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M3 Lee Tank

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  • #21
    What MFU?

    Still in the mental planning stage for this project, wondering what to do. I'm curious as to which MFU to use, which will dictate what animations I can incorporate. I'm thinking of installing the gun IR in the hull barrel, and the MG bulb in the turret. No Airsoft, I've plenty of those tanks. The only must have animation is the turret rotation. Main gun elevation is desirable but not mandatory for me. My guess is both would need to be servo actuated.

    Given these needs, would the HL 6.1 board suffice, or is a Clark necessary? The former would allow use of an HL transmitter. The latter would require it's own transmitter. For my planes, I am committed to Spektrum equipment. Can Spektrum control Clark?

    Opinions?
    Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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    • #22
      Most of what Ive seen for running Clarks are the FlySky TX

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      • #23
        I only have the Heng Long 6.0 in my tanks.
        Do either the 6.1 or the 7.0 version support servos?
        Steve

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        • #24
          Originally posted by Sureshot View Post
          I only have the Heng Long 6.0 in my tanks.
          Do either the 6.1 or the 7.0 version support servos?
          Steve
          the 6.1S for sure has the signal wire hookups and supports servos, dont recall off the top of my head if the 6.1 does or not I THINK it may support servos and the 6.1S does as well but also handles higher peak voltage. The standard 6.0 does not support servos.

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          • #25
            Got a specific follow-up question for 6.1S owners: I want to run two servo operated animations on my eventual M3 Lee, one for turret rotation and one for hull gun elevation. I also want to do something similar for a future Pz IV Mobelwagen, servo operated gun traverse and elevation. Can the 6.1S operate two servos? I couldn't find a clear 6.1S schematic or description on the web.
            Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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            • #26
              The descriptions I have read say it has servo outputs for gun elevation and recoil. So I'm not sure if it can do what you want given the lack of versatility of the Heng Long system.
              You might be better off with a Clark based system.
              I have a 6.1s controller coming in today's mail so I might know more tomorrow.
              I got my M3 kit from DAK last week. Very nice but is going to be quite a project.
              Steve

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              • #27
                Originally posted by Sureshot View Post
                The descriptions I have read say it has servo outputs for gun elevation and recoil. So I'm not sure if it can do what you want given the lack of versatility of the Heng Long system.
                You might be better off with a Clark based system.
                I have a 6.1s controller coming in today's mail so I might know more tomorrow.
                I got my M3 kit from DAK last week. Very nice but is going to be quite a project.
                Steve
                Thanks, let me know if you can. I'm trying to keep casts down, hence my reluctance regarding the Clark board. So, will you be trying to make a full function M3, a la some I've seen with elevation and traverse on the hull gun, turret gun and commander's cupola? Maybe firing recoil and smoke? Not me, that's for sure! 😁
                Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                • #28
                  Hi Bob,
                  I'm not sure what features I want to put in my M3.
                  Elevation of both guns and rotation of the turret for sure. Maybe traverse of the big gun as well.
                  I'd like to put IR in the turret gun or mantle to make it more battle capable.
                  Recoil not so sure. Smoke would be easy to do.
                  The DAK kit doesn't have the small turret on top just a hatch.
                  Steve

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                  • #29
                    I got the 6.1s board today. Looks very nice.
                    I'll plug in some servos,an air soft unit plus a speaker tomorrow to see what it will do.
                    Steve

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                    • #30
                      Posted elsewhere, but relevant here too. Back of 6.1S.

                      Click image for larger version

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                      Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                      • #31
                        I hooked up the 6.1s MFU today to see what the servo functions are and they are pretty much as advertised.
                        The gun elevation servo is proportional over a 90 degree range. It can creep very slowly or move quickly depending on how fast and far you move the stick. It does not return to center when the stick does. Works very smoothly.
                        The gun recoil servo moves 90 degrees when the cannon button is activated and returns back to its original position almost instantly. If you put a jumper in place of the "trigger" connector the recoil and cannon sound are simultaneous. Much improved over the current barrel recoil system.
                        As you can see from the picture that Bob posted the 6.1s has a few other features also that are not on the 6.0.
                        One thing that caught my eye was the use of different style connectors for the IR connections. Not sure why that is unless maybe for some future change. That's all I know for now,
                        Steve

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                        • #32
                          Greetings - first post - from Ireland....

                          I have two 6.1s MFUs installed in HL/Taigen hybrid tanks which came with 6.0 MFUs, and which I wanted to convert to 'proper' recoil annd barrel smoke, using the HL kits. I'm very happy with them. They provide two servo outputs - one for barrel lifting (although the original output is still available), and one for recoil. In addition, they have a metal case which helps with cooling. I have four tanks, all with full metal running gear, and I found that they run very hot. I have two 5v cooling fans in each, running happily off CN2, one directed at the MFU, and one at the motors, which have heatsinks. As mentioned earlier, the IR receiver is now a servo-type 3-wire plug which required making up an adaptor, and to sync the smoke with the recoil, a jumper is needed across CN6. The battery connector is now a Deans T-type, which is an improvement. I dislike Tamiya connectors, and normally use XT-60s, so I simply use another adaptor. Additionally, the 160amp capacity reduces the risk of overload. I'm also planning to use a 6.1S for the Hooben T-50 which is my current lock-down engineering challenge - it's pricey, but still cheaper than the alternatives, and easy to connect. Hope it works...!

                          While lurking, I've noted the supply difficulties experienced across the 'pond'. There are three good dealers in Germany that I use, plus one in the UK for components. Not sure if giving recommendations is OK here, but if anyone's interested they can have them.

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                          • #33
                            Timbo68 A bit off-topic, but being in the Netherland I'd be interested in those German dealers. And I imagine others will be as well. As a matter of fact, yesterday I was scouring online for a decent deal on either a StuG III or Panzer III, and I came across rc-panzer-shop.de where the latter was in stock in 6.0 version. They replied very quickly to a question I had and it's on it's way to me now.

                            Welcome to HSquawk by the way!

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                            • #34
                              That's one of the German dealers - the other two are heng-long-panzer.de and rctank.de. In the UK I've used forgebeartanks.com, who supplied my HL barrel recoil and smoker kits. There are, however, clearly stock issues everywhere, and of course, delivery costs will vary widely. They are quite reasonable to IRL, so I guess that they should be OK to NL also. Some couriers had put on a size limitation for a while which excluded complete tanks in boxes to some countries. It all seemed a bit random, but has now been lifted...the world has become a very unpredictable place!

                              I meant to add to my previous post that I'll be interested to find out what extra features the mooted HL7.0 MFU has to offer. So far, I've found everything I need with the 6.1S. I like the different sounds that the more expensive MFU systems offer, but I can live with the four I have.

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                              • #35
                                Familiar names, I actually bought some parts from Forgebear, which went smoothly. Yes it is a hunt to find that one shop that has in stock what you're looking for. Let's hope 2021 will be a year where many markets stabilize again.

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                                • #36
                                  Progress update:

                                  Just a couple of observations that may assist others attempting similar projects. I received a "static Heng Long tank' from Toucan, to be the basis for my modification. The tank is an old 27mhz version, with zinc gears and a 27mhz MFU. My first step was to remove the 27mhz MFU and install a 6.0S MFU. I learned two things.

                                  First the on/off switch is a different configuration. On the 27mhz, it's in series between the battery and the MFU, hence off means no power to anything. However on the 6.0S, the power goes directly from the battery to the MFU. The 6.0S on/off switch routes to the CN1 socket on the MFU. It only took me an hour to figure this out. My final clue was to read the manual! This is interesting, because it means the MFU has power into the board before CN1. I inserted the on/off switch into the CN1 circuit. Unplug your batteries when you're not using them!

                                  Second, the "flashing machine gun" light has no IR properties. This is different than the bulbs in the 6.0 series tanks which do have it, and can activate IR receivers. I tested this with one of LegoDEI's "targets", which lights up when IR hits it. Nothing from this tank.

                                  Just some minor points, which may help those going down this same road.
                                  Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                                  • #37
                                    "This is interesting, because it means the MFU has power into the board before CN1. I inserted the on/off switch into the CN1 circuit. Unplug your batteries when you're not using them!"

                                    This likely explains the "haunted" tank problem someone was having in another thread!

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                                    • #38
                                      I received my M3 Lee conversion kit yesterday from Kenny of DAKRC. So begins the odyssey. This is an as time allows, low budget project, trying to use as much original stuff as possible. It's also my first attempt at a resin conversion modification. I'm documenting this here for anyone who is contemplating the project, and for general hints and tips. Everyone is welcome to chime in!

                                      First thing is that the manufacturer Vandra states a low profile gearbox is necessary, for clearance of the M3 style front transmission cover and the upper hull. I wanted to try to retain the original, for cost and a worry that another gearbox might cause alignment or support problems.

                                      To fit the cover, portions of the gearbox frame and front hull have to be altered, in a fit and file process.
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                                      You can see the cuts that have to be made - on both left and right sides. Blue tape is to reduce the amount of metal shavings getting into the motor.
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                                      Here you can see the front cover is on. A portion of the gearbox frame that sits higher than the fender had to be trimmed too.
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                                      Now comes the bad part. The right pinion and first gear sit too high also. At some point I will have to fashion a plate and a small cover on the gap. Blasphemy for scale fiends, but fortunately armor can be kit-bashed to simulate field damage and repairs! Painting and weathering can cover a multitude of sins.
                                      Click image for larger version

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                                      Last thought; resin molded parts aren't as precise as say, injection molding, so there is a lot of drilling, fitting, filing and finally filling with putty. Definitely a learning curve. It'll be cool when it's done though!
                                      Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                                      • #39
                                        You made the same discovery I did. After doing a lot of work trying to get the standard Sherman gearbox to work. Close but no cigar!. I gave up and ordered the right gearbox. Got it last week but other projects are in the way now, so hope to get back at it soon.
                                        I am very happy with the castings.
                                        Have you decided on electronics? I think a Clark system will be the way to go for me.
                                        Biggest problem from a scale perspective will be relocating the return rollers and getting rid of the chevron pads on the tracks.
                                        Have to figure how to mount the upper hull also. Lots of planning to do with turret turning,elevating guns, recoil and such.
                                        Best of luck,
                                        Steve

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                                        • #40
                                          Im experiencing much the same with the Vandra Dicker Max kit, the fitment was not what I was anticipating. the castings are incredibly warped, Ive had to reposition and drill every screw hole in the kit. and some of the gapes in the superstructure plates ill have to fill with epoxy clay and profile to shape. Its a very unique specimen, but I feel a bit let down and disappointed all the same.

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