Official Freewing 80mm EDF L-39 Albatros Thread

[JeremySean]

I have this problem and tried this procedure several times with no success. I put a Y harness on the rudder and nose wheel steering and it works but of course the nose wheel turns with the gear up. I don't know what else to do. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Aaron

My nose wheel servo turns with the nose wheel up and I am using the Blueboc... if you look at the linkage the nose wheel servo, the actual wheel does not move, only when it's down. Just leave it.

[Aaron Wallace]

I'm reading about a few of you having issues with the blue box (MCB-E). In general, the problem occurs after connecting everything to the control box and putting the gear down and immediately noticing you can't steer the plane. The problem is the rudder and steering servo are out of sync.

The procedure to put them in sync is the following. Do this with the radio on and battery connected to the ESC of the plane (do not power down plane or radio during tests). For safety, use throttle lock on your radio.

1. Remove steering servo wire from the steering servo port on the MCB-E and connect the steering servo wire to the 2nd rudder port on the MCB-E.
2. Test steering and rudder. Everything should work.
3. Cycle gear up and down 2 – 3 times.
4. Put gear up one last time.
5. Reconnect steering servo to the steering servo port on MCB-E.
6. Test steering with gear up – rudder servo should work, steering servo should not move with the gear up.
7. Put gear down, steering servo should work.

Once they are in sync, they stay in sync. The MCB-E is designed to stop your nose gear steering when the gear is up. You don't want your nose gear banging from side to side in the plane when the gear is up every time you use the rudder.

I have this problem and tried this procedure several times with no success. I put a Y harness on the rudder and nose wheel steering and it works but of course the nose wheel turns with the gear up. I don't know what else to do. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Aaron

[steven gubala]

Good to here that Jeremy, I like how you used the 45% expo . The battery was probably a little nose heavy, all in all it's a great plane may you have many more flights ahead of you

[JeremySean]

Did my maiden! She flew absolutely perfect. Make sure you guys listen to the book. I have a 103mm CG and I am using the 9 blade inrunner thats in the Freewing T-33..... Plane does well over 100mph.. Also, I used the 5800mah RT 35C and that worked liked a charm. I like to use high rates for elevator with 45% expo and I use low rates for ailerons with 40% expo... Rudder I always keep at high rates with 45% expo... I also used the recommended 1.0mm down for take off flaps and 1.5mm down for landing flaps and that worked just fine... I'm not a fan of when a plane balloons, never liked that, so much so that I use heavier batteries to avoid the plane ballooning. The most accidents I have seen besides a brown out is ballooning and over flares..

I only flew for 3 min just to make sure the motor isn't eating the battery alive and when I landed I had 69% left on the battery... so I think the best battery size for this bird is 5000mah-6000mah... it's not like its a high alpha jet anyways so mine as well go heavier..

Last thing, she will roll for weeks on landing so make sure you either have a lot of room or make sure to slow her down a little, she slows down very stable. When I put it in landing configuration, it took more aileron than usual to get her to turn for final approach so don't be scared of the flaps. Also on landing, you can dead stick this one.... discern your speed though.

Also for the neutral positions on the controls, I have everything lined up flat. No up, nor down on all control surfaces.

[steven gubala]

Using a dx9 transmitter and a admiral 6 channel receiver

[steven gubala]

what is the proper set-up for the freewing l-39 albatross?

[steven gubala]

Good luck, JeremySean, let us know how it goes.

[JeremySean]

Just waiting on Callie Graphics and I'll maiden her tomorrow :)

[Hemidoo]

I run these in my Freewing 80mm EDF's ... Both have great punch

https://www.motionrc.com/collections...-ec5-connector

https://rcjetwerx.com/product/rcj-6s-4000-60c/

[JPriami]

Yeah that’s another reason I mentioned I was looking at weights. It wasn’t just about pack weight in the plane. But also a way to tell what packs might be using exaggerated specs. High specs & little weight compared to other known good brands of same spec etc etc. I think we are on the same page. Thanks 4 the replies.

I’m going to order the camo version of this fine looking plane & the genace 5500 lipo. I liked the landing gear setup on this plane. It looks like a good one for my grass field at home.

[xviper]

GensAce are pricey but you get a lot for the money. Go by what others have experienced as being good. If in doubt, get as high a "C" rating as you can afford. It may not give you what the label says, but at least even if it gives you 1/2, you're likely going to make out fine. Also, the weigh can be a give away. You gotta question a high C battery that weighs next to nothing by comparison to other batteries.

[JPriami]

It depends on the brand of LiPo. Most brands exaggerate the marked "C" rating, usually by twice what it actually is. My 50C GensAce will perform better than any of my 65-130C Graphenes. An EDF doesn't really need even 50C, but it's what the battery really gives that counts. If you put in a 70C Zippy that puts out only 30C, your jet is going perform like a wet noodle. Don't look at "pack specs". Go by proven tests. You can find them on the internet. From that, you'll know what you are getting.

Thanks. The recommendation lipos on motion are out of stock. I was just trying to find something similar but not cheapest junk. Looks like some genace 5500s are available. Maybe I’ll get those. I’ve seen some similar spektrum packs too.

[xviper]

If your going to run a 5000mah pack. Does it still need to be 60C+ or will 50C be just fine? I’m trying to look at pack specs & taking weight into account. Some packs even though they are rated similar. Can greatly vary on weight depending on brand.

It depends on the brand of LiPo. Most brands exaggerate the marked "C" rating, usually by twice what it actually is. My 50C GensAce will perform better than any of my 65-130C Graphenes. An EDF doesn't really need even 50C, but it's what the battery really gives that counts. If you put in a 70C Zippy that puts out only 30C, your jet is going perform like a wet noodle. Don't look at "pack specs". Go by proven tests. You can find them on the internet. From that, you'll know what you are getting.

[JPriami]

If your going to run a 5000mah pack. Does it still need to be 60C+ or will 50C be just fine? I’m trying to look at pack specs & taking weight into account. Some packs even though they are rated similar. Can greatly vary on weight depending on brand.

[Spencer Keith]

That’s really hard to say, You haven’t told us what type of receiver/radio you are using. We don’t know if all your wiring is correct - ie, throttle lead to throttle port? AIL to AIL port? Etc. Can you confirm that all the stuff plugged into the blue box are in the right pins by cross referencing with the blue box diagram? What happens when you work the elevator stick? When you work the throttle stick, does both the motor and the elevator react? Look at the channel and port assignments in the TX. Have any of these been altered? If all of this checks out OK, then it could be a bad blue box and you’ll have to bypass it by using “Y’s” and extensions to go directly to the RX.

Got it all fixed and had 4 great flights today. Thank you

[xviper]

Question please. I tried calibrating my esc and now when I throttle up my elevator goes up? What did I do wrong and how do I fix that? Look at mixing and nothing

That’s really hard to say, You haven’t told us what type of receiver/radio you are using. We don’t know if all your wiring is correct - ie, throttle lead to throttle port? AIL to AIL port? Etc. Can you confirm that all the stuff plugged into the blue box are in the right pins by cross referencing with the blue box diagram? What happens when you work the elevator stick? When you work the throttle stick, does both the motor and the elevator react? Look at the channel and port assignments in the TX. Have any of these been altered? If all of this checks out OK, then it could be a bad blue box and you’ll have to bypass it by using “Y’s” and extensions to go directly to the RX.

[Spencer Keith]

Question please. I tried calibrating my esc and now when I throttle up my elevator goes up? What did I do wrong and how do I fix that? Look at mixing and nothing

[Kahmed]

That's the way mine is. It doesn't really bother me since, in the air, nobody can tell anyway and on the ground the gear is down until it's time to pack it back into the car.

Yeah I messed around with it a bit more and gave up. It might have to do with the spring tension. It’s fine I guess.

[xviper]

I did play around with all of that. Did have the strut catch the door and backed off. But then the gap increased a lot. I’m thinking about maybe heating the door a little and shaping it.

That's the way mine is. It doesn't really bother me since, in the air, nobody can tell anyway and on the ground the gear is down until it's time to pack it back into the car.

[Kahmed]

The front gear door on this plane is not servo actuated. Yes, there is a servo rod but it's not connected to a servo. It's connected to a bar that is pushed on by the strut. The whole mechanism is spring loaded to stay open when there is no strut against it. And yes, it's a matter of playing with the length of that servo rod and through trial and error with repeated closing and openings that the gap in the door is reduced to the desired amount when closed. However, there is a compromise between having a small gap to having the door stay open insufficiently and it gets in the way of the strut as it tries to retract, thereby causing a jamb mid-travel. Some doors, I believe have a slight warp in it and this makes it impossible to close that gap completely without it catching the strut in a bad way during the closing phase.

I did play around with all of that. Did have the strut catch the door and backed off. But then the gap increased a lot. I’m thinking about maybe heating the door a little and shaping it.