Originally posted by Konrad
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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread
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rc flyin addict
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Actually I was concerned with the fin keeping the tail high, driving the nose in the ground. The resulting spear sticking into the ground would likely snap the fuselage in front and aft of the wing.
In the air they have proven to be nice as long as you don't have to add too much nose weight to keep balanced.
I did a drive shaft with an I.C. engine on a BD-5, you don't want that!
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The plane has a scoop on the bottom mid ship so she might balance on that a bit, the simple layout could make for a tough plane. I guess you would have to lay one out to see how the balance works out, the nose pretty long so maybe the battery could keep the cg in range. Sorry the off topic but guess we're running out of things to talk about without any P-38's to play with, won't be long though :o)rc flyin addict
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Originally posted by roys001 View PostThis is the first time I've participated in a preorder. I'm so exited to receive this bird and get it in the air. I'm looking forward to doing those low presentation fly by's. Flying formation with the Alpha Squadron will fun and will look great!!!
Ps: I'd really like a big spitty, wildcat, and a nice 109 first thanks flightline. Plus 1 on good retracts, though I gotta say in over 300 plus flights of my bigger fms birds (both grass and bitumen), I've only bent one of the struts and that landing was more of a crash than a landing... Reliability is my issue with em. But, I can honestly say I've only had one landing where I got it totally wrong enough to break something in the fms birds, they've been OK for strength for me for the most part. The grub screw system, toe in toe out etc could use improvement.
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I hope to maiden my Allied Green on the 26th or 27th this month if the earliest ETAs work out...Still on target to arrive at our warehouse mid-month.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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I've gathered up 2.75" and 3" wheels, 10, 12, and 14 gauge silicon wire, a bunch of ESC and battery connectors, and three 5000 4S batteries. I figure on a couple of days for set-up and mods, then a maiden on the first calm day. I will probably hold off on applying the decals until after a few flights. I recently retired, so time is on my side.I hate that motorcycle they make me ride. I'm here to tell you, there ain't nothing in the world I hate more than that elephant under my ass.
-Officer John Wintergreen-
ElectraGlide in Blue, 1973
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Originally posted by FLTRI View PostI've gathered up 2.75" and 3" wheels, 10, 12, and 14 gauge silicon wire, a bunch of ESC and battery connectors, and three 5000 4S batteries. I figure on a couple of days for set-up and mods, then a maiden on the first calm day. I will probably hold off on applying the decals until after a few flights. I recently retired, so time is on my side.
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Originally posted by Alpha.MotionRC View Post
Also shown is larger 3.0" size Dubro. This requires forward raking the strut with a ~4mm shim to fit inside the stock wheel well. For ease of use, I think between the two Dubros the 2.75" wheel is the better choice because the visual difference is very slight and the 2.75" requires nearly zero effort to install.
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Originally posted by xviper2 View Post
Referring back to this old post, just so I'm clear on the concept..... The 4mm shim goes under the rear part of the retract? Is this because the 3" tire will hit the top of the wheel well when retracted? Is there enough foam to gouge out to make the tire clear without the shim or is there something else at play here? Raking the strut forward would mean the tire would be closer to the closed doors but will still allow the doors to fully shut? I already have a set of P-51 wheels laying around. Just trying to get the idea clear in my mind.
Originally posted by Alpha.MotionRC View PostThe Pacific Silver P-38 uses Dubro 3.00" Low Bounce on the mains, and Dubro 2.75" Low Bounce Treaded on the nose. Zero modification is needed to the shaft, strut, hub, or wheel. Everything fits, which was a surprise since I didn't anticipate the 3.00" wheel fitting the bay without any shimming of the retract. But, it does fit and works great.
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Originally posted by PlaneCrazy View Post
Same here............including retirement. I've ever bought a MRRCsound system and will try to find a place to install it as well.
It should fit, PlaneCrazy, there's space for a hatch to be cut aft of the motor firewalls, to access the hollow chamber inside. Push the ESCs as far back as they'll go and you should be able to mount a transducer inside there without too many problems.Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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Originally posted by Alpha.MotionRC View Post
It should fit, PlaneCrazy, there's space for a hatch to be cut aft of the motor firewalls, to access the hollow chamber inside. Push the ESCs as far back as they'll go and you should be able to mount a transducer inside there without too many problems.
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Bajora came down this weekend and we got some good flying in with Xplaneguy, Evelyn, MigAceKiller, and several others. It's always nice to fly with friends, old and new! We have a month's worth of footage to sort through now. Here's a fun one of Xplaneguy, flying upright through a cave of inverted hanging trees. I think my camera was upside down when I shot this?1 PhotoLive Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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WOW, looks like a great time.
As a matter of interest and I've been meaning to ask everyone this.
Months ago, I start a picture file with mostly my airplane pics, be they 1/32 models to full sized DC3s and set it up to be my desktop pics. Since then, whenever I've found some great airplane pics, mostly R/C, I've saved them in this file. I can tell you right now that its getting to be a big file, but its such a great desktop, never fails to make me stop an check out what's up.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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