It's about 15 years old, last time I used it was about 5 years ago. Got four nozzles, all seem to jam. Probably need to thin the paint to a different viscosity. I've become so used to the Iwata I'm staying with it.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Sturmgeschutz III - don't do this at home, kids!
Collapse
X
-
As for airbrushing: My experience is that the brand of paint really matters. When I first got my airbrush years and years ago I went with Vallejo Model Air because I was already using their regular brushpaints. Big mistake, couldn't spray without the airbrush clogging up every 5 minutes. Tried different types of thinners but never got it right. And a hell to clean the stuff from the airbrush. After that I switched to Mr Hobby Aqueous, thinning it with Mr Hobby thinner. It's a dream spraying with this.
Comment
-
I cannot see the two pics. I understand about the paint. I have been airbrushing almost all of my planes and I use water based latex house paint. I usually thin it with distilled water. I tried out the painting on a box ans the spray nozzles are just too big for what I want. I will try new tips first then the new airbrush if the tips do not work.
Bob
- Likes 1
Comment
-
Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post
I love the rust weathering. How did you do that? I was never very good at weathering. But willing to give it another try.
Comment
-
Hey Karl, thanks. My process is actually very easy. It won’t win any Scalemasters contest, but it’s great for these tanks. I use AK’s Streaking Grime and their Enamel Thinner, as a wash. Thin it and it runs along creases, corners and panel lines. Thicker around bolts. Real thin wash can run down surfaces. I used some after I took these pics to dim down the white numbering. If you use too much pigment, just brush it away with thinner.
Just make sure you seal your paint first, with clear flat, so the thinner doesn’t affect the paint. It’s the most fun step for me.
As far as the tracks, I just spray them with Testors Flat Earth or Dark Tan, then drive the tank on some hard surface to wear off the high surfaces. You could also use the streaking grime to deepen the creases.
I buy the AK paints at Hobbylinc.
BobTwenty six tanks, and not done yet!
Comment
-
Originally posted by SoCalBobS View PostHey Karl, thanks. My process is actually very easy. It won’t win any Scalemasters contest, but it’s great for these tanks. I use AK’s Streaking Grime and their Enamel Thinner, as a wash. Thin it and it runs along creases, corners and panel lines. Thicker around bolts. Real thin wash can run down surfaces. I used some after I took these pics to dim down the white numbering. If you use too much pigment, just brush it away with thinner.
Just make sure you seal your paint first, with clear flat, so the thinner doesn’t affect the paint. It’s the most fun step for me.
As far as the tracks, I just spray them with Testors Flat Earth or Dark Tan, then drive the tank on some hard surface to wear off the high surfaces. You could also use the streaking grime to deepen the creases.
I buy the AK paints at Hobbylinc.
Bob
Comment
-
Originally posted by UltraVargen View PostAs for airbrushing: My experience is that the brand of paint really matters. When I first got my airbrush years and years ago I went with Vallejo Model Air because I was already using their regular brushpaints. Big mistake, couldn't spray without the airbrush clogging up every 5 minutes. Tried different types of thinners but never got it right. And a hell to clean the stuff from the airbrush. After that I switched to Mr Hobby Aqueous, thinning it with Mr Hobby thinner. It's a dream spraying with this.
- Likes 3
Comment
-
Originally posted by Vaseline View Postthe thing about Vallejo is its great paint on 1 very big condition, its formulated in such a way that if you use anything but their proprietary reducer/thinner the paint breaks and turns into cottage cheese in your airbrush gumming up the whole works.
I still have a box full of VMA bottles (if they're not dried out after 10+ years). Maybe I'll try them again sometime.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Vaseline View Postthe thing about Vallejo is its great paint on 1 very big condition, its formulated in such a way that if you use anything but their proprietary reducer/thinner the paint breaks and turns into cottage cheese in your airbrush gumming up the whole works.Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
Comment
-
Originally posted by HDMM View PostAnother STUG III owner here.....I've converted mine to a Clark TK40 with a Flash unit. Have not added IR yet. I've done detailing / painting but have not done any weathering on it yet.
Or, you could order three or four types of pigments, mix your own, then paint each link. Shouldn't take more than a few days! (Facetious I know, but I worked in a hobby shop for a while and overheard just this type of conversation.)
I do have some AK metal pigment paste that I use on edges, handles, etc., which could touch up tracks. Rub some on your fingers, rub your finger on the surfaces you want. Just beware, a little goes a long way!
Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
- Likes 1
Comment
-
I typically use a combination of a a regular ol' #2 pencil and a prisma-color silver pencil as you describe using that metal paste. the burnished graphite over black looks really good as a worn gun-metal look as well. I ordered a 1lb tub of graphite powder for weathering, that was a mistake, it just wont polish to that metallic sheen like a pencil does.
- Likes 2
Comment
Comment