Official FlightLine 1600mm B-25J Mitchell PNP Thread

[Spad Driver]

I had noticed several postings that there are concerns about the clarity of the windshields and nose plexiglass panels. While I can't control what material is used or how the transparencies are made. There are some remedies for of the problems we face with opaque and blurry transparent plastic.
1. Always clean and remove any dirt, mold release or finger prints with Dawn Dish soap. It leaves the surface static free and ready for any following steps
2. Paint overspray can sometimes be removed with an orange oil based gum and tar remover. Use a cotton swabb just dabbed against the bottle opening. Try not to saturate the swabb. Be careful about rubbing up against paint that you don't want to remove.
Again clean with Dawn to remove the oil when finished.
3. If the transparencies need polish I've had great success with Blue Magic metal polish creme. Again just a dab on a cotton swabb will do for a larger area than you would think. Rubb slowly and gently. You don't want to use pressure and speed ,it will heat up the plastic and cause the surface to melt enough to permanently ruin the transparency. Do smallish areas at a time. Rinse with water. And again clean with Dawn dish soap.
4. THEN try the future floor acrylic treatment.
as a side note when adding food coloring to the acrlic floor finish, a very tiny amout is needed to make the right tint. Three drops off of a sewing needle into half a thimble full of acrylic is what I used to get the right tint for my NF-4C's armored glass.
Light blue tint for most US and allied aircraft
Light green for most USSR and soviet block aircraft
hope this information may be helpful. 🫡

[davegee]

Gentlemen,
Here at the Wallsburg Warbird Works, we have had to improve the transparencies on many of our award winning IPMS 1/72 scale models.
the plastics used for the clear parts are a bit different but the techniques are still the same.
First carefully clean with dawn dish soap to remove any oils or mold release present on both sides of clear part if possible. Use only pure cotton swabs to clean with as anything else will leave scratches on the surface. Wear vinyl or rubber gloves to prevent finger prints adding oils back onto parts.
allow the part to air dry completely. Check against a light for water spots or any missed spots requiring touch up.
Using SC Johnson's Future acrylic floor polish. ( That's the name it had when I bought my bottle back in the 90's. And its still good!.).
good. Fill a container large enough to completely submerge your part in with the acrylic floor polish. Using tongs or a pair of forceps dip your part into the acrylic. Allow the excess to drain off. And set it on a paper towel to pull excess polish off of the edges.
you'll be amazed at how it will dry to a crystal clear ,distortion free transparent finish. With no yellowing with age. The finish is extremely tough and will last a very long time.
Now if you have frame work that you want to remain with a flat finish rather than gloss, just very carefully paint the acrylic on the individual panes in between with a soft flat brush trying not to touch anything you don't want with a high gloss to it .
If you do make a mistake, it is easy to remove the acrylic with cotton swabb and a touch of household ammonia and water. In fact if youre unhappy with the result. Soaking the part in ammonia and water will remove all of the acrylic.
also if you add a drop of blue or green food coloring to the floor finish, it makes a great transparent color for armored glass in the front windshield of most fighters.
Hope you find this information helpful.
The Wallsburg Warbird Works

Great suggestions, and I have used them on my plastic models in the past. I don't do all that many plastic models these days, but I was commissioned to do a 1/32 scale RAF P-51 Mustang III with the Malcolm hood and another 1/32 scale Me-163 Komet for a new gallery for the NASM in Washington, DC. I used the above techniques on those two planes and they came out great.

I like the idea of the "armored glass" look with the food coloring. Brilliant! I'll try that on future aircraft that I might build.

[Spad Driver]

Gentlemen,
Here at the Wallsburg Warbird Works, we have had to improve the transparencies on many of our award winning IPMS 1/72 scale models.
the plastics used for the clear parts are a bit different but the techniques are still the same.
First carefully clean with dawn dish soap to remove any oils or mold release present on both sides of clear part if possible. Use only pure cotton swabs to clean with as anything else will leave scratches on the surface. Wear vinyl or rubber gloves to prevent finger prints adding oils back onto parts.
allow the part to air dry completely. Check against a light for water spots or any missed spots requiring touch up.
Using SC Johnson's Future acrylic floor polish. ( That's the name it had when I bought my bottle back in the 90's. And its still good!.).
good. Fill a container large enough to completely submerge your part in with the acrylic floor polish. Using tongs or a pair of forceps dip your part into the acrylic. Allow the excess to drain off. And set it on a paper towel to pull excess polish off of the edges.
you'll be amazed at how it will dry to a crystal clear ,distortion free transparent finish. With no yellowing with age. The finish is extremely tough and will last a very long time.
Now if you have frame work that you want to remain with a flat finish rather than gloss, just very carefully paint the acrylic on the individual panes in between with a soft flat brush trying not to touch anything you don't want with a high gloss to it .
If you do make a mistake, it is easy to remove the acrylic with cotton swabb and a touch of household ammonia and water. In fact if youre unhappy with the result. Soaking the part in ammonia and water will remove all of the acrylic.
also if you add a drop of blue or green food coloring to the floor finish, it makes a great transparent color for armored glass in the front windshield of most fighters.
Hope you find this information helpful.
The Wallsburg Warbird Works

[Spad Driver]

So gentlemen,
the Wallsburg Warbird Works is proud to announce the acquisition of a Flightline B-25J!.
Absolutely one of my all time favorite aircraft!.
Seriously considering changing the paint for something a bit more pacific theater weather faded olive drab. The markings that I might have Callie make for me are, serial #43-36192 attached to the 498th BS November 1944 named "Jaunty Jo".
Can't wait to see that big box with the pretty blue tape on it!.

[Fast N Light]

Updates to the spare parts have been made.

[Grossman56]

Not ignoring fellas, just wanted you to know I am on vacation and when I get back next Monday I will see if I can get the requested info.

Was that YOU out at our field then??

Grossman56

[Aros]

Not ignoring fellas, just wanted you to know I am on vacation and when I get back next Monday I will see if I can get the requested info.

[Larry D]

Xt60…

Thanks Evan.

[Elbee]

Sigs1, Congrats and Welcome to Hobby Squawk, Sir. Best, LB

[Sigs1]

Just ordered my B25 can't wait!!!

[Fast N Light]

On it...Our resident Freewing Liaison will be finding out shortly. Stand by.

While we are asking.... could we also get the size of the tires? Robart will look better IMO

[Evan D]

Xt60…

[Larry D]

I can't tell from the photos or videos on this beauty that I have seen, and maybe Aros or one of you guys know? The connectors from the ESC are those XT90's or XT60's that go into the the EC5 adapter? Also curious what drove the incorporation of 50 amp ESCs and 450kv motors when the stock power system of 3748-600kv with 60 amp ESCs (i.e. F7F and P-38) using 4S with XT60 connectors has been proven in 1600mm sized twins for several years. Not questioning the engineering that went into this, just curious and don't get me wrong, I am VERY happy to see the 6S and have felt for a long time that both the Tigercat and the Lightning maybe should have been 6S as stock.

[Aros]

On it...Our resident Freewing Liaison will be finding out shortly. Stand by.

[Grossman56]

Are the B-25 prop blades identical to the P-38 and F7F? Both 12x7x3

I'm thinking the same thing. I was never crazy about how the props attached to the prop shaft on the Tigercat, this system seems better. You might have to swap out the prop shaft too I would think. Aros, you know where we're going with this, is it plausible?

Grossman56

[Aros]

They "appear" to be but I'll get confirmation on that too...

[Red Flyer]

Aros, are the stars and bars also waterslide decals?

RF

[Aros]

I'm going to say yes but I need to confirm...

[Fast N Light]

Are the B-25 prop blades identical to the P-38 and F7F? Both 12x7x3

[Peajay5]

Peajay5 I thought I would never see the day I would like a red Corsair but I stand corrected!

Ahh thank you!!!!! it's really going to be nice on this next build. I'm going to add a clearcoat over it this time