Man an 80mm F-35C would be awesome! Hopefully Motion makes one! Or I might just have to make one myself
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Official Freewing 70mm F-35 V3 (2019 Version) Thread
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Originally posted by JeremySean View PostMan an 80mm F-35C would be awesome! Hopefully Motion makes one! Or I might just have to make one myself
I'd love to see motion do an 80 or 90mm f-35 though.
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Originally posted by 406PIlot View Post
I put an 80mm fan system in my f35. Didn't work to tell well. Even increasing the outlet size didn't help.
I'd love to see motion do an 80 or 90mm f-35 though.
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Happy days!
I'm about to join the F35 owners club. After my Su35 met its fate way to early I suddenly have two FMS 6S 1900kV inrunners with no airframe. This has now been remedied with a F35 ARF+ on its way. I have read through this thread and found two important things: Dull down the aileron rates and some washout on the ailerons for landing is nice to have. Anything else that is recommended?
If anyone is interested in why the negative flaperons work instead of normal flaperons I'm quite sure the answer is the lifting body fuselage. A normal wing on a normal aircraft is slightly twisted so that when the nose up attitude increases the inner part of the wing stalls first since its AoA is higher, keeping the airflow attached on the outer portion and thereby creating lift since its AoA is less. With a greater moment-arm the outer part of the wing is able to compensate and keep the aircraft level even if the inner part is beginning to have its airflow detached and thereby reducing the risk of a sudden wing drop when the aircraft starts to stall.
With the body of the F35 producing quite a lot of lift when giving it some AoA, by adding some flaps to the wing, you are giving the wing a higher AoA compared to the body and thereby the wing will lose some lift before the body and the flight characteristics suffer. On the other hand, with a negative flap setting, the nose position needs to be higher for the wing to have the same AoA and therefore more lift is produced by the body and the wings keep on flying with a higher nose attitude resulting in a lower speed with good control.
On the full size aircraft all is taken care of by the computers, but I think this explanation is valid for our models.
Looking forward to assemble and fly this one!
/Tobias
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Tango Victor has nailed it with his analysis regarding negative flaperons.In fact, crow braking has the same effect .What happens is the centre of lift moves forward,pitching the aircraft up and allowing the speed to reduce with the higher drag.On the F35, this allows the lifting body to take effect..I will experiment with this when I receive mine shortly but I can tell you from my turbine models that there can be too much drag with crow braking so be prepared....
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This is just me making an educated guess without having flown it yet: For takeoff a little bit of flaperon will help it get up in the air quicker. During landing a little bit of spoileron will transfer more lift to the fuselage with a slower landing speed as a result compared to normal use. If this is necessary or not is another question, but as with everything else in this hobby it isn't always about getting it perfect, it is about doing what you want for whatever reason you have.
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I have been flying mine a lot, for a small, simple jet it has great presence and for me no bad habits. With Gooniacs Fire Booty it is my most impressive afterburner too. I fly it on a 4000 mAh pack and get 4 minute flights. I haven't done anything with spoilers or flaperons, it lands and takes off just fine. I do have a gyro in mine, the one MRC sells for $22.
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Originally posted by Husafreak View PostI have been flying mine a lot, for a small, simple jet it has great presence and for me no bad habits. With Gooniacs Fire Booty it is my most impressive afterburner too. I fly it on a 4000 mAh pack and get 4 minute flights. I haven't done anything with spoilers or flaperons, it lands and takes off just fine. I do have a gyro in mine, the one MRC sells for $22.
A more accurate and heavier nozzle for the F-35 V3. The existing foam nozzle plugs into the rear fuselage and is held in place with tacky glue. It is easily removed and this fits in its place. I suggest taping over the join inside the tailpipe to help ensure a smooth airflow. Being heavier than the foam nozzle, this can be used as tailweight in case the CG needs to be moved aft.
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Today I maidened my F35 ARF+ with a FMS 1900kV pro installed. It flew great and performance was very good, I like this one much more than the Freewing F16 hp. I have it setup with tailerons and I will add a little flaperon to it to get better grass takeoff performance. I will also carve out a little to get the battery further back, but happy with todays flights.
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So my maiden flight for the F35 did not go well. Not sure exactly what happened but takeoff seemed to take WAY too long, and it steered/rolled hard left on the default specs from the manual. Anyways, I know they sell replacement parts but it appears I won't be able to directly replace what I need to, as the parts are glued in? Not sure what to do from here, whether I should just order a new fuselage and take the time to rebuild, or if I should order the replacements and just use those. For detail, the right wing got smashed off and the carbon tube broke. But the plane tore the two anchor points off the right wing, and I'm assuming those can't be replaced due to the glue.
Any help would be appreciated or advice on where to head from here.
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jmac460 Do you have a photo of the damage? I'm not sure that will necessarily give you a better answer, some guys can make packing peanuts back into a jet.
Personally, if it's a plane I like and know I can fly it, then I would probably buy another plane and hold the damaged one to fix or part out. Or buy a new fuse down the road to have two. But I am not suggesting that to you. Money is money, you have to decide for yourself.
I stuffed a Yak edf on the maiden because I hastily set it up so I could fly it at a meet, the gyro was reversed on my ailerons, not on the elevator or rudder. My mistake wasn't the absent minded setup it was the preflight. Anyway, it took some time and reflection but I ended up getting another Yak and I'm really glad that I did.
The F35 benefits Assan steering gyro for straight tracking and does take some rolling distance to get up to speed. But is there a chance that you didn't calibrate the ESC and weren't achieving full thrust?
Sorry for the loss. It sucks.
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Originally posted by SanExup View Postjmac460 Do you have a photo of the damage? I'm not sure that will necessarily give you a better answer, some guys can make packing peanuts back into a jet.
Personally, if it's a plane I like and know I can fly it, then I would probably buy another plane and hold the damaged one to fix or part out. Or buy a new fuse down the road to have two. But I am not suggesting that to you. Money is money, you have to decide for yourself.
I stuffed a Yak edf on the maiden because I hastily set it up so I could fly it at a meet, the gyro was reversed on my ailerons, not on the elevator or rudder. My mistake wasn't the absent minded setup it was the preflight. Anyway, it took some time and reflection but I ended up getting another Yak and I'm really glad that I did.
The F35 benefits Assan steering gyro for straight tracking and does take some rolling distance to get up to speed. But is there a chance that you didn't calibrate the ESC and weren't achieving full thrust?
Sorry for the loss. It sucks.
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