Official Freewing Twin 70mm SR-71 Blackbird with Gyro EDF Jet Thread

[EDF-Jetpilot]

I also do those pre sunrise flights on all the jets and helis I have owned, I love getting that first flight in right before the sun peeks over the mountains. I flew the SR-71 a little too early one time and it was a little nerve racking, I didn't know which way it was heading a couple of times. I also just did the maiden flight on the new 90mm F-16 at sunrise, the camo paint works very well on it for sure....

Nothing beats those sunrise flights......

Oh yes, that could be. But I don't like getting up that early, so I've never done that. It's nice to fly during the day too, and in the summer I usually fly in the evening until shortly after sunset.

[DCORSAIR]

I wait for 15 min prior to sunrise. By then, the SR-71 presents a good silhouette once airborne and is easy to see. Much earlier…it can be a problem. Clear sky is best.

Same goes for all my RC planes which are often flown 15 min prior sunrise for flight #1. 15 min post sunset is the latest normally flown.

-GG

I also do those pre sunrise flights on all the jets and helis I have owned, I love getting that first flight in right before the sun peeks over the mountains. I flew the SR-71 a little too early one time and it was a little nerve racking, I didn't know which way it was heading a couple of times. I also just did the maiden flight on the new 90mm F-16 at sunrise, the camo paint works very well on it for sure....

Nothing beats those sunrise flights......

[Aros]

Braver than me, GG...lol!

Looking forward to my next sortie with her and seeing the dang chute deploy would be nice! I can't believe how well Freewing did with her flight characteristics. Obviously the gyro helps, and keeping the ailerons limited a bit in throw really makes this bird a pleasure to fly.

[GliderGuy]

Must be hard to see b4 sunup:flushed:

I wait for 15 min prior to sunrise. By then, the SR-71 presents a good silhouette once airborne and is easy to see. Much earlier…it can be a problem. Clear sky is best.

Same goes for all my RC planes which are often flown 15 min prior sunrise for flight #1. 15 min post sunset is the latest normally flown.

-GG

[f4u ausie]

Must be hard to see b4 sunup:flushed:

[GliderGuy]

After far too many windy and rainy days, this morning dawned cool and calm. Made 2 pre-sunrise and 3 post sunrise flights before heading to work.

This bird is such a thrill to fly, and it looks so awesome in the air.

-GG

[Aros]

As far as I know? Video?

[Shaun Evans]

Am I the first one to convert this?

[Aros]

Ooooooh, yeeeeeaaaaaaah.

[Shaun Evans]

Blackbird to Single Turbine A-12 conversion done.

[GliderGuy]

Several more landings (66 total flights) are showing that additional attention to the mains is needed. In a previous post, it is discussed how the “U” shaped main axle support will need care if it bends outa shape even a little bit.

After yesterday’s flights, I noticed again that the mains were not rolling easily.

Some additional Dremel tool re-engineering corrected the binding. The axle is a little too short, so if the “U” axle support spreads even a little, the pressure on axle head and “C” clip cause the outer wheels to bind. Also, the tire material tends to deform/spread out and rub against the “U” axle support.

Not gonna go into all the “re-engineering” here because it is obvious where to Dremel on the plastic wheel hubs to remove the material that is binding.

You’ll need to attack the following places:
-Re-shape the tire…remove the outer edge “side wall” part that is spreading out and binding against the “U” support.
-Remove the plastic in areas of the hub where you see binding…including the center raised area by the axle hole…including the outer plastic wheel rim area.

Removal of the plastic hub material has the same effect as lengthening the axle. Once done correctly, you will note space between the axle head and the “C” clip and the plastic hubs of the outer wheels.

After some time spent tweaking, all six main wheels are freely spinning again. Periodic rechecking of the wheel spinning freely will be required. That is unless you make every landing butter smooth. 😜

Suggestion…you may want to buy some main spares to keep handy. Eventually, you’ll need them, so it seems.

-GG

PS Getting 3:30 comfortably with Admiral 6000 and mostly 60 to 65% throttle position…a little full throttle hot rodding. Leaves enough for a go-around. Fly faster…fly shorter.

[GliderGuy]

Also, I got those clips you mentioned to help reduce power loss. How in the heck do you open them?!

Good…
Note: The clip-on RF chokes reduce RF noise…not power loss.

Look on one side of the RF choke. You will see 2 small latches. The 2 curved lines in the sketch below show where the clasps are. Use something thin to lift the latch clasps. Once installed…add a zip tie to ensure the choke stays closed. CAUTION….Take care not to mash or crush the wires between the two halves when you close and latch the RF choke.

Once you unlatch the small clasps, unfold the choke and place it so the wires run down the center channel. Then clasp closed. The arrow shows the wires.

-GG

[GliderGuy]

Here’s how I measured, unscientific perhaps. Now it says 21”. Diameter, circumference? Same thing? I sucked at math and measuring lol.

That is diameter. Thanks.

-GG

[Aros]

Also, I got those clips you mentioned to help reduce power loss. How in the heck do you open them?!

[Aros]

Here’s how I measured, unscientific perhaps. Now it says 21”. Diameter, circumference? Same thing? I sucked at math and measuring lol.

[Aros]

I measured from side to side when pulled completely apart. Is that not right?

[GliderGuy]

Boy was I off. It's actually 20".

You sure? A 20 inch circumference is only 6.4 inches in diameter. That’s pretty small.

-GG

[Jpahemi1]

Thank you I appreciate the help

[Aros]

Boy was I off. It's actually 20".

[Aros]

I'll see if I can measure but it looks to be between 8-10".