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Henglong vs Taigen
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Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
Either one. Both are of the newest generation.
Yet I still wonder why Toucan advertises two versions of each. The square black one is listed as a 6.0S and there's a seperage listing for a 6.0/6.1/6.1S. On the outside they look the same. And the same goes for the round aluminium one. It's just confusing.
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Henglong used to only go one way as well, the new systems got beyond that. I’m sure taigen will catch up on that control. When you retrofit an ibu or Clark, the barrel does go up and down with the stick.
the henglong trannys are geared at a ratio of 33:1 and the taigen trannys are geared at a ratio of 39:1. Given the same motor, the henglong will be faster as it has a higher gear ratio.
Bone stock, the taigen typically run about 22 scale mph. The A3 Ford V8 Sherman ran at a top road speed of about 24 mph.
i install Tamiya motors in nearly all my taigen trannys because they have more torque and more rpm than the 380s that taigen supplies. My rebuilt tanks top out about 24-25 mph on the clocked course.
I much prefer everything taigen Sherman over henglong Sherman being I have so many and have beat up so many. I’ve had other HL Sherman’s than my last current single one. The only thing I don’t like is metal turrets. I can’t mod them very well and they place weight too high up but henglong and taigen make different turrets so no choice there.RC tank parts and accessories I make
www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html
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Thank you for that input Rich. Experienced advice is taken to heart and MOST appreciated. I don't, nor do I plan on running my tanks hard. I'm into this hobby more for the modeling aspect of it, and the more realism I can get, the better. I know many strive for top speed but for me anyway, I prefer them slow with lots of torque for climbing over obstacles and such. I say realism, and here I am trying to make a tank blow smoke like the engines fixing to blow. My Sherman is a Taigen, M1A2 Abrams & Walker Bulldog are Henglong. Im not really into the Axis Power stuff, but American obviously, and wanted Tanks from the 3 major conflicts that interest me, WWII , Korea/Vietnam & the Gulf War. I'm old enough to remember Saigon falling at the end of Vietnam, and of course remember the Gulf War all too well. Enough of that.
In your expert opinion, what motors should I be running to get the best low speed/torque in the 3 models I just described? You mention Tamiya, but top end speed is no concern. What Im after, is the ability to creep along smoothly, without any sudden accelerations. I was reading the manual on the Taigen and thought I came across something to the effect that this tank has a High/Low setting that's done from the remote? If so, then the Taigen may be set to "high" mode or something. Obviously Im clueless.
I came across a Youtube video of a Chap who (no clue where he's from) has the most BAD ASS M1A2 I have ever seen, This thing looks like a SEPv3 package complete with TUSK armor...its amazing. I would give my testicles for these accessories alone:
Because I have more money than sense, I bought 2 "Red" 390 motors from Henglong and was about to put them into the Abrams to see what all the fuss is about. Now, I'm not sure.
Anyway, once again I really appreciate any and all input you may have. Thank you sir.
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Im not real savvy on the anything to do with an M1 , but Ive specifically seen TUSK armor as an .STL 3D print file. Unfortunately I dont remember where I saw it, if its a bare stl you print yourself or if you could have it done for you via service. Just thought you should know to look for it though.
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Originally posted by Zippersnapper View PostThank you for that input Rich. Experienced advice is taken to heart and MOST appreciated. I don't, nor do I plan on running my tanks hard. I'm into this hobby more for the modeling aspect of it, and the more realism I can get, the better. I know many strive for top speed but for me anyway, I prefer them slow with lots of torque for climbing over obstacles and such. I say realism, and here I am trying to make a tank blow smoke like the engines fixing to blow. My Sherman is a Taigen, M1A2 Abrams & Walker Bulldog are Henglong. Im not really into the Axis Power stuff, but American obviously, and wanted Tanks from the 3 major conflicts that interest me, WWII , Korea/Vietnam & the Gulf War. I'm old enough to remember Saigon falling at the end of Vietnam, and of course remember the Gulf War all too well. Enough of that.
In your expert opinion, what motors should I be running to get the best low speed/torque in the 3 models I just described? You mention Tamiya, but top end speed is no concern. What Im after, is the ability to creep along smoothly, without any sudden accelerations. I was reading the manual on the Taigen and thought I came across something to the effect that this tank has a High/Low setting that's done from the remote? If so, then the Taigen may be set to "high" mode or something. Obviously Im clueless.
I came across a Youtube video of a Chap who (no clue where he's from) has the most BAD ASS M1A2 I have ever seen, This thing looks like a SEPv3 package complete with TUSK armor...its amazing. I would give my testicles for these accessories alone:
Because I have more money than sense, I bought 2 "Red" 390 motors from Henglong and was about to put them into the Abrams to see what all the fuss is about. Now, I'm not sure.
Anyway, once again I really appreciate any and all input you may have. Thank you sir.
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@Zipper, this is sold out, but check his site https://www.rctanklegion.com/collect...-3d-printed--1
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Originally posted by sclui56 View Post@Zipper, this is sold out, but check his site https://www.rctanklegion.com/collect...-3d-printed--1
TUSK 2 Armor kit and the CROWS gun station are on my most wanted list now...I emailed the owner, hopefully I can get on a waiting list
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Originally posted by Zippersnapper View Post
Ahhhhh crap......THANK YOU !!! Now the waiting game begins.......EXCELLENT !
TUSK 2 Armor kit and the CROWS gun station are on my most wanted list now...I emailed the owner, hopefully I can get on a waiting list
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Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
Try DKLMRC.com they are the ones that make the CROWS and TUSK accessories. I have bough many items from them. Also not as expensive to ship as from Rctanklegion.
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[QUOTE=Vaseline;n307657]Im not real savvy on the anything to do with an M1 , but Ive specifically seen TUSK armor as an .STL 3D print file. Unfortunately I dont remember where I saw it, if its a bare stl you print yourself or if you could have it done for you via service. Just thought you should know to look for it though.[/QUOT
I appreciate that ! If I start tallying the money I'm spending on parts, my fear is I will have spent as much as a decent resin printer. So....... I'm not going to think about it.
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Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
Definitely put the red 390 motors in the Abrams. At 8.4v (7.4v Lipo) it is twice as fast as stock, but with even better low speed handling characteristics and torque for negotiation rough terrain.
Ok, no problem, I then turned the tank over and there is NO WAY to access these 2 screws. The bottom of the hull is blank...no holes at all in this location. 8 screws take the upper hull off, and the one remaining screw that's accessed from underneath is to remove the smoke unit...that's it. No floor plate, nothing. How in the hell is the gearbox mounted at the factory? I'm confused as normal.
I don't see how the drive shaft is removed from the gearbox either ? I gave it a gentle tug, and it ain't moving. Forgive me for being ignorant. I can usually figure things out on my own, but this has me perplexed and I must tame my Neanderthal instincts on this one, so I don't screw something up beyond my abilities to fix. (FUBAR)
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Originally posted by UltraVargen View PostZipper, I have no idea but: Maybe they slide to the side or something?
It looks as though the gearboxes were screwed down, then the heads of the screws were sheared off. I find that hard to swallow as well. This is the damndest thing I have ever seen-doesn't make any sense. The screws are too tiny to use an easy out...
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All three screws that hold the gearboxes go in from above. Keep looking and you will see them.You will most likely have to remove those covers over the gears to see them. The ones from below hold the gearbox halves together and do not need to come out to remove the gearbox from the tank.
Steve
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Originally posted by Zippersnapper View Post
Rubicon, went to put motors in, and this is the strangest thing.... Took the drive sprocket off, removed the on/off switch. got it out of the way. The gearbox is in 2 pieces, Right & Left. Starting with the left (upper motor) first, there are 3 phillips screws holding the gearbox/motor in place. One in the center (which is hidden by the motor in this view) and I removed that, easy enough. However, these two screws are screwed from underneath...
Ok, no problem, I then turned the tank over and there is NO WAY to access these 2 screws. The bottom of the hull is blank...no holes at all in this location. 8 screws take the upper hull off, and the one remaining screw that's accessed from underneath is to remove the smoke unit...that's it. No floor plate, nothing. How in the hell is the gearbox mounted at the factory? I'm confused as normal.
I don't see how the drive shaft is removed from the gearbox either ? I gave it a gentle tug, and it ain't moving. Forgive me for being ignorant. I can usually figure things out on my own, but this has me perplexed and I must tame my Neanderthal instincts on this one, so I don't screw something up beyond my abilities to fix. (FUBAR)
Also you will have to remove your smoke unit. You have one of the tanks where the smoke units is attached to the lower hull not the upper.
The drive axles can’t be removed from the gearbox until the gearbox is removed and then you have to disassemble the gearbox. This does begs the question as to why you want to remove the axles if they are working? To do so is not hard just but I recommend taking a few photos of it to remind you as to where everything goes back.
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Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
Remove the plastic shield and you will see the other two screws that you have to remove.
Also you will have to remove your smoke unit. You have one of the tanks where the smoke units is attached to the lower hull not the upper.
The drive axles can’t be removed from the gearbox until the gearbox is removed and then you have to disassemble the gearbox. This does begs the question as to why you want to remove the axles if they are working? To do so is not hard just but I recommend taking a few photos of it to remind you as to where everything goes back.
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