Official Freewing Twin 70mm AL37 Airliner Thread

[GliderGuy]

Hi GG, thanks for your reply and great knowledge throughout this whole topic.

if I have understood you correctly you recommend 2 x extra rods at the top, one each side of dead centre, and 2 x extras at the bottom , one each side of dead centre? I have attached what I think is correct.


also , yes I read your post earlier in the topic and plan to insert a carbon square rod in the wing wiring channel.

many thanks,

The bottoms are not needed. They won’t hurt, but the stress is at the top caused by hard landings.

Looks good either way.

-GG

[Scots_rubz]

Hi SR,
I used what I had handy. 2 inches in length, and small enough diameter so you can drill holes in the fuselage walls and leave foam all around the rod.

2 rods embedded length wise on either side of top dead center and going across the fuselage joint is all it takes. Go about 1 inch “into” each fuselage “half”.

If you want to avoid top wing skin cracks that will happen after a lot of flying, remove the motor nacelles from the wing so you can get to the wiring channels in the wing. Flip the wing over so the top wing skin is on the work surface. Cut as long a piece of about 1/4 inch square carbon rod that you can fit into the length of the wiring channel and epoxy the rod against the inside of the top wing skin. Use 5 min epoxy because you will need to press the rod against the top wing skin while it cures.

If you elect not doing this, after a lot of flights, she will look like this…..

-GG

Hi GG, thanks for your reply and great knowledge throughout this whole topic.

if I have understood you correctly you recommend 2 x extra rods at the top, one each side of dead centre, and 2 x extras at the bottom , one each side of dead centre? I have attached what I think is correct.


also , yes I read your post earlier in the topic and plan to insert a carbon square rod in the wing wiring channel.

many thanks,

[Scots_rubz]

Hi SR,
I used what I had handy. 2 inches in length, and small enough diameter so you can drill holes in the fuselage walls and leave foam all around the rod.

2 rods embedded length wise on either side of top dead center and going across the fuselage joint is all it takes. Go about 1 inch “into” each fuselage “half”.

If you want to avoid top wing skin cracks that will happen after a lot of flying, remove the motor nacelles from the wing so you can get to the wiring channels in the wing. Flip the wing over so the top wing skin is on the work surface. Cut as long a piece of about 1/4 inch square carbon rod that you can fit into the length of the wiring channel and epoxy the rod against the inside of the top wing skin. Use 5 min epoxy because you will need to press the rod against the top wing skin while it cures.

If you elect not doing this, after a lot of flights, she will look like this…..

-GG

Hi GG, thanks for your reply and great knowledge throughout this whole topic.

if I have understood you correctly you recommend 2 x extra rods at the top, one each side of dead centre, and 2 x extras at the bottom , one each side of dead centre? I have attached what I think is correct.

also , yes I read your post earlier in the topic and plan to insert a carbon square rod in the wing wiring channel.

many thanks,

[GliderGuy]

Hi SR,
I used what I had handy. 2 inches in length, and small enough diameter so you can drill holes in the fuselage walls and leave foam all around the rod.

2 rods embedded length wise on either side of top dead center and going across the fuselage joint is all it takes. Go about 1 inch “into” each fuselage “half”.

If you want to avoid top wing skin cracks that will happen after a lot of flying, remove the motor nacelles from the wing so you can get to the wiring channels in the wing. Flip the wing over so the top wing skin is on the work surface. Cut as long a piece of about 1/4 inch square carbon rod that you can fit into the length of the wiring channel and epoxy the rod against the inside of the top wing skin. Use 5 min epoxy because you will need to press the rod against the top wing skin while it cures.

If you elect not doing this, after a lot of flights, she will look like this…..

-GG

[f4u ausie]

The spa in mine is out of an old plane and square ,about 200 mm long ,,, i had well glued my fuse tgether at that point so used a soldeing iron externally to melt a groove to fit the spa,, then epoxy in place.... b4 i did that u could push down on front and back of it,, and c seperation... not now it works... its about 3 mm.. im sure glider guy will chime in hes the guru on this one... for what its worth,, when u get it in the air,, its an impressive sight ,, but very quick,, 3 minuts for me, coming down at 380 a cell,, so a bit more if i want.. just wana b safe

[Scots_rubz]

Thanks for the welcome f4u ausie & Aros.

first question i have is what is the recommended diameter and length of the extra carbon fiber rods for joining the two halfs of the fuselage together?

thanks.

[f4u ausie]

Have noticed since maiden two of em ,, loose nacelles ,, think they useing less glue to save money(as we all do) so here is my solution inc extra glue under retract mounts stops the wobbly wobbly... have already pre maiden glued in top support for the fuse joint way more solid

[GliderGuy]

A beauty! Lots of fun flying ahead of you.

Happy to have been of some help.

For a true vision, take off 15 min before sunrise or 15 min after sunset and leave the gear down and come overhead fairly high. She looks sooooo real all lit up. Takes some practice to fly in the dim light, however.

-GG

[f4u ausie]

Did u feel the earthqauke ,, it was me shakin in my boots,,,, maden 2 flights done and dusted finally.. flys like a baby.. ,, right on cg and no elev flap mix,, looks like its flying slow, but when u land ,, its travelling faster than u think,,, very docile,, looks absolutely incredible in the sky level wings at take off,, made sure had good speed,, thanx to glider guy for ur help(right on the money)

[davidsai]

Hi Guys, i put together this al37 about a year ago, flew once because battery connector got hot and original solder just desoldered. so it flew for about 3 minutes. first flight. landed by itself on grass on lot next to runway. but the lights of me i dont remember what did i do that now i cant get the ailerons to turn up and donw, they either go up or down at same time. any ideas-. thank you.

[davidsai]

Hi Guys, i put together this al37 about a year ago, flew once because battery connector got hot and original solder just desoldered. so it flew for about 3 minutes. first flight. landed by itself on grass on lot next to runway. but the lights of me i dont remember what did i do that now i cant get the ailerons to turn up and domw, they either go up or down at same time. any ideas-. thank you.

[Aros]

Welcome Scots_rubz !

[f4u ausie]

Welcome to the sqauark team. Scots

[Scots_rubz]

Hello fellow aviators,

new-be here from Scotland with 2x AL37’s. I have read almost every post on every page and have a list of modifications / improvements to make to the 2 (one brand new and one second hand) i have in my hanger.

I plan to repaint both of them, one in Sunwing colours and the other as the RAF Poseidon MRA1.

i do have a couple questions regarding paint preparations / clear coatings on these models.

but hello and impressed with the great knowledge shown in this thread 👍🏻.

[f4u ausie]

Hi all...
I'm just starting to fly my AL37. She banks hard right on lift off and full throttle with all surfaces at neutral position. The starboard side horizontal stab was about 10mm higher than the port side, but I've got that down to less than 3mm, but she still pulls right bank. It's hard to fly. I've tried everything except trying to see if the port EDF is pulling more than the right side, but i think it is...
I've calibrated the ESCs (at the same time). Should i try to Calibrate them separately?
From what i'm hearing from other AL37 owners, this issue is not uncommon...

Any thoughts from the Gurus...?
Please advise. I won't judge. If it's me, I can take it...

Was to windy for my maiden thismorning (sunday here) cant wait,, any way i have watched every u tube vid possible over and over..... (dont want to tip still) like some have,,, afew have had a roll to the right some scraping winglets,, the one thing i noticed was they were all a shorter run up.. not enuf speed just a thought... the pilot ryan one with his friend( military scheme ) does it ,,, even on touch ngo

[themudduck]

Hi all...
I'm just starting to fly my AL37...

I am wondering if you could put a prop tach on the EDF to see if one is turning faster than the other when you run them up. Tachometers made for props won't give a correct reading on an EDF (because of the blade count) but the reading you get on one could be compared to the reading on the other one - which might give you the answer. I have a hunch that one of your fans is turning faster or slower than the other one. If that in the case, then you could try calibrating but it could be that the two motors aren't exactly identical.

[jasmith41]

Hmmmm…jasmith41,

I have flown 3 AL-37 (wore one out, crashed one into a light pole, and now happily flying bird #3).

None of the 3 behaved as you state. So, something is different with your bird.

If you are possibly getting a tip stall effect, try adjusting both ailerons up 5 mm when the stick is neutral.

I once flew with one winglet on and one off while the glue was drying on one of them. It DID behave badly and like you state. So….try flying with both winglets OFF! Maybe one is misaligned?

I calibrated both ESCs at the same time.

Finally, double check all flaps are aligned the same AND that there are no loose aileron or flap horns. And get in front dead center with the bird on a table. Move your head up and down as you watch ALL flying surfaces. You should not see anything odd or misaligned as you watch all flying surfaces.

-GG

Thanks again...

[GliderGuy]

Hmmmm…jasmith41,

I have flown 3 AL-37 (wore one out, crashed one into a light pole, and now happily flying bird #3).

None of the 3 behaved as you state. So, something is different with your bird.

If you are possibly getting a tip stall effect, try adjusting both ailerons up 5 mm when the stick is neutral.

I once flew with one winglet on and one off while the glue was drying on one of them. It DID behave badly and like you state. So….try flying with both winglets OFF! Maybe one is misaligned?

I calibrated both ESCs at the same time.

Finally, double check all flaps are aligned the same AND that there are no loose aileron or flap horns. And get in front dead center with the bird on a table. Move your head up and down as you watch ALL flying surfaces. You should not see anything odd or misaligned as you watch all flying surfaces.

-GG

[jasmith41]

Fellow Motion R.C. enthusiasts!.
The Wallsburg Warbird Works is pleased to announce our CFO has approved the acquisition of a Freewing AL-37 for our growing fleet.
now the question is, do I have Callie make up grafics to honor my father who was Pan Am's last senior pilot. Or something a bit more modern and colorful?.
Either way I am looking forward to the challenges of the modifications recommended by members of this forum.
flying this beautiful bird is enthusiastically awaited!.

The PanAm livery would be great on it.

[jasmith41]

Hi all...
I'm just starting to fly my AL37. She banks hard right on lift off and full throttle with all surfaces at neutral position. The starboard side horizontal stab was about 10mm higher than the port side, but I've got that down to less than 3mm, but she still pulls right bank. It's hard to fly. I've tried everything except trying to see if the port EDF is pulling more than the right side, but i think it is...
I've calibrated the ESCs (at the same time). Should i try to Calibrate them separately?
From what i'm hearing from other AL37 owners, this issue is not uncommon...

Any thoughts from the Gurus...?
Please advise. I won't judge. If it's me, I can take it...