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Official Nexa OV-10 Bronco 1800mm ARF Discussion Thread

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  • wrangler1
    replied
    Originally posted by MikeT View Post
    I installed the CC Caps after researching it and reaching out to castle for more information.


    Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_2545.JPG Views:	0 Size:	135.7 KB ID:	233419. .

    Mike
    Hello, can you tell me more on how did you find what capacitor you need to use and where you bought them?, please.

    Leave a comment:


  • sam51401
    replied
    Well i just got to thinking way to hard and came up with this.
    Monokote style hinges, wire torque rod for open. Now thinking on the closure rod that will catch the last bit of travel of the gear to close them.
    Attached Files

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  • sam51401
    replied
    This may just work out for gear doors
    The laminated nose door is 1/16 so by applying a 1/16 overlap on some monokote hinges, i can keep the door snug and flush to the side of the nose bay. For the closing and opening, KISS is in force here
    as a torque spring on each door will open them and a U shaped wire catch that will connect to the doors will close them as the gear leg is retracted. This may work equally well on the mains also but lets fly it first.

    Leave a comment:


  • MikeT
    replied
    Last I talked with Mike his contact info was.

    Michael Hicks bmarkrc@gmail.com

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • Jbarnes
    replied
    New guy here. Putting one of these birds together. I see posts regarding these pilots from Mike. How do I contact Mike for a set of these pilots. Thanks, Jerry

    Leave a comment:


  • sam51401
    replied
    Posting a question to the masses on a simple hinging method on the nose gear doors.
    1. piano hinge, Thickness of the door may not allow a flush install and possible interference
    2. small Dubro hinges, same issue with the piano hinge i believe, not allow a flush install
    3. Sonic Tronics offset hinges, high probability but placement may interfer with steering
    4. Monokote or tape hinge, simplest for a flush hinge in this case given the least amount of hinge work.
    Durability is only question but works for control surfices
    Still thinking up a mechanical means of actuation

    Leave a comment:


  • didier n
    replied
    Some more work done on the decals and painting... coming along nicely

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    Almost ready for clear coat, assembly and weathering....

    Attached Files

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  • sam51401
    replied
    Well, working from home and able to jump back and forth to the Bronco has me thinking way to much to get this thing flying. Anyway, i just could not pass on that big hole in the front with the nose gear so i molded some layered 1/64 ply last night. Im wanting to try a scale mechanical closure for the doors so no servo and sequencing will be needed.
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  • Alpha
    replied
    Both of your projects are shaping up really nicely! I'm partial to the white winged birds.

    Nice wiring job, too, caddguy6 Those multi-pin connectors are lifesavers!

    Leave a comment:


  • caddguy6
    replied
    Well being quarantined moved up my Bronco build and I'm quite happy about that. This project is really rewarding both from working on a model of such a great full scale aircraft and from working out all the internal equipment placements. It appears the only holdup for completion will be the Tru-Turn three bladed spinners. Until this virus slow down is over spinner orders are on hold. Today the flight controls were powered up for the first time, so cool. Still have plenty to do but am enjoying every minute of it. Click image for larger version

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    Attached Files

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  • didier n
    replied
    Decals and paint masks from Callie came in... combined with some home made water slides i'm back in buisness...

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    Didier

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  • MikeT
    replied
    I might pick one up just on price alone. I kinda like this scheme.

    Mike

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  • Rosytime
    replied
    So how many of us who have the ProFly version are going to order the new FliteLine OV 10? I'm on the fence although I like the way the wings come apart for transport. Too bad the ProFly doesn't do this. I had to make a special cradle to hang it in my trailer since I leave the wings on the fuselage.

    Leave a comment:


  • sam51401
    replied
    You nailed it Didier. Mine are waiting

    Leave a comment:


  • Twowingtj
    replied
    didier n Well done with the exhaust. Paint is quite realistic.

    Leave a comment:


  • didier n
    replied
    I had the nice looking 3D printed exhaust still lying around unpainted, so they were next... upon looking at photo's from the full size i noticed a rather large weld seam over the entire exhaust... hmm.. lets see if we can make that as well..
    The prints were primed and sanded, and i gave it a try with simple white glue.... result was exactly what i wanted...

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    After a light primer coat...

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    So out came the airbrush to finish it all up...

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    Very pleased with the result..


    Didier

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  • Gilatrout
    replied
    OV 10s are back!
    The aircraft, which haven't seen widespread U.S. military use in any capacity in decades, are getting a new lease on life.

    Leave a comment:


  • didier n
    replied
    Due to the corona virus thing i've been running out of supplies to continue the build.... so i made some panellines on the wings using a simple pencil, after a final coat of varnish it will be sealed...

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    Stay safe everyone !

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  • sam51401
    replied
    The list will come but im having to back track on wiring issues with the Turnigy/GT Power light controller. Seems that it doesnt like to have a common shared ground on several of the lights. I thought i could keep the wiring to three wires and have the ground common but im having to revert to an additional ground wire and using Deans 4 pin micro connectors.
    As to listing
    1. GT Power/Turnigy light set, the one with the controller in yellow shrink
    2. 5mm light set from Spudgun.com, found on Ebay and his website
    3. 5mm red Flat top LED's from Amazon, supplier is Lighthouseleds.com for the upper and lower beacons along with more accessories
    4. FW L39 plastic set with the light lens
    5. Spudgun.com has a simple rc switch and will use two of those, one for the lights, other for the landing light
    6. I'll post a pic but the landing light lens is from a pack of "rolling eyes", 2.5" dia found at Hobby Lobby
    7. The landing light is a 2 cell led flashlight from Lowes. Ill find the package again and pic it.
    8. Light lens for the beacons from Parkflyerplastics.com

    I decided to use the controller for the beacon cycle as it more closely resembles a rotating beacon instead of the newer strobe. The lights from spudgun are brighter than the set lights and have a slighlty wider FOV. The lights come pre-wired with resistirs for 5v operation but using the controller, they can be removed as they are on the board.
    More to come as i finalize the wiring and then a vid of operation.
    Sam

    Leave a comment:


  • sam51401
    replied
    Ill throw together a shopping list and links tonight and post it a little later. I have a source of 5mm LED's that are bright and wide angle of view that can be found on Amazon and some other items from spudgun.com being prewired with resistors. Im taking the resistors off due to the simple contoller i choose that has proper resistors on the board. Yes MRC carries it.
    Oh! L39 lens/plastic set also. The tanks teardrop lens for the wing tips.

    Leave a comment:

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