Official FMS 1500mm P-47D Razorback Thread

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  • Elbee
    replied
    jetfool

    As a comparison only, as there is NO substitute for horsepower or spun aluminum prop hubs, the 3DP plastic hub comes in at 0.60 ounces without primer/paint.

    It is a non-structural part and the walls could be thinned, but as you wrote, the FMS P-47 can handle it.

    For the record, there is no doubt that a scale hub spun from aluminum is the real deal IMHO.

    Nicely done, Rex.

    Best, LB

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  • jetfool
    replied
    Working on the alum. spinner. Tip profile is not final yet but the 2pc assembly now weighs 1.95oz. Should be able to reduce this after final shaping. My first version weighed 4.3oz. so I'm going in the right direction. I think the P-47 will handle the weight. Davegee will be the beta tester on his model. He has a lot of experience with the P-47 and can give me his opinion. Elbee is 3d designing the same spinner and will be a lot lighter, but the polished alum really looks nice on my P-47. A picture or two
    Almost midnight so time for bed, Rex

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  • Elbee
    replied
    davegee

    Made a change in the prop hub detail.

    So call this a version mod.

    I resent it via your email as the STL file is now too large to post here.

    Best, LB

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  • jetfool
    replied
    Looks like your weather is headed our way Wednesday. Tired of the wind and rain

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  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by Elbee

    Dave,

    I added some detail to the Curtis Prop Hub.

    The thing is alignment.

    It is totally dependent upon the M10 threaded shaft how that will line up when threaded into place.

    Without the motor's threaded shaft, it is a wild guess.

    In any event, here's the STL. [ATTACH]n426764[/ATTACH]

    Best, Steve

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    Most Excellent,, LB!! That will save me a lot of time and effort for printing out these CE Prop Domes with the additional scale details.. Much appreciated!!! I'll post a pic of the finished V2 when I get this printed. I've ordered paints on Amazon and should be able to have a finished ready to fly part within a couple of weeks. I plan on test flying one of my P-47s with the V1 prop dome tomorrow morning, weather permitting. Today was scratched due to cold, cloudy and windy weather.

    Best,

    Davegee

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  • Elbee
    replied
    jetfool

    There's a bit of truth in that.:trophy:

    I've always wanted to build a better retract for every scale model I've ever built.

    Bit of a Dreamer I suppose, though I used to turn a few parts for my R/C racing cars back in the days of yore.:tools:

    I buddy loaned me his 14 inch mini lathe as long as made him the same parts I was making.

    "Not enough hours in the day without pay." as my Gran-Dad used to say.

    Glad the prop hub is working out, it's been a great exercise in design.:face_with_monocle:

    Much like a decent pilot, wheels/tires and retracts, it is one part on model scale aircraft that seems to always be an OEM shortcut.:persevere:

    I'll have a Phantom update for you soon.:star_struck:

    Best, LB





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  • jetfool
    replied
    Elbee,
    You are a master of 3D design and have a Heart of Gold for doing this for us. Outstanding work.
    I chucked my spinner in the lathe a hand threaded the tap. Came out true to the motor threads and seated against the prop hub perfect. You need to purchase a lathe, you would never leave your shop then. LOL
    Best Regards, Rex

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by davegee

    Thanks, Rex. Copy that you will work out printed spinners with Elbee. Good luck entering your F-4 next year!

    Cheers

    Davegee
    Dave,

    I added some detail to the Curtis Prop Hub.

    The thing is alignment.

    It is totally dependent upon the M10 threaded shaft how that will line up when threaded into place.

    Without the motor's threaded shaft, it is a wild guess.

    In any event, here's the STL. [ATTACH]n426764[/ATTACH]

    Best, Steve

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  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by jetfool
    Davegee,
    I made the flat plate years ago for my yellow P-47. I will look in my notes and find the photo's, 3- view. Simple to make.
    Best Regards, Rex
    Thanks, Rex. Copy that you will work out printed spinners with Elbee. Good luck entering your F-4 next year!

    Cheers

    Davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Davegee,
    I made the flat plate years ago for my yellow P-47. I will look in my notes and find the photo's, 3- view. Simple to make.
    Best Regards, Rex

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by Elbee
    davegee

    It's looks good to me, though I am certainly not an expert in any form on this.

    There is some small detail near the base in a couple pictures, do you think that is worth the effort?

    It appears to be a flat metal plate, a hole at each prop center, and screws that are wire locked.

    Best, Steve

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    Thanks, Elbee. to be quite honest, your mentioning those details in a recent email was the first I had even Known those things exist! Somehow, those details escaped me over the years. Yes, I definitely think that those details are worth adding to these CE prop domes. I plan to do that with these test article spinners. They're small, but not too small to be noticed as fine details in a good scale model. Thanks for bringing that up, should be fun to add those details! Funny, that photo you just posted of the nose of that P-47, a few hours ago I found that same one online, printed it up, and have been studying it for adding these details later. Small world!

    davegee

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  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by jetfool
    Davegee,
    That spinner looks great. I hope my alum. spinners come out as good. Thinking of using plas-ti sheet to make the flat plate and add tiny screws in spinner base. Every little detail I add just improves the scale look. Taxied mine at our grass field and the lower wheel door cover came off. I think the test flight will be flown without them. Those little screws don't have much bite in the plastic to the strut. Went flying today. Beautiful out.

    Best Regards, Rex
    Glad to hear that, Rex. I'm sure your machined CE prop domes will look just like the real thing!

    I have two printed spinners I got from the STLs that Elbee was kind enough to let me have. I'm going to use them as test articles to see how they stand up to flying stresses. I think they'll do fine. I might fly tomorrow morning if the winds aren't too high. We had some pretty intense lightning storms this afternoon, and I might not be able to fly for a few days. Next weekend is a fly-in at our local field, usually some campers come from all over. I generally stay away from those things. Mostly 3D stuff which is fine for them, but I'll always be a warbird guy!

    Let me know if you'd like me to send you one of the test spinners once I'm done with them. Might be nice having a spare in case something happens to one of the others you are making.

    I look forward to hearing about your maiden of "Lucky." I'm sure you'll do fine with it. Those wide gear are always great for takeoffs and landings. One of my favorites to fly,, the FMS 1500mm P-47. If you get a chance sometime, if you could send some pics of your detail work of the base of the CE prop dome, that would be helpful as I want to add those details to these test spinners, too.

    Cheers

    Davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Davegee,
    That spinner looks great. I hope my alum. spinners come out as good. Thinking of using plas-ti sheet to make the flat plate and add tiny screws in spinner base. Every little detail I add just improves the scale look. Taxied mine at our grass field and the lower wheel door cover came off. I think the test flight will be flown without them. Those little screws don't have much bite in the plastic to the strut. Went flying today. Beautiful out.

    Best Regards, Rex

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    davegee

    It's looks good to me, though I am certainly not an expert in any form on this.

    There is some small detail near the base in a couple pictures, do you think that is worth the effort?

    It appears to be a flat metal plate, a hole at each prop center, and screws that are wire locked.

    Best, Steve

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  • davegee
    replied
    Hi Steve: I didn't see an interior profile yet, but I can see through the CE prop dome as I look at it from behind. I think it will be plenty strong, based on a similar profile we did 2 years ago. There shouldn't be much stress on this prop dome as all the stress is on the nut and prop hub behind it. I flew several flights with the one we came up with and it has never been an issue.

    I like the shape of your CE prop dome more than what we came up with back then. I printed two of them that I plan to test on two of my jugs. I might be able to do that tomorrow and sometime next week, weather permitting. I'll attach a pic I just took of one hand torqued to the prop shaft of "Ole Cock." The M10 150 tap you suggested worked out great.

    Cheers

    Davegee

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  • Elbee
    replied
    davegee

    Did you take a look at the interior profile?

    Since there is little stress I simply tried to make it light in weight.

    I 'borrowed' that structure from what I have seen in designs from other spinners.

    It is similar to what I had done for the Flightline Spitfire and Flightline Corsair.

    Thanks for the update and I'm looking forward to your review at a later date.

    Best as always, Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by davegee

    Hi Steve: I've got the printer warming up now! I'll let you know how it goes. I think Rex is still planning to make me a machined aluminum hub for my plane, so I could send this one to him if he wants it and isn't going to machine his own CE dome. Is always good to have a spare on hand just in case....

    Thanks so much!

    Davegee
    Hi Steve: print went very well. I'll pick up a tap for it tomorrow at Ace. I like your profile of this bullet shaped prop dome, better than what we came up with over 2 years ago. After I sand and prep it, I'll probably use some Alclad alumiinum paints to paint it. Should be able to test it in the next week or so with my Ol' Cock P-47D that had the CE prop on it. Will keep U advised!

    Thanks again!

    Cheers

    Davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by Elbee

    P-47 Curtis Prop Hub_v2.stl

    Dave,

    Give this a go.

    I will print one later today or overnight.

    I enlarged the base opening where the thrust washer and nut are to 0.906"

    The thread is M10 150 and I would run a tap through it by hand after printing.

    The only place it should require 'support material' in the hollowed opening for the thrust washer and nut.

    Extra detail could be added at the base to simulate the flat metal flange, the locking nuts with wire and holes for alignment, but I digress .

    Let me know how it goes...

    Best, LB
    Hi Steve: I've got the printer warming up now! I'll let you know how it goes. I think Rex is still planning to make me a machined aluminum hub for my plane, so I could send this one to him if he wants it and isn't going to machine his own CE dome. Is always good to have a spare on hand just in case....

    Thanks so much!

    Davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by davegee

    Hi Elbee: if you still need the specs on the thrust washer and nut:

    the thrust washer is 0.8655 inches in diameter

    the prop nut maximum diameter measured from point to point across the nut as it spins, is .7335 inches, so it looks like it would barely clear a .75 inch diameter hole, in theory, anyway.

    cheers

    dg
    P-47 Curtis Prop Hub_v2.stl

    Dave,

    Give this a go.

    I will print one later today or overnight.

    I enlarged the base opening where the thrust washer and nut are to 0.906"

    The thread is M10 150 and I would run a tap through it by hand after printing.

    The only place it should require 'support material' in the hollowed opening for the thrust washer and nut.

    Extra detail could be added at the base to simulate the flat metal flange, the locking nuts with wire and holes for alignment, but I digress .

    Let me know how it goes...

    Best, LB
    Attached Files

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  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by Elbee
    davegee

    In your first picture of the thrust washer, nut, and shaft, what is the diameter of that thrust washer?

    Will 3/4" hole be large enough?

    Best, LB
    Hi Elbee: if you still need the specs on the thrust washer and nut:

    the thrust washer is 0.8655 inches in diameter

    the prop nut maximum diameter measured from point to point across the nut as it spins, is .7335 inches, so it looks like it would barely clear a .75 inch diameter hole, in theory, anyway.

    cheers

    dg

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