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RC Tanks - Pz III Ausf M Build - About three years ago, I started tweaking my PzIII. I had some ideas of what I wanted to do, but nothing really concrete. The primary debate was between an Ausf L and an Ausf M. The L would require building a new exhaust that could function (although I was pretty sure that I didn’tDon't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!
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Finished printing the recoil unit for my Panzer. I only had yellow PLA left. I was too lazy to use Petg. PLA seems like it should do ok. If the tank gets cooked in the car it could warp though. I know it is hard to imagine how this will work, but there is a youtube with one and it is very trick. Made just for the Panzer III.1 PhotoDon't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!
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Yep thats the $1.99 file from RC Tanks Australia. I posted the free file they offer on the King Tiger thread. I Used it for an old Profiline Jagdpanzer IV conversion kit I have. On their forum phyrephish has a quick and dirty way of turning an airsoft unit into a recoil mech too. ill post the link http://rctanksaustralia.com/forum1/viewtopic.php?t=14
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HL uses a couple of different mechanisms to elevate the cannon and both of them need the air soft housing to function.
When all or part of the air soft unit is removed for servo barrel recoil it's probably just easier to use a servo for elevation also.
The disadvantage of servo elevation is the smoothness and speed of the barrel movement depends on how you move the TX stick.
I don't think it would be hard to adapt a 3-d printed recoil unit to work with the original elevation mechanism with a little work and would be more scale in it's movement.
Steve
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Originally posted by SoCalBobS View PostI'm posting this because I was pleasantly surprised to see it had adjustable tensioners!
Thanks,
Jim
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Originally posted by OKC_Jim View Post
SoCalBobS, what tensioners came on it? My StuG seems to be shedding tracks on a regular enough basis that it made me think about adding tensioners. I've seen the Mato ones. Wasn't sure if that was what Heng Long was using or something different?
Thanks,
Jim
Neither of these tanks shed tracks. If yours are coming off in the back off the idler, I'd look at alignment. Maybe a washer fell off or wasn't provided in the first place? All my tanks came with a washer inline with the idlers. Many's the time I've had to chase them around the workplace floor!
BobTwenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post
Hey. My 5.3 StuG did not have tensioners, obviously an older mold. The Panzer III is a 6.0 version. The tensioners look similar to the fake ones on the StuG, but they are in fact functional, adjustable by a phillips head bolt. By it's design, I'd say it was a tank-specific purpose built improvement.
Neither of these tanks shed tracks. If yours are coming off in the back off the idler, I'd look at alignment. Maybe a washer fell off or wasn't provided in the first place? All my tanks came with a washer inline with the idlers. Many's the time I've had to chase them around the workplace floor!
Bob
Do the new Heng Long tensioners look like something that could be retrofitted to an older hull or are they part of the hull?
I double checked the washers, even tried an extra one on each side. Still throwing tracks.
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Originally posted by SoCalBobS View PostThey're not like the add-ons I've seen pictures of, so I'm guessing they're built in. It's a 'worm gear" setup, as opposed to an "eccentric" one. They can be adjusted with the tracks on.
These are the ones I am looking at.
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OKC_Jim I messed about with replacing the stock adjusters with Mato ones. Check my Panzer III topic a bit below this one.
In short:
The Mato adjusters are made for the older (pre-6.0?) hulls. The ones that have no adjuster per default.
The Mato can be installed on the 6.0 hull, like I did, but you can't use the metal swing arm (it's too short for that hull due to a slightly different position where it connects to the hull).
The stock plastic Heng Long adjuster on the 6.0 hull is cast with the rear plate of the tank and has to be saw off. It cannot be re-used after removal.
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