Official 3DP Thread

[Dirty Dee]

flight video of the A333 from last weekend.

[Kferros]

Does anyone have the files for the nose strut for the A4 and AvantiS

[Hardway]

Congrats!

[rifleman_btx]

Got the F86 up

[Dirty Dee]

I had to hit the one tuft of grass on the runway with the nose gear

[rifleman_btx]

Interesting, can definitely see the quality jump in there. I like it!

[Dirty Dee]

I rarely have warping issues. Occasionally I get elephant footing at the bottom 15mm of a part. Very large flat vertical sections like the belly fairing of my Airbus also gave me issues.

[RCjetdude]

Printing in ABS. 255 deg C nozzle, 80 deg C bed, no cooling fan. Cardboard box enclosure to remove drafts, and increase ambient temps slightly

How do you get around the warping that ABS is prone to? What ambient do you run?

[Dirty Dee]

Printing in ABS. 255 deg C nozzle, 80 deg C bed, no cooling fan. Cardboard box enclosure to remove drafts, and increase ambient temps slightly

[Elbee]

Here is something I found out from others and tested out myself.

If you have a 0.4mm nozzle, you can use that nozzle as a "0.3" or "0.25"mm nozzle by altering the settings in the slicer. Obviously, the prints may turn out a better quality with the actual 0.3 or 0.25 nozzles, but this is an easy way to try out finer printing. You just need to make sure to bump down the layer height to 0.15mm for 0.3mm nozzle settings, and 0.1mm for 0.25mm nozzle settings.

Attached picture of the U-2R horizontal stabilizer printed with a normal 0.4mm nozzle setting, and another with the fake 0.3mm.

DD, Great Tip. Are you printing with ABS or PLA or something else? The finish is very smooth. Best, LB

[Dirty Dee]

Here is something I found out from others and tested out myself.

If you have a 0.4mm nozzle, you can use that nozzle as a "0.3" or "0.25"mm nozzle by altering the settings in the slicer. Obviously, the prints may turn out a better quality with the actual 0.3 or 0.25 nozzles, but this is an easy way to try out finer printing. You just need to make sure to bump down the layer height to 0.15mm for 0.3mm nozzle settings, and 0.1mm for 0.25mm nozzle settings.

Attached picture of the U-2R horizontal stabilizer printed with a normal 0.4mm nozzle setting, and another with the fake 0.3mm.

[Hardway]

[rifleman_btx]

She is reborn, ready to fly!

[rifleman_btx]

Thats gonna be awesome

[Dirty Dee]

I think I have a pretty good representation of a dragon lady

[rifleman_btx]

Looks great

[Dirty Dee]

progress shot. I will start a thread on it in a week I think

[Dirty Dee]

If you could make a 3D printed F117 it would save me a lot of time scratch building one but I am not going to hold my breath as I am sure it would be a ways off.

you were making one for a 90mm fan right? I was planning on making one for a 50 or 70mm fan. If I did the 50mm, it might be pretty quick, but the 70 would be over a year out. I still want to make a 1/10th scale OV-10, an X-32 for 70mm, and a 717 for twin 50s

[rifleman_btx]

Very cool stuff

[RCjetdude]

Cool, I'll keep that offer in mind. First plane I plan to tackle would be the U-2R before I move onto the SR-71 and F117

If you could make a 3D printed F117 it would save me a lot of time scratch building one but I am not going to hold my breath as I am sure it would be a ways off.