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Official Nexa OV-10 Bronco 1800mm ARF Discussion Thread

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  • sam51401
    replied
    Necessity spawns ingenuity so it just makes you think and look at a problem from another angle. You will have that addressed and be better than stock i bet.
    Stay on it Tim.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tim Anderson
    replied
    thanks sam.... this morning went to tighten up steering yoke and the steel grub screw yanked the threads from the aluminum part? of course the only way the part is available is to buy and entire landing gear set which is on backorder.. ah rc is so much fun...so close but so far...

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  • sam51401
    replied
    Here is my retract order that i got from Robart.
    Robart 553RSE 105 degree retract($119.95), needed controller,($99.95 or $69.95 depending on full program or simple) using the #668($83.45) 7/16" trailing forked strut with a 2.75" wheel
    Mains: 552RSE 95 degree mains and 669L/R struts including controller plus extensions to reach the controller:Whew.
    Ill get the main wheels tomorrow but i thing Dubro lightweight on those and i had to trim part of a bulkhead to allow for the larger main wheels.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tim Anderson
    replied
    Well all had gone swimmingly until……Could those of you who wound up using Robart gear on this model could you please list part # or a link ? I got this thing on the gear this weekend and not terribly happy, main gear wheels would not fit because of huge mold seams, had to spin turn them on a drill to round up. the front gear strut axel holes is drilled crooked making proper alignment difficult at best, (of course out of stock) so I will have to redrill and rework. and the mains have a lot looseness around the links that introduces a lot of play, kinda sloppy for a plane of this size? Also have a wave retract sticking in the down position,and have contacted motion rc….

    Leave a comment:


  • Tim Anderson
    replied
    Nice job on the gear doors guys! Something to ad to my to do list, thanks for posting. Mine is getting closer now still always to go…
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  • sam51401
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	318743 Great work on the mains, here is my nose but i havent done the mains yet but rather like to get it flying.

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  • Electricflyer
    replied
    Here’s my gear doors for the Bronco

    Leave a comment:


  • Tim Anderson
    replied
    Thanks Sam,
    still in early planning and gathering bit and pieces. I fly mostly 6s these days,so setting up with pair of tacon 46, counter rotating 13x7 3 blade MAS props.
    using the freewing a10 dual 100A esc set up, guided by a frsky s8r receiver ,hitec minis all around…going with the wave retracts.really pleased with kit quality, although like most kits the wheels and tires are pretty wheezy. The strut construction limits to a 3" wheel? Did you use stock struts or Robart?Have settled on a Matt finish hybrid scheme base on naval air test station version I have seen, discovered no one makes a pusher 3blade spinner? Got 2 regular and will recarve the slots. would love to see how you did the gear .

    Leave a comment:


  • sam51401
    replied
    Welcome Tim!!, Im starting mine back up myself so looking to finish it out in short order.
    I asked recently for hinging ideas on the flaps as with the CA hinges i felt it limited the throw some what and being only one servo per wing, the hinges were stiff and felt may strain the servo when holding in the deployed position.
    Well problem solved as i removed the flap sections and removed the CA hinges by using a dremel cut off wheel, CAUTION!!!! That was a most unpleasant operation in heating up the cured CA and cutting the slots again. MUST BE WELL VENTED AREA, a fan blowing away would have helped. The trailing edge is ply so it would be more work to use an exacto and risk splitting the wood or worse slipping and stabbing my self. Ask how i knew that...... Any way, I found some regular Dubro pinned hinges, medium i believe, and have now full throw to the mechanical limits and no strain to the servo due to stiff hinging.
    Full movement on here is roughly a little more than the 20 degree half flap setting on the real one so as already been mentioned, its all it needs.
    Just some of the things i have done beyond the stock kit.
    Robart electric with struts
    Nose landing light using a Mag Light reflector and bulb
    full nav lights
    Nose gear doors, mechanical actuation with strut
    Recovered to the 76' VMO-2 at Camp Pendleton
    Dee's exhaust nozzles, Awesome they are!
    Heli pilots for crew
    Now if i can add hard points to the sponsons to mount some Zuni or 2.75 pods. Would need some internal support to tie in beyond the supplied screws to hold the added weight.
    Looking forward to your "build out" Tim and feel free to ask away.
    Sam

    PS, I got my Bronco fix when the FL version came out and its in the VMO-2 Desert Storm scheme....

    Leave a comment:


  • Tim Anderson
    replied
    Ok guys .... time to wake this one up again! after waiting for months for this thing to get off of backorder, finally got mine. thanks for all the great tips posted here that will save me some trouble, snagged Dirty Dees 3d files and printed out this weekend, will hopefully post pics soon!

    Leave a comment:


  • didier n
    replied
    i don't feel the need for more flap drop, find it landing better with half flap.. but that's just me..

    Leave a comment:


  • wrangler1
    replied
    Not me. I'll do the Maiden of mine next Saturday, wish me luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • sam51401
    replied
    So this thread has lost all followers???? Has anyone considered rehinging the flaps and what ideas came to mind on what may be the best means to allow some more drop as to the stock installation ?

    Leave a comment:


  • sam51401
    replied
    I have fell behind in finishing out my Nexa OV10 but I'm close. I like to ask if anyone has modified the flaps for more throw. Mine are already mounted per stock but maybe i should try to rehinge and plan for more movement. Any suggestions or ideas?

    Leave a comment:


  • didier n
    replied
    Ah, ok, but why not leave the wing side loose, and guide it into the fuselage and make the connection by hand inside the fuselage?
    Just an idea..

    Didier

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  • Axelowski
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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    the gap between center fuselage and the main wings is the result of my emcotec power connection (PWC6).
    I did not dare to mill the center fuselage more
    Axel

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  • didier n
    replied
    Congratz on the maiden, but on your photo's the main wings are not completely pushed in against the center fuselage....
    What is wrong there?

    grtz,

    Didier

    Leave a comment:


  • Axelowski
    replied
    Hi all,

    on friday I have maidened my OV-10 and it went smoothly!

    Thanks for your help and information, especially your advice regarding the M-60s (Den and Didier).

    I did a full repaint, the German Airforce scheme was not my first choice.

    Thanks a lot,

    Axel


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  • WrightBrosRC
    replied
    Regarding BECs for this bird. It is very important that you calculate the total current (not voltage) of everything you connect to it, servos, lights, gear, EVERYTHING powered by the BEC. The total potential output current of your BEC (I use a battery) should be at least 10% more than the total current draw of everything you are sending power to from the BEC.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dana Rabun
    replied
    Make sure bec is putting out at least 6v

    Leave a comment:

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