Originally posted by Oxotnik
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
New E-flite Fw-190A, 1.5m
Collapse
X
-
-
Originally posted by starcop View Post
You can measure the retract mounting holes. Then, replace them with a nicer quality retract. I'm sure Motion RC will have a set from other airplanes that will drop right in. They're not expensive but more reliable. If a retract fails once, for no understood reason. I'd recommend replacing both. Best of research is the way to go in this situation. You will find a set that will replace, the inop ones you have.---
Warbirder
Comment
-
Originally posted by Oxotnik View PostI’m using color-matched latex paint from Home Depot. The colors are EFlite’s version of RLM 76 (bottom and sides), RLM 74 and RLM 75 (upper surfaces camo). Here are the color codes (satin):
For airbrushing, I mix 4 oz of paint, 1.5 oz of Windex, and 1oz of Floetrol (storing the mixture in an 8-oz squeeze bottle with two 3/16” nuts for agitation) and it airbrushes beautifully. The color-matched RLM 76 is a near perfect match to the stock paint. Floetrol is a flow stabilizer for acrylic and latex paint. It helps the latex flow better through the airbrush and not clog up the nozzle. The downside to using Floetrol is that it significantly increases the cure time of the latex paint. Although, I like paint with fast cure times, I’m willing to accept the longer cure time (hours, instead of minutes, to be able to handle).
I probably could have gotten away with simply over-painting the polka dots, but I’m going to be changing the dorsal surfaces to an RLM 70 and 75 pattern. I am planning to leave the wings and horizontal stab alone.
The decals are vinyl and they pull up easily, but they will pull the paint off with them. I did no extra clean up, nor did I use primer. I went straight to RLM 76 topcoat.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Arycon View Post
I'm considering picking this bird up. I love warbirds but don't have any German birds. I don't care for the finish or scheme on this one. I agree they could have done so much better. I'm good with an airbrush myself and I'm curious what the body looks like after you took off the vinyl decals. in my experience with E-flite, it always leaves the foam rough and patchy, and I hate it. I've tried smoothing it out but I can always see the difference in the foam. How bad was it after you took off the decals? Is it really noticeable? It will drive me nuts if I cannot get a bird that size with a smooth finish.
Chuck---
Warbirder
Comment
-
Arycon There are few planes that I would pay as much as they are charging for this one. I'll reserve my true review of it until I've flown it. I imagine it will fly well. The utube videos we've seen so far have done a great job in showing how it performs in less than ideal adverse flying conditions but no one has done a proper flight with it, just my opinion. All of that said, if it flies as well as it looks, I can see it being an all time favorite. The quality is that good.
Which is a clouded lie coming from an rc plane enthusiast!🙂 I have a few all time favorites!
Comment
-
Over on RCG, I posted quite a bit yesterday on workmanship problems that I found as I was assembling my 190.
1. The elevator pushrod is small gage and long, and was unconstrained with in the fuselage. The pushrod was bowing severely in compression (Elevator Up). I had to glue a 10” long piece of Depron alongside the elevator pushrod tube, to keep the pushrod from bowing.
2. The hard-mounted servo connectors in the wing saddle and outer wing interface are total crap. Several times, a pin got shoved out of the connector. In both the wing saddle and the outboard interface, I went to a soft-mount connection. I unscrewed the multi-connector from one side of the interface and manually mated the connectors before structurally mating the wing sections. At the wing saddle, I added 6” servo extensions between the RX and the fuselage-side connector. After manually mating the ‘free’ fuselage-side connector to the hard-mounted wing-side connector, I shoved the wires back into the fuselage as I structurally mated the wing to the fuselage.
I have to admit, I was quite disappointed to have found these design/workmanship problems in an overly expensive foam model. I’ve been down on EFlite products for several years now, mostly due to their price point. Unless EFlite releases a nice FW-190D-9, or some other novel Axis warbird), this will be the last EFlite product that I buy new.
Now that my whining is over, here’s my repainted 190. I’m about 90% finished. I still need to add the White 5 and dirty her up with the exhaust and gunpowder residue. The plane that I have modeled is Walter Nowotny’s JG-54 Weiss 5, although this plane was probably never actually assigned to Nowotny. I like it because it uses non-regulation RLM 70 on the dorsal surfaces on an RLM 74/75/76 aircraft.
Here’s a primary source B/W photo of the subject aircraft.
And here’s my hack at it.
There are a few modeling escapes. One is the spinner. I’ll most likely repaint it RLM 70. I also need to add a few dark splotches to the mottling below the cockpit. And it appears that the Green Heart wasn't actually on this model. But, I'll take the scale point deduction. A Nowotny Wurger has to be a Grunherz!!! :-)---
Warbirder
- Likes 3
Comment
-
Hello everyone, I assembled mine today and for some reason the gear and flaps won't work. I am using a setup profile provided by spektrum's website, so I know things are setup correctly. all other channels on the model work correctly. Is this a known issue and is there a work-around?
thanks.
Comment
-
It's the connection in the wing to fuse. I plugged mine in and the gear wouldn't go down. I looked at the connection and it's as Oxotnik stated, the pins are crap. They are totally loose and weren't lining up. I got them to align while reassembling, straight away the gear comes down. This is extremely disappointing. I probably won't remove the inner wing from the fuse much but for what we've paid, it should work without worrying about it everytime we fly.
Comment
-
Originally posted by SanExup View PostIt's the connection in the wing to fuse. I plugged mine in and the gear wouldn't go down. I looked at the connection and it's as Oxotnik stated, the pins are crap. They are totally loose and weren't lining up. I got them to align while reassembling, straight away the gear comes down. This is extremely disappointing. I probably won't remove the inner wing from the fuse much but for what we've paid, it should work without worrying about it everytime we fly.
Comment
-
I've found that rigidly mounted servo connectors at wing interfaces are more of a failure risk than they are a benefit. They're a great idea in theory, but I consider them to be a failure in application. Luckily, I don't have to take wings of planes that are 1.6m or smaller. So, now that I've got my 190 put together and functioning, I won't be taking the wing off for transportation.
Have any of you also found unsupported (and bowing) elevator or rudder push rods? Or was mine just a single bad installation? Even with the elevator pushrod sleeve supported, the elevator pushrod still wants to bow a bit in between the control horn and where the pushrod leaves the fuselage. Not badly, but it wants to bow. I'll mostly likely replace that crappy pushrod with a more beefy pushrod.---
Warbirder
Comment
-
Oxotnik I haven't specifically looked at it. But it was something that caught my attention as I was painting. As I installed the horizontal stabs, I remember pushing on the control rod a little and not feeling the servo move but had flex. In the back of my mind I thought to check it, but just wasn't there yet. And then reading your post today I knew immediately that this is what I was feeling and that I will need to fix it. I will verify it tomorrow but I'm 98% sure that mine is the same.
I did contact HH about the connector. They are saying someone will contact me tomorrow via email. I don't expect much and will probably just move on with the extensions like you've done. It will fit fine in my truck with the center wing section attached to the fuse. It will mean one or two less planes to the field but that might save on some hanger rash
Comment
-
Gotta say that I am not impressed by these initial issues. I agree that for what this plane costs, there should be no problems like this out of the box. I certainly don't want to be worried about the central connector that operates the entire wing.
I just lost an E-flite 1.2m Corsair for unknown reasons (appeared to be signal loss but haven't diagnosed) but that plane was 3 or 4 years old with a lot of flights on it. A brand new plane is not something we should have to modify in respect to pushrods and wing connections. I wouldn't be removing the wing once installed so my expectation would need to be 100% confidence that connection will be solid every flight.
Feeling like I may pass on this one for a time to see what the growing pains are like.
Comment
-
"Good things come to those who wait" ', always seems like a hopeful recommendation. How long you have to wait is the question. The bell has been ringing for a few years asking for a FlightLine FW190. Hopefully, Motion is holding it's ace card to throw at this product seeing that many are discovering it's a bit of a troubled sheep in Focke Wulf's clothing. Anyway, here's hoping a better butcher bird emerges from the FlightLine nest....
- Likes 1
Comment
Comment