Official FlightLine 1600mm B-25J Mitchell PNP Thread

[Grossman56]

Not ignoring fellas, just wanted you to know I am on vacation and when I get back next Monday I will see if I can get the requested info.

Was that YOU out at our field then??

Grossman56

[Fast N Light]

Updates to the spare parts have been made.

[Spad Driver]

So gentlemen,
the Wallsburg Warbird Works is proud to announce the acquisition of a Flightline B-25J!.
Absolutely one of my all time favorite aircraft!.
Seriously considering changing the paint for something a bit more pacific theater weather faded olive drab. The markings that I might have Callie make for me are, serial #43-36192 attached to the 498th BS November 1944 named "Jaunty Jo".
Can't wait to see that big box with the pretty blue tape on it!.

[Spad Driver]

Gentlemen,
Here at the Wallsburg Warbird Works, we have had to improve the transparencies on many of our award winning IPMS 1/72 scale models.
the plastics used for the clear parts are a bit different but the techniques are still the same.
First carefully clean with dawn dish soap to remove any oils or mold release present on both sides of clear part if possible. Use only pure cotton swabs to clean with as anything else will leave scratches on the surface. Wear vinyl or rubber gloves to prevent finger prints adding oils back onto parts.
allow the part to air dry completely. Check against a light for water spots or any missed spots requiring touch up.
Using SC Johnson's Future acrylic floor polish. ( That's the name it had when I bought my bottle back in the 90's. And its still good!.).
good. Fill a container large enough to completely submerge your part in with the acrylic floor polish. Using tongs or a pair of forceps dip your part into the acrylic. Allow the excess to drain off. And set it on a paper towel to pull excess polish off of the edges.
you'll be amazed at how it will dry to a crystal clear ,distortion free transparent finish. With no yellowing with age. The finish is extremely tough and will last a very long time.
Now if you have frame work that you want to remain with a flat finish rather than gloss, just very carefully paint the acrylic on the individual panes in between with a soft flat brush trying not to touch anything you don't want with a high gloss to it .
If you do make a mistake, it is easy to remove the acrylic with cotton swabb and a touch of household ammonia and water. In fact if youre unhappy with the result. Soaking the part in ammonia and water will remove all of the acrylic.
also if you add a drop of blue or green food coloring to the floor finish, it makes a great transparent color for armored glass in the front windshield of most fighters.
Hope you find this information helpful.
The Wallsburg Warbird Works

[davegee]

Gentlemen,
Here at the Wallsburg Warbird Works, we have had to improve the transparencies on many of our award winning IPMS 1/72 scale models.
the plastics used for the clear parts are a bit different but the techniques are still the same.
First carefully clean with dawn dish soap to remove any oils or mold release present on both sides of clear part if possible. Use only pure cotton swabs to clean with as anything else will leave scratches on the surface. Wear vinyl or rubber gloves to prevent finger prints adding oils back onto parts.
allow the part to air dry completely. Check against a light for water spots or any missed spots requiring touch up.
Using SC Johnson's Future acrylic floor polish. ( That's the name it had when I bought my bottle back in the 90's. And its still good!.).
good. Fill a container large enough to completely submerge your part in with the acrylic floor polish. Using tongs or a pair of forceps dip your part into the acrylic. Allow the excess to drain off. And set it on a paper towel to pull excess polish off of the edges.
you'll be amazed at how it will dry to a crystal clear ,distortion free transparent finish. With no yellowing with age. The finish is extremely tough and will last a very long time.
Now if you have frame work that you want to remain with a flat finish rather than gloss, just very carefully paint the acrylic on the individual panes in between with a soft flat brush trying not to touch anything you don't want with a high gloss to it .
If you do make a mistake, it is easy to remove the acrylic with cotton swabb and a touch of household ammonia and water. In fact if youre unhappy with the result. Soaking the part in ammonia and water will remove all of the acrylic.
also if you add a drop of blue or green food coloring to the floor finish, it makes a great transparent color for armored glass in the front windshield of most fighters.
Hope you find this information helpful.
The Wallsburg Warbird Works

Great suggestions, and I have used them on my plastic models in the past. I don't do all that many plastic models these days, but I was commissioned to do a 1/32 scale RAF P-51 Mustang III with the Malcolm hood and another 1/32 scale Me-163 Komet for a new gallery for the NASM in Washington, DC. I used the above techniques on those two planes and they came out great.

I like the idea of the "armored glass" look with the food coloring. Brilliant! I'll try that on future aircraft that I might build.

[Spad Driver]

I had noticed several postings that there are concerns about the clarity of the windshields and nose plexiglass panels. While I can't control what material is used or how the transparencies are made. There are some remedies for of the problems we face with opaque and blurry transparent plastic.
1. Always clean and remove any dirt, mold release or finger prints with Dawn Dish soap. It leaves the surface static free and ready for any following steps
2. Paint overspray can sometimes be removed with an orange oil based gum and tar remover. Use a cotton swabb just dabbed against the bottle opening. Try not to saturate the swabb. Be careful about rubbing up against paint that you don't want to remove.
Again clean with Dawn to remove the oil when finished.
3. If the transparencies need polish I've had great success with Blue Magic metal polish creme. Again just a dab on a cotton swabb will do for a larger area than you would think. Rubb slowly and gently. You don't want to use pressure and speed ,it will heat up the plastic and cause the surface to melt enough to permanently ruin the transparency. Do smallish areas at a time. Rinse with water. And again clean with Dawn dish soap.
4. THEN try the future floor acrylic treatment.
as a side note when adding food coloring to the acrlic floor finish, a very tiny amout is needed to make the right tint. Three drops off of a sewing needle into half a thimble full of acrylic is what I used to get the right tint for my NF-4C's armored glass.
Light blue tint for most US and allied aircraft
Light green for most USSR and soviet block aircraft
hope this information may be helpful. 🫡

[Spad Driver]

My Freewing NF-4C with the future floor acrylic treatment on the transparencies and the tint on the windscreen

[Elbee]

Spad Driver, as davegee wrote, great tip. I have used clear acrylics as well to accomplish a final finish. What I thought I was seeing in the pictures looked more like flaws in the vacuum forming process. Time will tell if I am seeing things. Best, LB

[Aros]

Hey gents, as promised here is an update on the props. It's not a full disclosure but does provide some clarity.

The blades are the same, but the screws that hold them onto the hub are different.

They made no mention about the hub, but according to pictures from Wes, the hub is different.

[Fast N Light]

Hey gents, as promised here is an update on the props. It's not a full disclosure but does provide some clarity.

The blades are the same, but the screws that hold them onto the hub are different.

They made no mention about the hub, but according to pictures from Wes, the hub is different.

Thanks That's great news. I have some of those blades from the P-38. The new B-25 hub appears to have a metal Y plate. It looks similar to the 1600mm F4U which is an excellent design.

[Grossman56]

Looked to me like the means of securing the hub to the prop shaft is better than on the Tigercat. That would mean replacing the prop shafts as well. Question is will the prop shafts mate up to the stock Tigercat motors?

Grossman56

[Fast N Light]

Made my pre-order on June 27th. Please share the tire ODs so I can buy some Robart wheels from Motion RC.

[Evan D]

Change to the delivery date on the site today. "The first shipment of the B-25s will arrive very late July/very early August, 2023. ".

[SteelRain]

Change to the delivery date on the site today. "The first shipment of the B-25s will arrive very late July/very early August, 2023. ".

Starting to get pushed back already 😒

[Evan D]

Motion is usually on time or early. And they do post what they know, which almost no one else does. While I'm disappointed that they are now from late July to very late July, that's just a few days, a week, in reality.

[Spad Driver]

So we have to wait for Christmas in July for another week or so!.
gives us time to plan our modifications, paint schemes and set up our hangers for the new arrival.
had not even dreamed of this aircraft a month ago, so why be bummed if I'm forced to dream and scheme for few days longer.
Besides it'll take Callie at Callie@callie-graphics.com time to make my markings and send them out anyway.
Motionrc.com, you make my day!...👍🛫

[SteelRain]

Motion is usually on time or early. And they do post what they know, which almost no one else does. While I'm disappointed that they are now from late July to very late July, that's just a few days, a week, in reality.

Yeah I know, it's just the bratty and impatient child in me wanting to open and see my Christmas presents early. I guess the arrival yesterday of the RCGeeks random servo generator I plan on using for the movement of the upper turret has me excited, there's nothing like working bomb bay doors and turrets to really set a model off.

[Evan D]

Anyone planning on making the top turret movable?

[Elbee]

Evan D Hmmm, could be. Best, LB

[Spad Driver]

Ssssshhhh!. Stop spreading that rumor around!.
Chris will be sold out before we get ours!....