Originally posted by Evan D
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Advice to buy a new tank - good options, reliable and that dont break the bank
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Axel support bearings fit inside the the drive sprockets on the drive output shafts.
NEW! Fresh out of the shop- we designed and fabricated the axle support bearing for Challenger 2. As shown in the video, it's a slot in fit design, no screw holes to drill for this type.precision fit machined aluminium, with ball bearing for 8.0
If you watch the video it explains where to put the bearings.
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Regarding LiPo vs LiIon batteries, I use 2S LiIons. There are good quality packs available. I've bought mine from Motion RC, their Admiral brand. A full size pack is 7200mah, half size are 3500mah. The only time I've run a pack down at battle events is when I forgot and left a stock 1800mah battery in! I use those when I'm working on the tanks at my bench.
Regarding 2S vs 3S, the tanks will go faster, but after all they aren't meant to be racers, unless you want to run them in large open spaces and need to go from point to point to cut off an attack. Me, I figure if they want to engage they can come to me.
If you want to run Lipo's you can always buy a Low Voltage Alarm. Plugs into the balance taps and screams when you are getting too low. They cost maybe $5 or so.
Lastly, I like the feel of metal tracks but to be honest, plastic sometimes run better. I replaced my metal leopard and Challenger tracks with plastic, and they run more reliably.
Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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A lot of posts here reflect modifications that are fun to do, it's an integral part of the hobby. They aren't really critical for your choice of your first tank. Without a doubt there will be another, and another, and......
One to stay away from is the dreaded "Pantiger"! A long time ago HL took a Tiger chassis and put a batsardized upper hull meant to represent a Panther. Make sure it isn't your choice, since they typically are sold for less than any other. Your fellow tankers will giggle at it, I guarantee it.Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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Originally posted by Meter Rat View PostAxel support bearings fit inside the the drive sprockets on the drive output shafts.
NEW! Fresh out of the shop- we designed and fabricated the axle support bearing for Challenger 2. As shown in the video, it's a slot in fit design, no screw holes to drill for this type.precision fit machined aluminium, with ball bearing for 8.0
If you watch the video it explains where to put the bearings.
Thank you, but i cant see any video there.
I just see the link pointing to the bearings itself.
No video whatsoever.
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Originally posted by SoCalBobS View PostRegarding LiPo vs LiIon batteries, I use 2S LiIons. There are good quality packs available. I've bought mine from Motion RC, their Admiral brand. A full size pack is 7200mah, half size are 3500mah. The only time I've run a pack down at battle events is when I forgot and left a stock 1800mah battery in! I use those when I'm working on the tanks at my bench.
Regarding 2S vs 3S, the tanks will go faster, but after all they aren't meant to be racers, unless you want to run them in large open spaces and need to go from point to point to cut off an attack. Me, I figure if they want to engage they can come to me.
If you want to run Lipo's you can always buy a Low Voltage Alarm. Plugs into the balance taps and screams when you are getting too low. They cost maybe $5 or so.
Lastly, I like the feel of metal tracks but to be honest, plastic sometimes run better. I replaced my metal leopard and Challenger tracks with plastic, and they run more reliably.
Regarding to the 2s and 3s good idea i will buy one of those alarms and i hope to hear it with the sound of the tank on.
when i will use 3s i will lower the power, i just have one small 2s and 2 3s 2500mah lipo and i think it will be enough.
Its not for running just to last longer, i can also use a 2s li-ion i have .
Thank you all for the help, MUCH APPRECIATED TO ALL.
i am awaiting patiently to arrive now. probably at the end of the month.
lets see.
as soon as it arrive i will show it.
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Originally posted by Meter Rat View Post
Ah, sorry. I was referring to the video yourself posted , regarding track tensioning.
Regarding to the video of the track tension i just did a quick research on youtube for the information but i dont know if its true or not i will confirm it only when i receive mine.
Unfortunately only by the end of the month :(.
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Hi Guys already bough the adapter from xt60 to deans so i can use my deans lipos.
Also bought the plier to properly cut the plastic parts on the kit to be assembled.
But what i would like to know and see (one picture is better than one thousand words) is how you balance the weight of the Heng Long M41 Walker Buldog.
I saw some builds that they put an aluminum frame on the sides of the plastic hull and with traverse plastic or wooden or aluminum parts to have better weight distribution and also to improve the rigidity from the tank and its behaviour in handling tough terrains like climbs on soft dirt.
Do you have any ideas on how to do it? Materials used? and how to glue everything?
Also anyone knows the weight of the gearbox with the motors?
I think this will be more or less the weight we need to put up front to be balanced.
What type of glue to you use?
Epoxy?
Thanks in advance.
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Originally posted by Evan D View PostI didn't do anything to "balance" the tank. I have the all metal version and she runs fine. My best tank.
But i still need to see with what it comes in fact.
U did not even reinforced the plastic hull bellow?
i saw lots of people putting some pieces of aluminun on the sides and glue them to the plastic hull to prevent the hull to twist and break, and also i have seen some of the versions in uphills the hull goes completly up because of the added weight on the back (metal gears, transmission and motor).
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There are different versions and different names. Motion does have a version called professional but it is not all metal, not having metal road wheels. Also doesn't have the 360 turret.
US Stock Henglong 1/16 7.0 Walker Bulldog RC RTR Tank 3839 Metal Wheels Tracks | eBay
No reinforcement at all. It's a smaller tank and doesn't need it. The metal treads and road wheels help alot.
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Originally posted by Evan D View PostThere are different versions and different names. Motion does have a version called professional but it is not all metal, not having metal road wheels. Also doesn't have the 360 turret.
US Stock Henglong 1/16 7.0 Walker Bulldog RC RTR Tank 3839 Metal Wheels Tracks | eBay
No reinforcement at all. It's a smaller tank and doesn't need it. The metal treads and road wheels help alot.
Do you have any videos of it running and climbing into obstacles or uphills?
i saw some videos on youtube of this tank the metal version and it seems the front raises too much due to lack of weight but as i said i migh be wrong or it may be a metal version but not with all metal components.
look the video bellow at minute 1.58s
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Originally posted by Evan D View PostMost videos I have of my tanks are FPV. The video where you say that looks fine to me. If you draw a line through the center of the tank most is behind the piece of wood. But if it bothers you add weight but more weight doesn't mean more traction.
I have an Axial Wraith Crawler (money pit) and i understand that.
But i would like to balance it a litle bit better and maybe doesnt tip so easily like that.
Another question is how to improve traction?
Any cheap ideas or you are going to say change the tracks? More $$$, lol.
The idea is improve but not break the bank.
I am also planning to do some small acessories to put on it all dyi.
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Originally posted by cravo View Post
I understand, and i know more will weight will add MORE STRESS to gearbox, driveline, less run time and quicker wear of the parts.
I have an Axial Wraith Crawler (money pit) and i understand that.
But i would like to balance it a litle bit better and maybe doesnt tip so easily like that.
Another question is how to improve traction?
Any cheap ideas or you are going to say change the tracks? More $$$, lol.
The idea is improve but not break the bank.
I am also planning to do some small acessories to put on it all dyi.
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Originally posted by keilau View Post
With your crawler experience, you are well aware of the wear issue. Replacing the HL metal parts with ball bearing gearbox, idler wheel and road wheels goes a long way improving the durability problem. But they are much more expensive than the HL metal parts that you already invested in. The HL metal track is robust and runs fine outdoor. It does not look good due to the single pin and is slippery on indoor floor. A metal track with rubber pad is the best of both worlds, but much, much more expensive.
Can you prvide a link for that metal gearbox with bearings? for a future update?
Preferably a supplyer from europe, or from aliexpress.
I never had experience with tanks, although a long time ago my first rc was with rubber tracks (an excavator) i run it untill all wear out, really fun.
it was at the time still by wire, lol.
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