I had those on mine. There are a couple of things you have to do to get around the problem your video showed. First, the reason why they seem to get stuck in the "raised" position is that the strut/tire hits the roof of the wheel well and prevents the retract from reaching the "end" contact switch. That's why if you push on the strut, you help it get to the end stop and it deploys. By reaming out or hollowing out some material where the tire makes contact, the end stop can be reached. You will know that you have removed enough material when the tire can be rotated freely.
Next, on mine, the wheel well cover openings weren't quite allowing the assembly to move in and out without some impedance. I used mini-scissors to cut away the offending bits to open up the hole.
However, lastly, that wasn't my only problem. Because the trailing links were mounted on the retract pin a bit off center, every time the thing rolled on the ground (take off and landing), the force of the ground (vibrations) tried to "straighten" out the strut. I did finally resolved this but it involved grinding a very distinct flat and in the exact needed location so the hex screws would grab and keep the strut in the correct orientation. This also wasn't enough. The strut worked itself loose easily and it wasn't till I used some FoamTac on the grub screws AND in the hole of the strut itself that it stayed put. By then, I got very good at belly landing, so didn't use the gear when coming down. By the time I started at a new field where there was a prepared runway, I had sold the plane.
I now have the 90mm Yak 130 and because of the huge stock trailing link retracts and wheels, no mods are needed and those work flawlessly.
Next, on mine, the wheel well cover openings weren't quite allowing the assembly to move in and out without some impedance. I used mini-scissors to cut away the offending bits to open up the hole.
However, lastly, that wasn't my only problem. Because the trailing links were mounted on the retract pin a bit off center, every time the thing rolled on the ground (take off and landing), the force of the ground (vibrations) tried to "straighten" out the strut. I did finally resolved this but it involved grinding a very distinct flat and in the exact needed location so the hex screws would grab and keep the strut in the correct orientation. This also wasn't enough. The strut worked itself loose easily and it wasn't till I used some FoamTac on the grub screws AND in the hole of the strut itself that it stayed put. By then, I got very good at belly landing, so didn't use the gear when coming down. By the time I started at a new field where there was a prepared runway, I had sold the plane.
I now have the 90mm Yak 130 and because of the huge stock trailing link retracts and wheels, no mods are needed and those work flawlessly.

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