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New "compatible" Heng Long 6.0 IR receiver test results

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  • LegoDEI
    replied
    yes they should be. edit: i've noticed that the difference isn't as pronounced when the tanks are low on juice... which makes sense.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beeg
    replied
    LegoDEI Are the two new HL receivers you just sent me the "brighter" versions?

    Leave a comment:


  • LegoDEI
    replied
    Everything- including usage, mounting plug, etc will all be the same, so you can just plug directly into any tanks you've already made the sockets for without any modification. Only difference is increased brightness. And just to reiterate, this is only for the red ones. Blue ones are still the same,

    Leave a comment:


  • Beeg
    replied
    Originally posted by LegoDEI View Post
    Update for you all: testing upgraded red LED brightness with no increase to cost or change to form factor. The new LED's are 3x the brightness of the original version (1600mcd vs 500mcd).
    LED's are difficult for cameras to handle so here's a side by side comparison to demonstrate the huge increase in light output. No filters/blurs or effects of any type were used for this picture. The left is the new one while the right is the original. As you all know the original ones are already very bright, so this upgrade should further improve visibility outdoors on the battlefield.
    ..............
    ....................
    .........................
    I'm currently making an initial beta production batch of 17, available starting tomorrow.
    If you would like to own one & would like to help test this new version, please leave a note stating your desire for the beta brighter version when ordering, since availability is limited.
    The original version will still for the time being be the default product until I receive sufficient favorable feedback for the upgraded version.
    I'm in for the brighter version. Other than being brighter is mounting and functionality going to be the same as current the version?

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubicon99
    replied
    Originally posted by LegoDEI View Post
    Update for you all: testing upgraded red LED brightness with no increase to cost or change to form factor. The new LED's are 3x the brightness of the original version (1600mcd vs 500mcd).
    LED's are difficult for cameras to handle so here's a side by side comparison to demonstrate the huge increase in light output. No filters/blurs or effects of any type were used for this picture. The left is the new one while the right is the original. As you all know the original ones are already very bright, so this upgrade should further improve visibility outdoors on the battlefield.

    Click image for larger version Name:	flash.JPG Views:	0 Size:	41.8 KB ID:	259163
    Click image for larger version Name:	flashoff.JPG Views:	0 Size:	149.4 KB ID:	259164

    I'm currently making an initial beta production batch of 17, available starting tomorrow.
    If you would like to own one & would like to help test this new version, please leave a note stating your desire for the beta brighter version when ordering, since availability is limited.
    The original version will still for the time being be the default product until I receive sufficient favorable feedback for the upgraded version.

    Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_8478.JPG Views:	0 Size:	136.7 KB ID:	259165
    Well sign me up for a few!!!! The brighter LED was needed especially for easier visual hit indication in bright light and when then tank is far way from the adversary to confirm a hit.

    Leave a comment:


  • LegoDEI
    replied
    Update for you all: testing upgraded red LED brightness with no increase to cost or change to form factor. The new LED's are 3x the brightness of the original version (1600mcd vs 500mcd).
    LED's are difficult for cameras to handle so here's a side by side comparison to demonstrate the huge increase in light output. No filters/blurs or effects of any type were used for this picture. The left is the new one while the right is the original. As you all know the original ones are already very bright, so this upgrade should further improve visibility outdoors on the battlefield.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	flash.JPG Views:	0 Size:	41.8 KB ID:	259163
    Click image for larger version  Name:	flashoff.JPG Views:	0 Size:	149.4 KB ID:	259164

    I'm currently making an initial beta production batch of 17, available starting tomorrow.
    If you would like to own one & would like to help test this new version, please leave a note stating your desire for the beta brighter version when ordering, since availability is limited.
    The original version will still for the time being be the default product until I receive sufficient favorable feedback for the upgraded version.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_8478.JPG Views:	0 Size:	136.7 KB ID:	259165

    Leave a comment:


  • Beeg
    replied
    Originally posted by William Fraden View Post
    Yes the Lego. I have 2 seperate wires a green and yellow both with single connectors. The 5 wires all single connectors- black-white- grey-purple-blue?
    I'm not sure what you're asking.

    The (3) wires plug into socket [CN16]. The other 2 wires plug into [LED 3] (tail lights). IF you want to retain the tail lights just splice the two wires into the existing taillight wires. The colors of the wires are just for reference. Observe correct polarity for all connections.

    Does this image help?


    Click image for larger version  Name:	il_fullxfull.2276772713_tsd1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	122.9 KB ID:	257973

    Leave a comment:


  • William Fraden
    replied
    Yes the Lego. I have 2 seperate wires a green and yellow both with single connectors. The 5 wires all single connectors- black-white- grey-purple-blue?

    Leave a comment:


  • Beeg
    replied
    Originally posted by LegoDEI View Post
    HengLong LED outputs are all at 3.3V, which is what the receiver is designed around. You can push it to 4V or so and still get decent life out of them. 6V will definitely fry them lol. The tamiya/ibu/clark version is good up to 6.5V, but you need to cross wires on the ir receiver pins.
    Good to know. Will make note of it. Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • LegoDEI
    replied
    HengLong LED outputs are all at 3.3V, which is what the receiver is designed around. You can push it to 4V or so and still get decent life out of them. 6V will definitely fry them lol. The tamiya/ibu/clark version is good up to 6.5V, but you need to cross wires on the ir receiver pins.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubicon99
    replied
    Originally posted by Beeg View Post
    I figured you could turn them off since you can turn the smoker on and off. But, didn't think about the flashing. I assumed the flash function was built into the receiver unit and didn't use the MFCB flashing function...
    Do the Left/Right Turn signals flash?
    They do flash but can’t be turn off, well I at least I have not found a way to turn them off, so the IR LEDs stay on all the time.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beeg
    replied
    I figured you could turn them off since you can turn the smoker on and off. But, didn't think about the flashing. I assumed the flash function was built into the receiver unit and didn't use the MFCB flashing function...
    Do the Left/Right Turn signals flash?

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubicon99
    replied
    Originally posted by Beeg View Post
    LegoDEI What is the maximum voltage you can use for the LED [2pin] on your HL version? Would it be safe to use the 6v "Smoke Generator" [CN12] socket?
    NO you will fry the IR receiver!!!! Also the LEDs can not be turned off and will not flash with the other lights when hit.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beeg
    replied
    LegoDEI What is the maximum voltage you can use for the LED [2pin] on your HL version? Would it be safe to use the 6v "Smoke Generator" [CN12] socket?

    Leave a comment:


  • Prowler901
    replied
    Thanks, I suspected that Option 2 would be possible. But, I wasn't sure. Thanks for the quick answer.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubicon99
    replied
    Originally posted by Prowler901 View Post
    Which LED plug location are folks plugging into on the MFCU? On my Bulldog both 3 and 4 are being used by the headlights and tail lights.
    Option 1. Plug into the taillight slot and forgo taillights.

    Option 2. Splice IR lead wires into the taillight lead wires and run concurrently with the taillights. Super easy to do. I have this set up on one of my tanks. Personally I think it is your best option. You will still need to turn off the taillights to turn off the IR hit indication LEDs.

    Option 3. You can use slots 6,7 or 8. These are for the brake lights and L/R turn signals. Unfortunately I have not found a way to turn these on and off so the IR LEDs will stay lighted which is not advantageous for battling as folks will mistake this as your tank is dead or just received a hit.

    Leave a comment:


  • Prowler901
    replied
    Which LED plug location are folks plugging into on the MFCU? On my Bulldog both 3 and 4 are being used by the headlights and tail lights.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beeg
    replied
    Originally posted by William Fraden View Post
    I recieved my Reciever with 6 individual single plugs for my Heng Long 6.0 T34 tank. What happened to the 5 pin connector? If I got the wrong connectors thenhow do I get the correct one?
    Are you talking about the LegoDEI recievers like this one?
    https://www.etsy.com/listing/7769074..._home_active_4

    Leave a comment:


  • William Fraden
    replied
    I recieved my Reciever with 6 individual single plugs for my Heng Long 6.0 T34 tank. What happened to the 5 pin connector? If I got the wrong connectors thenhow do I get the correct one?

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubicon99
    replied
    Bump

    Leave a comment:

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