Official FlightLine RC 2000mm B-24D/J Liberator Thread

[Scornette]

Does anyone know where I can get the olive green color for touch up

[Hugh Wiedman]

FMS 1700mm P-51 with Sound and Whistle;

[Hugh Wiedman]

Corsair:

[Hugh Wiedman]

Very nice! Is it possible to have the engine sounds stop when the electric motors stop?

Yes, unfortunately I did that video at the beginning and had not yet "programmed" the start and stop of the props with the sound. But to do that, you have to be somewhat "creative". It took me a while to figure it out and I had many conversations with Andrew (owner of Mr RC Sound) and one of his associates who lived in London. I came up with a method that they had not thought of, but seemed to work, at least for me. The main problem I found was that the sound started when you advanced the throttle (which was OK) and shut off when you dropped it to 0 (also OK) but if you did that while taxiing to the runway or even at times while you were flying-especially landing, the sound shut off and then recycled back on, defeating the overall purpose. So this is what I came up with so the sound comes on just as the prop spins, and only shuts off when you are done flying and taxiing and the props stop rotating and never at any other time.

In essence I'm using my throttle cut switch to enable the sound to come on and shut off when I want it to. To do this, you essentially have to "trick" the board in the following way (these following settings work on the B-24, but each plane and ESC are a bit different and require unique settings but the concept is the same and I have these boards in all my prop warbirds and a few other prop Bi-Planes):

1) Program the ESC as you do with all planes for throttle travel, ie, turn on TX and advance throttle to full position, then plug in RX (should remove props for this so a disaster can't occur), after getting single beeps, drop throttle to 0, then the ESC arms and you have the throttle calibrated.
2) Determine the point with throttle trim switch that the props just start to turn slowly, in the case of my B-24, that's at +52 in throttle trim.
3) Disconnect RX and reduce trim back to 0, then plug the RX back in so everything is calibrated correctly. Do not power up the Sound board yet.
4) Now drop the throttle trim to about -34. Now connect the sound system power.
5) Engage the throttle cut switch, and I happen to use Switch H for that and have the position at -110%. At this point, the servo position that you would see in the screen showing travel that the throttle position is virtually same when the throttle is on and -34 trim as it is with the throttle cut on.
6) Now with the throttle still cut, advance the throttle trim to that +52 position. Since the throttle cut switch is still on, the props don't move and the board thinks it starting point is still at the -110 when you plugged it in. The sound should also still be off.
7) Now you're ready to fire up the engines and begin taxiing. Release the throttle cut switch-turn the throttle on- and the props should just start spinning slowly and the sound system should begin it's start up sequence. The sound will stay on now, no matter what you do with the throttle stick. If you don't like the props spinning when you drop the throttle to 0, you can always reduce the trim down a few notches but that little amount of trim is not enough to shut the sound system off. Go and fly, bring it back to the pit, then turn the throttle cut switch and the sound and props stop at the same time.

As I said, each plane and ESC is a bit different and you may have to tweek the trim amounts and values of the throttle cut position to get it to work perfectly all the time. I found that the throttle cut position should be close, but not lower than the bottom trim position you plug your sound system in at (in this case -34). I also found that a trim range from low (point you plug the sound in) to high (point the props spin) is usually somewhere around 50 to 80 points, again depending on the ESC and plane.

One thing to absolutely remember, after flying and everything is shut off and disconnected, return the throttle trim to 0 for the next flight because you do not want to turn the TX on and power the RX with the throttle at that upper trim amount (+52 in my case) as it will throw the throttle calibration out of whack.

The following 3 videos show the sound system and props turning sequenced better in my Spitfire, Corsair (following posts) and P-51.

Any questions, please ask or even PM me and I'd be glad to help.

[TedP]

Very nice! Is it possible to have the engine sounds stop when the electric motors stop?

[Hugh Wiedman]

If your interested in what it sounds like:

[Hugh Wiedman]

Has anyone installed the MRRC Sound aspire system in their B-24? If so how many speakers did you use? How do you like it?

I put that sound system in both of my B-24's (Aspire Board) and 2 transducers each (speakers). I also got the multi-engine card and installed that in the Aspire. I love it. Also put heat sinks on each of the transducers. It's a little cramped back there but got everything in. Put the board behind the aft wing tube and secured it with double stinky velcro so I can pull it out if I need to (it's a tight fit getting it in but it worked) and then installed each transducer just aft of the square opening that you feed the ribbon cables through the fuselage in. Definitely worth it, especially with the multi-engine sound card.

[borntoolate]

Where do I get the olive drab touch-up paint?

Here is what I used. I had it matched at Home Depot.

Bob

[sgoring]

Has anyone installed the MRRC Sound aspire system in their B-24? If so how many speakers did you use? How do you like it?

[sgoring]

Where do I get the olive drab touch-up paint?

[Wild Man]

B-24 Liberator. One of my favorite planes to fly. being very, very proficient with making almost perfect landings is a must, and staying away from stalling and starting a propose will result in breaking props and other items. Flaring this plane during landing to touch down on the mains first then let it settle in on the nose gear takes a lot of practice with any plane. One plane I like to make wheelie landings with is my 2.1 Cessna 150 and good practice no matter what you fly it is fun to take the 150 and do main wheel touch and go's, With out letting the main gear touch the run way called a greased landing with no bounce at all. Knowing how to flair your plane while landing is very important with any plane. I have taught many with such things by wireless trainer setup to save many planes for novice pilots that I have worked with. You will love the B-24. Experience and flight time will help

[Hugh Wiedman]

hey guys I was wondering if I should get the b24. i have flown clubs and that before and I was looking at some more scale/bomber like for my 3th plane so if you can pls do

Gringotuerto and Gilatrout offer some good advice. What are your other 2 planes you've been flying? The B-24 is actually a very nice and easy prop warbird to fly. Take-offs are uneventful, assuming a relatively flat runway (even grass where I fly it) and not having a heavy crosswind. These 2 issues are probably the only things that may cause a problem and result in some outboard prop strikes, which of course during take-off will probably end in crash. It has plenty of power and cruises nice and relatively slow at 50% throttle, resulting in 8-10 minutes of flight time on 2 4000's. As Gilatrout pointed out, to really fly it scale you will need to do rudder turns with a bit of opposite aileron to keep it flat, which results in relatively large turns. On the other hand, it will turn quite quickly like any other plane with ailerons only and a bit of up elevator, but that's not how a B-24 actually flies. This aircraft is much more nimble than the real thing. It will do loops, cuban 8's, split S's and a whole host of other things a real B-24 pilot wouldn't be caught dead doing. I believe the only real issue you may have is in landing. Unlike other tail dragging prop warbirds that need to land level on the mains first with some throttle, you must land this B-24 with the nose slightly up touching on the mains only first at landing. If the nose wheel touches at the same time or even worse, before, it will start a bucking bronco that will not end well. On the other hand, take-off with a B-24 is much easier than with a tail dragger because those have a tendency to weather vane left from the prop wash and get airborne too quickly if you're not on top of it, causing a wing stall and potential crash. Don't have a T-28, but I image that aircraft takes off and lands similar to the B-24 so it would be a good 3rd plane. My 80 mm A-10 takes-off and lands with the same techniques you will need for the B-24 and for me, both are some of the easier aircraft to fly.

After all that is said, I would not necessarily recommend the B-24 now, but I'm the last to tell someone not to get an aircraft they really want. You're talking to someone that got a 90mm F-4 for his first EDF because I thought it was cool, so what do I know. I have no doubt you will be able to take off and fly it well, the only issue may be in landing it correctly (which seems to be the major issue with just about any aircraft). So on 2nd thought, get a T-28 and a B-24 at the same time. Practice on the T-28 while you're building out the B-24, then have some fun.

[Gringotuerto]

hey guys I was wondering if I should get the b24. i have flown clubs and that before and I was looking at some more scale/bomber like for my 3th plane so if you can pls do

Agree with Gilatrout. Also I would add, it depends on the condition of your field. The B-24 (or I suppose any 4-engine plane) is really susceptible to any kind of bumping or rocking causing a prop strike (or worse). I just saw one destroyed yesterday on takeoff because our field is a little out of maintenance presently, and he hit a bump just before liftoff.

[Gilatrout]

It is a fantastic plane, easy to fly, but I wouldn't necessarily reccomended it as your 3rd plane. You can't bank it like your usual plane and you need to be comfortable with coordinated turns with rudder. You also need to be smooth with your landings. If you bounce it, you will probably break one or both outboard props.

I can't say for certain because I don't know how skilled you are.

I would reccomended a T-28 as an excellent plane for just about anyone as a typical 3rd plane. Great platform for practicing landings and learning how warbirds act. Also good for learning tricycle gear.

If you are comfortable with T28s and want to move to mutli engine planes, the flightline tigercat is superb. One of my favorite models motion sells.


Back to the B24. If bombers are your thing, then yes get it. Buy some extra props (both rotation types). It is a great plane to customize, and fun to fly. It is a staple on bomber days at our field. If you aren't sure you are ready, then get it anyway, spend some time making it yours. In the meantime practice practice practice with warbirds. Work on coordinating nice flat turns with the rudder and it will be there when you are ready.

[b24 guy]

hey guys I was wondering if I should get the b24. i have flown clubs and that before and I was looking at some more scale/bomber like for my 3th plane so if you can pls do

[Prowler901]

Beautiful shots!

[F106DeltaDart]

Got in a few flights yesterday on the B-24 and my brother shot a few in flight photos

[Builda]

Sorry but i woulda hit him up for damages, or caused some. Idiot😡

[dmcpheron@gmail.com]

Gringotuerto, thank you for your input. I like the image files and will probably use them as well.

[Gringotuerto]

I would love to see some detailed pictures of others’ paint jobs on the 3D plastic parts kit for the B-24 Liberator. I’m about ready to begin painting my set as I am building my new Liberator. Hopefully others see “imitation as the sincerest form of flattery”. Thanks for your input.

Also...here are some files I printed and used. For the waist gunners, I printed these guys on paper, pasted them to very thin balsa, and then attached them to a stick. They stand in the window, and although they are only 2D it is really convincing effect. The fuselage pictures can be just glued to the appropriate places inside the fuse like a backdrop.

I forgot where I got these, I think from another modeler.