PostGrossman, I follow your advise to replace the OEM motor with 650KV Predator motor. I run it on 5S from the very maiden flight. Very impressed with power and speed, but on the 5th flight all of a sudden the plane vibrates, battery hatch flew off. Went home and reinforced the firewall with gorilla glue. On the 6th flight, the X motor bracket loose. When I bench tested the motor, apparently the stock 2 bladed propeller flexes and vibrates so much on full throttle, and it managed to crack the X motor bracket (must be a brutal power). Has anyone had this experience? Going downgrade to 4s set up will suck, and slow. I'm thinking to try the 4 bladed propeller on 5S, since it's shorter blades
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Hi, Peeps. Happy new year...happy flying and all that happy thing for you all first of all.
A bit update of my previous flying mishap.
Grossman, I tried flying it with 4s, and swapped the motor back with original freewing motor and its mounting. No luck, the motor was still vibrating in the air and made an emergency landing.
Out of desperation, I made a few modifications and I have had successful flying at least 6 times.
First I made my own motor mounting with square shape instead of typical cross shape.
Second, I gorilla glued a 0.5mm carbon fiber plate on to the firewall and shoved it into place, just to make sure the firewall has more surface to grip on the foamy.
I found the battery mounting balsa plate apparently has cracked from the propeller vibration. I think this the main cause why I could not get rid of the vibration after initial repair.
So third modification was replacing it with 3mm carbon fiber plate. I sanded the bottom plate and epoxy glued it on the foamy.
So far so good, no issue with vibration anymore, but I'm also more careful on the throttle. I don't do sudden throttle up, I just gently increase the throttle.
But next issue, I have a faulty port side retract. Jesus...this hobby is a money pit and time consuming to repair...happy days 😖😖😖😢
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