Official Freewing 70mm Yak-130 Thread

[Evan D]

Not sorry. First there's a reason it's cheaper, $50 for the PNP to PNP and $100 to the ARF plus. Second the wire gear works well. Third it's NOT something sold by HH. Last you couldn't have bought the FMS one anyway since it, like a lot of their stuff, is out of stock.

[Gilatrout]

Sorry Gilatrout but all you had to do was a bit more research, it clearly shows wire suspension on the spares page and merry boozer did a comparison video between the fms and freewing yak on youtube. you could buy oleo suspension on e bay, here is a link. $32 on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254096450892 if you want it. just cut down the Freewing wires to create the pins. Also the mains springs are a bit weak and may need replacing which is a bit of a pain. You could of course try leaving the wire mains springs and just add oleo to nose, you just need an oleo with wheel max 90mm from top of oleo to bottom of wheel.( 80mm would be better and cut pin length to suit ) It is a simpler cheaper option and will take the nodding nose effect out. an ebay search should find one, consider this :- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3300...31a74c4d8ye4DV. You would have to take one of the springs off to get the right spring strength.

thank you, this is very helpful.

[MeyerVW]

Some flying.

[Evan D]

The earth has tilted! :)

[xviper]

23 degrees, so that's looks about right.

[MeyerVW]

Its a nice spot for the camera but not so nice when watching it. May go to the belly for mounting. Sorry for the odd angle. LOL

[paulrkytek]

Further to my post 160 above I had 2 flights off grass at the weekend with Freewing wire mains and simple oleo front and the yak took off and landed no problem, in fact I am going to keep the wire mains as the oleos tended to spin around on landings. I have also gone for a knee spring type nose leg using the 95mm unit from this link and replacing the wheel with the freewing nosewheel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amD3z-_sqdA . note these units come with a choice of 3 or 4mm pin hole so pick the correct one, also I had one designated Right hand in stock so I used it but you are better off selecting left hand to avoid hitting the steering servo. I took one spring off to get the correct "give" in the knee for my 3300 mah 6s battery. I have also done this with my Hawk T1 and it works fine. Note a few adjustments to clear the foam and steering servo arm with the back of the upright on the leg filed to ensure retract servo operates without stalling and letting the wheel go further in . Also need to trim the plastic cover a touch to ensure the new gear does not foul. This type of external spring fitting does give more movement and damping action than the internal cylinder type . Yes its a bit of a pain but retirement leaves me with plenty of time to play!!!

[xviper]

Further to my post 160 above I had 2 flights off grass at the weekend with Freewing wire mains and simple oleo front and the yak took off and landed no problem, in fact I am going to keep the wire mains as the oleos tended to spin around on landings. I have also gone for a knee spring type nose leg using the 95mm unit from this link and replacing the wheel with the freewing nosewheel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amD3z-_sqdA . note these units come with a choice of 3 or 4mm pin hole so pick the correct one, also I had one designated Right hand in stock so I used it but you are better off selecting left hand to avoid hitting the steering servo. I took one spring off to get the correct "give" in the knee for my 3300 mah 6s battery. I have also done this with my Hawk T1 and it works fine. Note a few adjustments to clear the foam and steering servo arm with the back of the upright on the leg filed to ensure retract servo operates without stalling and letting the wheel go further in . Also need to trim the plastic cover a touch to ensure the new gear does not foul. This type of external spring fitting does give more movement and damping action than the internal cylinder type . Yes its a bit of a pain but retirement leaves me with plenty of time to play!!!

If I'm not mistaken, your picture of the front gear is a "trailing link", as are the two URLs you put up in your previous post. "Oleos" are sort of telescopic where the lower part of the strut slides inside the upper cylinder.

[paulrkytek]

If I'm not mistaken, your picture of the front gear is a "trailing link", as are the two URLs you put up in your previous post. "Oleos" are sort of telescopic where the lower part of the strut slides inside the upper cylinder.

Not necessarily . My weekend flight was with wire mains and the straight front oleo as per photo of said oleo attached. I have now replaced the oleo with the external spring knee bend/trailing link type in the links I attached previously. My previous mains oleos had a trailing arm/link/wheel set up but I still call them oleos because they have an internal spring. Maybe its a transatlantic thing

My third side view photo shows the front oleo I took out and rear trailing link oleo ( which had a habit of turning out of line )I took out.

Photos are shown ready to fly with battery weight added and nose pressed down to show movement which was nowhere near as much with the straight oleo

[xviper]

Maybe its a transatlantic thing

Maybe, maybe not. It could be just me. In your last photo where you have to the two struts propped up against the green block, the one on the left, I call "Oleo". The one on the right, even though it has the internal spring, by virtue of the way the lower part is hinged, I call it a "trailing link". No matter, I guess what's important is what works for you.
BTW, my current 90mm Yak 130 has struts that look "loaded" on all 3 corners like yours when you press on it.

[Evan D]

My read is he had the one on the left on the plane and has now swapped to the trailing link so his saying oleo is correct. That said I consider oleo's to be so when they have internal damping but that's splitting hairs.

[Martinyak]

Hello, I have a servo wiring question. Normally the colors of the servo wires are brown, Red and orange. But on my yak there are 2 servos having black, Red and White wires. Can you please tell me how the different color wires are connected together? Black-brown, red-red, white-orange i think. Is it right that way? Many thanks and sorry for my Bad english.

[RRHandy]

Hello, I have a servo wiring question. Normally the colors of the servo wires are brown, Red and orange. But on my yak there are 2 servos having black, Red and White wires. Can you please tell me how the different color wires are connected together? Black-brown, red-red, white-orange i think. Is it right that way? Many thanks and sorry for my Bad english.

That is correct, the thing to remember is that the signal wire is the white or the orange and the ground is brown or black, that of course would change if they use different colors to manufacture them.

[Martinyak]

I Wonder why there are 2 servos having different Wire colors. Why did freewing do that?

[jasmith41]

Hello, I have a servo wiring question. Normally the colors of the servo wires are brown, Red and orange. But on my yak there are 2 servos having black, Red and White wires. Can you please tell me how the different color wires are connected together? Black-brown, red-red, white-orange i think. Is it right that way? Many thanks and sorry for my Bad english.

Being an old moron myself, I always second guess that when I encounter it, and the best way for me to remember it is lightest wire to lightest wire and darkest wire to darkest wire. The FW F15 I just got done putting together had a red, white and black on one side of the elevators and a brown, red, and orange on the other - threw me for a momentary loop, but figured they just ran out of brown, red, and orange wire or something...

[jasmith41]

The other possibility is that the Chinese are color-blind...🤣

[jasmith41]

I Wonder why there are 2 servos having different Wire colors. Why did freewing do that?

See above second post...(?)

[xviper]

I Wonder why there are 2 servos having different Wire colors. Why did freewing do that?

I see that you are showing the "flap" servo. The different colors from the flap servo on one side as compared to the flap servo on the other side may have something to do with one of them being a "reversed" servo. If memory serves me correctly from when I flew the FW 70mm Yak, the flap servos were mounted in mirror image and since they operate in the same direction as each other, one has to be a reversed servo. By contrast, take a look at the aileron servos. They are also mount in mirror image, however, they work their surfaces opposite to each other (ie, when one goes up, the other goes down) and as such, can be the same direction of servo. Oh, it's not just Freewing.
As for "polarity" of servo leads, I only worry about ensuring that ground goes to ground and ground is almost always black or brown. You may also find that if you try to plug them in backwards, they are a bit harder to shove together. That's usually your first clue to take a closer look at where the ground wire is. Usually, you can get away with plugging a servo lead backwards - nothing happens when you work the stick that controls it. However, every once in a while plugging one in backwards and powering it up can kill it.

[Martinyak]

You are right. That reverse servo thing is the right explanation. One of the flap servos has the different wire colors and one of the elevator servos also does.

[Evan D]

Colors go back to the Futaba and JR days where Futaba were red black and white and JR were orange brown yellow and they went different directions.