New "compatible" Heng Long 6.0 IR receiver test results

[Rubicon99]

I'm talking about the 5 pin plug to mount the receiver on my turret and the proper guage wire to extend the leads. I can only buy this in bulk rolls of about 200 meters

That all comes with the IR receiver. If for some reason it does not it’s all available on Amazon in small quantities. The wires are nothing special they only need to be rated to handle 3.5 volts. Basically you can reuse the factory wires if need. I have a few times and will again at some point.

[Sappo]

I'm talking about the 5 pin plug to mount the receiver on my turret and the proper guage wire to extend the leads. I can only buy this in bulk rolls of about 200 meters

[Rubicon99]

It's probably in this thread but where is a good site to buy all the plugs and wires for the lego ir receiver. I have 5 tanks to modify, not 700 which is the minimum amount the local retailer will sell me.

The LegDEI receivers come with the plugs last I was aware.

[Sappo]

It's probably in this thread but where is a good site to buy all the plugs and wires for the lego ir receiver. I have 5 tanks to modify, not 700 which is the minimum amount the local retailer will sell me.

[Sureshot]

The pill box has two modes, one which flashes once when hit, and one mode which flashes the hit count up to five and then resets on the next shot.
To change modes you have to shoot it within a few seconds of turning it on.
I just got my tank mine and it was missing the jumpers so I have not been able to use it much yet.
From my understanding, the red LED should flash when it is hit and the return fire is triggered by the motion of the tank.
Steve

[Dragonking24]

Dear All, couldn't get a clear reply from Etsy, so hope this to be more responsive. Could I get some more info on Legodei's anti-tank mine and pillbox ? Tried it out today, and the pillbox lights up when shot, which is the purpose. I suppose it doesn't have any hit points, and just confirms when being hit ? Anything else I should know ? Regarding the anti-tank mine, I noticed the two-shot protocol; it does fire two consecutive times, picked up by the IR receiver on my tank. What is the interval supposed to be between shots, and can it be modified ? I tried to shoot it, but it didn't indicate a hit (fyi jumpers still in place as delivered). Finally, is something supposed to trigger the fire function of the anti-tank mine (a hit received, proximity, etc) ? Sry for the bunch of questions, but couldn't figure out the finer details of their function based on the info on the pictures. Thanks in advance.

[OKC_Jim]

Try Hansen Hobbies.

Thanks Quityourbitchen, but I'm not seeing what I THINK I need.

I think I need something like this

https://www.peconnectors.com/female-headers-pcb-1x-row-.100/hws15770/

But with long pins like this

https://www.peconnectors.com/female-headers-pcb-1x-row-.100/hws16440/

But that has 6 pins, not 5. I realize I could just not use the extra pin if the rest of it is the right size.

[quitcherbitchen]

Try Hansen Hobbies. Everything will cost around $11-15. Not sure about HL, but my clark boards can't actually hit themselves.

[OKC_Jim]

I have seen some 5 pin male/female connectors that could be used as “extensions” to raise the height of the IR receiver. I don’t have a link to them but I am sure a Google or Amazon search will turn them up.

I've been searching and seen a few that looked promising but I'm afraid I'll order a 100 (due to minimum order size or something) and then they won't be the right size or something. lol

Not really a good way to test your HL tank without another to shoot at it with. You can try to “bounce” a shot off a mirror or white surface. These can sometimes cause hits on yourself with the HL systems.

I was afraid of that. My best course of action is probably to wait until my stuff to upgrade my StuG shows up. I'm in the mood to work now. I was hoping there was something constructive I could be doing. lol

[Rubicon99]

Thanks for your comments, Rubicon. Sounds like I was overthinking it and 'clean' air isn't as big a deal as I imagined it to be.

Another questions. Say I decide to mount it in the loader's hatch as shown by Beeg but would like the receiver a bit higher BUT I still want the plug hidden inside the hatch. Is there a simple way of making the rigid male plugs on the bottom of the IR receiver longer? Say that I wanted the plugs currently sticking out of the IR receiver to be 5/8" instead of 1/4" to buy me an extra 3/8" of height? Keeping in mind my goal it to not use flexible wires that I'll then have to figure out a way of making rigid.

Final question. I currently only have 1 IR capable tank. Stuff I ordered to convert my StuG was lost in the mail. My initial plan was to convert my StuG first and use the Sherman to 'shoot' at it. Then convert the Sherman using the StuG to shoot at it. But that is on hold until the package is recovered or resent. Besides another IR capable tank, what can I use to 'shoot' at my Sherman to check that it can be hit from all directions from at least 25' away?

Thanks.

Jim

I have seen some 5 pin male/female connectors that could be used as “extensions” to raise the height of the IR receiver. I don’t have a link to them but I am sure a Google or Amazon search will turn them up.

Not really a good way to test your HL tank without another to shoot at it with. You can try to “bounce” a shot off a mirror or white surface. These can sometimes cause hits on yourself with the HL systems.

[OKC_Jim]

I have extensive experience with the DEI receivers. The photos above clearly show it placed in a location that will allow it to be hit easily.

The LegoDEI receiver is very sensitive and they use 4 IR receiver “bulbs” vs the 1 that Tamiya and HL use. They are less susceptible to “deflection” from obstructions so can be mount much tighter to the turret (low profile). Even still you should test the location and height to ensure that the receiver can be reliably hit from all sides (at least 25ft away) before securing it....

Thanks for your comments, Rubicon. Sounds like I was overthinking it and 'clean' air isn't as big a deal as I imagined it to be.

Another questions. Say I decide to mount it in the loader's hatch as shown by Beeg but would like the receiver a bit higher BUT I still want the plug hidden inside the hatch. Is there a simple way of making the rigid male plugs on the bottom of the IR receiver longer? Say that I wanted the plugs currently sticking out of the IR receiver to be 5/8" instead of 1/4" to buy me an extra 3/8" of height? Keeping in mind my goal it to not use flexible wires that I'll then have to figure out a way of making rigid.

Final question. I currently only have 1 IR capable tank. Stuff I ordered to convert my StuG was lost in the mail. My initial plan was to convert my StuG first and use the Sherman to 'shoot' at it. Then convert the Sherman using the StuG to shoot at it. But that is on hold until the package is recovered or resent. Besides another IR capable tank, what can I use to 'shoot' at my Sherman to check that it can be hit from all directions from at least 25' away?

Thanks.

Jim

[Rubicon99]

I'm using Beeg's picture to illustrate what I am going to ask about but my question is for anybody that can answer it.

I'm in the planning stages of adding a LegoDEI IR receiver to my Sherman. I really like the way Beeg's conversion looks, but I have a question. Does the commander's cupola not interfere with shots coming from the right hand side of the tank. I am completely new to this. The assumption I was working under was that I should put the IR receiver high enough to be in 'clean' air. Is that not as big a concern as I had imagined it to be?

I would really like to mount the IR in the top of the commanders' cupola but I haven't figure out how to get the hatch off. Is it possible to remove the hinged hatches on Heng Long tanks without damaging them?

Thanks,

Jim

I have extensive experience with the DEI receivers. The photos above clearly show it placed in a location that will allow it to be hit easily.

The LegoDEI receiver is very sensitive and they use 4 IR receiver “bulbs” vs the 1 that Tamiya and HL use. They are less susceptible to “deflection” from obstructions so can be mount much tighter to the turret (low profile). Even still you should test the location and height to ensure that the receiver can be reliably hit from all sides (at least 25ft away) before securing it.

The commander’s hatch is the most common location for an IR receiver to be placed on a Sherman. The DEI with the 360 sunshade should fit the HL commander’s hatch even with the hatch open and still attached. The problem is the “low profile” of the DEI and open hatch might or might not deflect some incoming IR beams from the right quarter depending on distance fired from.

I have used the Tamiya version of the DEI on my Tamiya Sherman (IDF M51) that has the IR receiver plug in the commander hatch and I have not had any issues even with the open hatch and MG obstruction.

See photos below.
Note: This tank uses full Tamiya electronics not HL. The Tamiya system tends to be more sensitive.

[OKC_Jim]

After a little sanding and painting the new LegoDEI IR sensor almost looks like a part of the tank.
The sunshade pictured is the 360 degree model vs the "Tamiya" quadrant style sunshade.

I'm using Beeg's picture to illustrate what I am going to ask about but my question is for anybody that can answer it.

I'm in the planning stages of adding a LegoDEI IR receiver to my Sherman. I really like the way Beeg's conversion looks, but I have a question. Does the commander's cupola not interfere with shots coming from the right hand side of the tank. I am completely new to this. The assumption I was working under was that I should put the IR receiver high enough to be in 'clean' air. Is that not as big a concern as I had imagined it to be?

I would really like to mount the IR in the top of the commanders' cupola but I haven't figure out how to get the hatch off. Is it possible to remove the hinged hatches on Heng Long tanks without damaging them?

Thanks,

Jim

[quitcherbitchen]

Thank your very much. I will call Kenny

[LegoDEI]

if you're talking about TBU SIG that's an input pin not an output pin on the MFU. Generally tanks aren't able to hit themselves because the software will block out incoming signals during transmission. Otherwise shooting at most flat surfaces would end up killing itself and not be very much fun. Having said that I personally have no experience with clark boards, you may be better off trying to summon Kenny Gaddis who is the expert on these.

[quitcherbitchen]

I get power of 5.04 volts out of the left pin when facing from the top. Signal no power. Does that sound right. I can't get the TBU to work. At least not with the Pill box or even shooting at itself with the tanks own IR emitter. Scratching what is left of my hair LOL.

[LegoDEI]

you can measure it with a meter. I expect the LED + to be off when it's not hit and not flashing, and the TBU + to be always on

[quitcherbitchen]

Thank you Lego, but how does that read? right to left. So the left pin is closest to the center of the board is 1. HBU/TBU+, second from left HBU/TBU sig, etc ?

[LegoDEI]

Hi, here are the diagrams you're probably looking for. http://www.clark-model.com/eng/prod_rx40/index.html If you scroll down it tells you what each pin on the CN2 plug is, just match it up with the labels on the receiver and you should be set. For future reference, I don't check this forum all that frequently, so if you do have a question related to my products, feel free to post the thread here, and send me the link through etsy. I will respond on this forum so that future users can have a point of reference.

CN2

Infrared Port

1. HBU/TBU + 2. HBU/TBU SIG 3. HBU/TBU - 4. TBU FLASH LED - 5. TBU FLASH LED +

[quitcherbitchen]

I just received my Kit from LegoDEI. Where are you guys putting the IR emitter on Panzer III or IV tanks? Do you remove the existing BB fire indicator LED? Seems like the Barrel sight portal to the right would be a better spot. Just have to cut the turret mantel to clear. I am using a Clark 40 board. I guess I wire the IR emitter LED straight to the board (J1) from what I can tell. The LED on the Lego DEI receiver is for hit counts? That goes into (Cn2)? Any input would be appreciated. I realize most everyone uses HL MFU, but maybe Rubicon or Vaseline can comment.

This is what I am using to interpret the wiring. This was taken from a post from Shorty 54. The Clark diagram is confusing as it is posted in a linear edit that doesn't clearly define the sockets.

"Ok, so just an update to what I ended up doing. As stated above I pluged the Gun Flash directly into the TK22 (same as a 40 which is what I have) port, bypassing the connector in the top of the turret. To get the IR function to work properly on both the Tiger and T34, I installed the new IR LED (IR010) that came with the board, to the connector that came with the board (CAB001) and plugged that into PORT J1 on the TK22(40). Here is where I get confused I then took the 2 wires that connected the original Taigen IR LED,(my Panzer never had IR just BB) and connected a red LED and ran the led to the top of where the HBU is. Now the red LED flashes when it takes a hit. I also believe this will help with programing when I get the remote. I can easily push the LED out of site if not battling. So in the end all is working and Im satisfied, "