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Official Nexa OV-10 Bronco 1800mm ARF Discussion Thread

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  • Originally posted by Boots Whirlygig View Post
    This is a beautifully constructed plane, I can not find a flaw in mine. The covering is strong and with light scotchbrite or steel wool will accept most paints.
    Hey Alpha, how difficult would it be to re-jig the twin booms and offer an electric version, eliminating the double firewall and plastic standoffs, which to me is added weight and wasted space? IC engine folks can use a radial mount backplate and benefit as well, as the space would be for the fuel tank, lines, and throttle servos.
    The pilot looks great you show, what does it weigh?

    Id like the price better IF it included installed servos, and L/G struts that allowed a 100mm wheel/tire be used!:P
    This is a highly detailed 10" Tall Modern Jet Pilot Figure. Designed perfectly as an RC Pilot Figure. This pilot will fit perfectly in your 1/7th and 1/8th Scale Jets and planes. Each figure has a cotton body with a wire frame, which allows them to be put into any position. Pilot only weighs 4 ounces.
    At only 10" tall, These pilots are perfect for your 1/7 ~ 1/8 Scale Jets and larger Foamies.

    Warbirdpilots provides RC Pilot Figures for 1/6, 1/5, and 1/4 scale RC Aircraft.


    Hope that helps a bit. ;) Jerry

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    • I'm thinking of 3d printing a suitable helmet to fit one of these figures. Warbirdpilots.com offer a 12" copter pilot but haven't inquired as to if a 10" is offered. I'm a rank beginner to 3d printing and cad but I'm wanting to work on printed exhaust to start with. Can someone give me a direction on simple design YouTube for cad.

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      • Originally posted by Alpha View Post
        Quick clarification, the ProFly OV-10 isn't a "rebrand" of the Pichler OV-10, which to some might imply Pichler produces the airplane. Both OV-10s are produced by the factory Black Horse. I worked with Black Horse years ago to get this OV-10 to our standards and some tweaks were made along the way in addition to a lengthy licensing process. In the meantime Pichler began selling their colorway in Europe. Our version is not available in Europe but rather exclusively through Motion RC's USA warehouse under the ProFly brand, which as Stuart mentioned is our in-house balsa brand line that we'll be expanding in due time.


        Thanx for the clarification Alpha about Black Horse making the airframe for both Pichler and now ProFly.
        That explains why the ProFly manual looks like a reorganized and more detailed version of the Pichler manual.
        Sorry about making an erroneous assumption about the ProFly being a rebrand of the Pichler based on the manuals.:Not-Talking: ;)
        Warbird Charlie
        HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

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        • I received my Ov-10 yesterday. It was very well packed and arrived in great condition. As I study the plane and manual, I am stumped about battery connections. I have read that it's not good idea to add extensions to the battery to ESC leads, but with the ESC's in the booms and the batteries in the fuselage, I don't see any way to avoid battery lead extensions. Can anyone clarify how to get around this problem? Or, are battery lead extensions not a problem?

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          • The Freewing ESC Opto from the A-10 have diodes (Elkos) so there is no problem.

            Regards
            Markus





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            • I've started the OV-10 build. All the servos are mounted and the motors are mounted. I decided to see what type of power I will get with my set-up. I'm using E-Flite power 32s, a 4s lipo, 100 amp ESCs from the Freewing A-10, and a 12x8 thin prop. I got 680 watts with a 45 amp draw at full power per motor. So a total of 1360 watts at full power for the plane. I haven't checked this combo on 5s yet but I'm sure the watts will go up. I also didn't realize the amount of servo extensions needed so I got a kit to make my own and will be doing that to try and make a neat installation of the wires. Nothing worse than having a bundle of extra wire in the fuselage that just gets in the way when using premade servo extensions.

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              • I was thinking Power 46's with Talon 60's on 4S. maybe I need to revisit that.

                Mike
                \"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"

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                • An update on my power 32 set-up. Still using the 12x8 thin prop and now using a 5s set-up, I got 1200 watts at 69 amps. Way more than enough to fly this plane. Now I have somewhat of an idea as to which three blade prop to use. I think a 10 something will work. Now to see if I can get counter rotating.

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                  • Originally posted by Kangi1954 View Post
                    I received my Ov-10 yesterday. It was very well packed and arrived in great condition. As I study the plane and manual, I am stumped about battery connections. I have read that it's not good idea to add extensions to the battery to ESC leads, but with the ESC's in the booms and the batteries in the fuselage, I don't see any way to avoid battery lead extensions. Can anyone clarify how to get around this problem? Or, are battery lead extensions not a problem?
                    If I remember correctly, you can extend the leads from the battery to the ESC but you don't want to extend the leads coming directly out of the ESC to the battery. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

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                    • Alright, here's the latest data with my set-up. E-flite power 32- 10x7 3 blade MAS- 525 watts, 35 amps on 4s. 970 watts, 50 amps on 5s. 11x7 3 blade MAS- 580 watts, 40 amps on 4s, 1000 watts, 60 amps on 5s. Hopes this helps some of you in choosing the power plant for the OV-10 and wanting to use a 3 bladed prop. I don't have any 4 bladed to try so I would be curious to see what others are using or considering to use.

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                      • Originally posted by NoDirt! View Post

                        If I remember correctly, you can extend the leads from the battery to the ESC but you don't want to extend the leads coming directly out of the ESC to the battery. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
                        LOL Same difference :Smug:Any additional length of wire from the battery to ESC(doesn't make a difference where it originated from) causes the magic Tron gods to start moving their powers around whereas we humans have found the need for larger banks of capacitors be added to the ESC input to counter the magic effects. The safest method is to keep the ESC relatively (a loose term) close to supply voltage (battery) and extend the 3 motor leads as required. ;)

                        Someone mentioned earlier about using the FW A-10 ESC's with the longer power leads. Good approach because it is designed with the extra caps :Cool:
                        Warbird Charlie
                        HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

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                        • Originally posted by Rosytime View Post
                          Alright, here's the latest data with my set-up. E-flite power 32- 10x7 3 blade MAS- 525 watts, 35 amps on 4s. 970 watts, 50 amps on 5s. 11x7 3 blade MAS- 580 watts, 40 amps on 4s, 1000 watts, 60 amps on 5s. Hopes this helps some of you in choosing the power plant for the OV-10 and wanting to use a 3 bladed prop. I don't have any 4 bladed to try so I would be curious to see what others are using or considering to use.
                          I don't know what the numbers are, but I use a Power 32 in my E-flight Advance on 4S and found that the 12X8 3 blade MAS gave the best speed, power and acceleration.

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                          • Originally posted by Kangi1954 View Post

                            I don't know what the numbers are, but I use a Power 32 in my E-flight Advance on 4S and found that the 12X8 3 blade MAS gave the best speed, power and acceleration.
                            That sounds about right. I'm using the E-flite Power 32 in a Sig T-Clips on 4S with a 13x6.5 APC prop. It flys like a pylon racer and has unlimited vertical. The general rule of thumb when going from 2 to a 3 blade is down 1 on diameter and up on pitch. So your 12x8 3 blade would be a good match.

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                            • The reason for the 12x6 three bladed test is that I had one in the spare parts bin. No doubt a 12x8 would be better but the amps would go up and with the 12x6s there is still plenty of watts. Either way I'll have three sets of props to try. All of these combos have ccw and counter ccw props.

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                              • So i just got my question answered by Master Airscrew on cutting down a 16x10 to a 15x??. They don't recommend it nor will they trim and balance a set.
                                Ok, so for testing im stuck with 15x7 and 16x10 on my EMax 4030/10 385kv on 6s. My question was IF i cut a 16x10 to 15", what would that make my pitch be so i could plug in to E-Calc.
                                For 3 blade props, seems the upper end of a 50 to 60 size motor is somewhat limited. Looks like more selections for the lower sizes in the 10-13" dia. Any other ideas or suggestions on prop trimming?
                                :Thinking::Confused:
                                Just FYI, a list of 3 blade CW/CCW sets available from MA
                                10x5
                                10x7
                                11x7
                                12x6
                                12x8
                                13x6
                                13x8
                                13x12
                                14x7
                                15x7
                                16x10

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                                • I’ve used cut down props and haven’t suffered any ill effects but haven’t checked them on a meter. I would go with the 15x7 for scale like flying. Even at 15# AUW you’ll be amazed how the Bronco responds to the “low gear” provided by the 15x7, much more resembles the full scale turbine running at a constant speed, the throttle increasing or decreasing the propellors pitch. Your take offs and landings are more controlled with the throttle with the shallower pitch. I do not think the OV-10 airframe is a good match to high pitch props, which are better suited to high speed racing a/c.

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                                  • Thanks Boots for the vote of confidence. I'll order a set of 15x7's but there is one little problem in that NO ONE, that i have been shopping and looking for have, the CCW 15x7. 16x10 in both can be had but I'll have to go straight to MA to order the 15" set.
                                    Took the fuse to our club meeting and it got lots of attention, even with stiff competition from a scratch built, self made fiberglass fuse, with molds, of a Navion. There is one in Louisville that he his modeling from and its decked out custom.

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                                    • Whenever I need a MAS prop I always buy directly from them versus dorkin around with a retail web/street vendor who's prices don't really save ya anything. Factory direct pricing from MAS is surprisingly easy on the pocket.;)
                                      Warbird Charlie
                                      HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

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                                      • Request to MA in process for both 15x7 and16x10 sets. Pilots also in works but with another source. Will post more details when I hear back.:Cool:

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                                        • Pilot teaser, one with visor down, one up.
                                          Attached Files

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