Official Nexa OV-10 Bronco 1800mm ARF Discussion Thread

[Kangi1954]

A Bronco video on Youtube.

Yeah, this video is why I chose this livery for mine.

[wrangler1]

A Bronco video on Youtube.

[Joehockey]

So , I am still on the fence because I am trying to determine if I can scale out the cockpit based on where the lipos will go. I know the comments have been “ 60ties are overkill” , so I am looking at 2 x 46 size eflight type motors . With an all up weight of 15 or so lbs that 7.5 lbs per motor. .
I would have to plan the lipo positions and determine if I can modified the interior. I would love to use to full body light weight pilots, full interior and functional doors similar to my A26. I simply think the Q10 has a great open canvas waiting for details !
I am trying to really determine 6s or 2 -4s . 5 cell is out of the question for me because I simply have no need to 5 cell applications in any of my models.
I am also looking at other options on the retracts such as the A10 . I think the FMS A10 is heavier then the Flight Line Verizon ( or vice versa ) . I punched some for a Royal Kit that i own and they are quote robust and you can play with the strut position to fit your retraction position.

[didier n]

Does anyone have a link, source for detail hardware like door handles, latches, hinges, etc?

There is a build tread on this model on the german Rc network site, here's the link : http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showt...k-Horse/page17

From page 17 onwards there are several detail photo's

Hope this helps..


Didier

[sam51401]

Hey bbolz, There is a YT video that is done on the two Broncos at the Ft Worth Aviation Museum that you can get some good ref from. You might also check any plastic build pics of the 1/32 kit from Kitty Hawk of which i bought the kit for just this reason.
Walk around, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWi7xYE2JWg
Lots of model pics using this search term, "kitty hawk ov-10a build"
Enjoy
Found the link to the build thread of the Uravitch 81" version which has some detailed photos scattered about in it. I found hinge detail for the rear tail cone, hint hint!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/twin-multi-engine-rc-aircraft/566432-ov-10-bronco-81-a-21-print.html

[bbolz]

Does anyone have a link, source for detail hardware like door handles, latches, hinges, etc?

[MikeT]

My graphics should be here any day. I'm about ready for final assembly.

Mike

[TBolt]

good to hear they fit. I ordered the same graphics, just had her change the Bureau number.

[sam51401]

I ordered the VMO 2 graphics and applied the tail and boom markings with all so far well proportioned. I'm working on the top of wing and will finish with the cockpit so should be ok. If anyone wants, I have the reprinted manual that gives nomenclature size and placement for the Marine version.

[Alpha]

Callie's great with revisions and she has always responded promptly to my requests. I've found that providing her with actual measurements, such the diameter of a roundel, or the width of a letter, greatly enhances her ability to nail the proportions on the first try. She's designing on a 2D space for a decal that will conform to a 3D object, and a few degrees of curvature can significantly impact a decal. With enough references to dimension and position, especially with a flexible measuring tape (used for clothing) instead of an inflexible ruler, Callie's job is made much simpler.

[Rosytime]

I had the same problem with some of the sizing from Callie. I sent her a photo of the decal set and put a ruler next to the one's that were too big. She sent me back the corrected sizes at no charge. If you start looking at photos from the full scale Bronco you will see that the size of the livery is all over the place depending on what service and date it was flying at the time. My Marine decal on the booms is a little too big but looks fine too me, I'm not a scale nit picker. And yes the Danger propeller decal was way too big. Like I said, Callie took care of me with no problem.
On to my next question, if any of you are not using the front strut that comes with the kit, i would like to buy it from you. I'm using the front strut with an E-Flite retract with a 5mm pin. I did have to drill out the trunion for the pin. I have an X-wave retract and would like to try it with the pin that comes on it, as per the video, but have lost that pin. I really don't want to purchase a complete gear set plus they are out of stock. Please pm me if you're interested.

[Kangi1954]

Mine was drilled to shallow to use that setscrew.

Mike

Yeah mine as well. I went to drill it deeper and the bit broke loose a thin, very hard piece of metal in the bottom of the hole. That allowed just enough clearance for the groove and set screw to align. I'm obviously using the spring as well, so we'll see. Maiden coming soon.

[MikeT]

The upper setscrew in the retract is screwed into the groove in the strut. This was the answer when I asked MRC about this exact issue. I did it and it seems to work fine.

Mine was drilled to shallow to use that setscrew.

Mike

[MikeT]

I ordered the set with the shark mouth and wasn’t happy with any of the sizing. Lettering too big, star and stripe emblems too small. Shark mouth too big. Propeller warning way too long. Really was not happy. Callie replaced lettering and numbers free of charge. Decided not to use the shark mouth for now. Everything else I used from the kit.

I just ordered the same set. Told her to scale it down to 6.75. I'll see what's what when i get them and send her feedback on what's good and what's not. Thanks for the input.

Mike

[Kangi1954]

I’m talking with Callie on the sizing issues what do you all think ?

Mike

I ordered the set with the shark mouth and wasn’t happy with any of the sizing. Lettering too big, star and stripe emblems too small. Shark mouth too big. Propeller warning way too long. Really was not happy. Callie replaced lettering and numbers free of charge. Decided not to use the shark mouth for now. Everything else I used from the kit.

[Kangi1954]

I too say that 60s are overkill. Mine is set up for 5s and today I flew it with the 5000 mah lipos on board. After going from the original 4s set up, I was able to take out 4 oz of weight in the nose due to the heavier batteries. With my E-Flite 32s I have plenty of power and most of the flight is just above half throttle. 46s would be the biggest I would say if you want some more power. For those of you using the X-Wave retracts, how are you making the nose wheel steering with those retracts. I got one to see how they are and I see that you will have to drill out the trunnion block and find a pin to go in there from another nose wheel retract. I asked Motion if they are going to make a steerable retract and was told no. I'm currently using an E-Flite nose wheel retract for a 60-90 size and it works well although the wheel doesn't go all the way up in the wheel well. I can live with that since I'm not a super scale guy. Overall I love the way it flies.

The upper setscrew in the retract is screwed into the groove in the strut. This was the answer when I asked MRC about this exact issue. I did it and it seems to work fine.

[MikeT]

I’m talking with Callie on the sizing issues what do you all think ?

Mike

[Rosytime]

Wish that had been done when it first came out. Would have answered a lot of questions that we had being the first buyers. Luckily I have been in this hobby long enough to figure out the different ways to complete a model build. The video about the front gear set-up using the X-Wave retracts now makes sense although I have never seen it done that particular way. I wondered what that spring was for on the strut and now I know. I might even change over to that system although the E-flite retract works fine. I still think the 180 degree turn on the steering wire needs to be addressed since it will cut into the plastic tube eventually.

[James]

I had no clue there was a build video.

Mike

Yeah Mike, early last week we released an entire playlist of videos of building the OV-10 with the parts we recommend on the product page

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLp2Geuhij-9Qr34pDlYiGJLYhtUsZ_0Pe

[Alpha]

Has anyone thought of a suitable nose landing light yet? Im trying some sets i have on hand but also thinking of a home made setup using led flashlight bulbs so just a thought. Also checking on current lighting systems without spending over $75 but wanting the brightest light i can find for the landing light.

Freewing's 20mm LED lens/housing used in most of our nose strut mounted landing lights is too big for the nose of the Bronco, and typical 5mm LEDs are too small. 10mm seems about right, but it's not a standard size for LEDs. You may need to experiment with using one of Freewing's 1W LEDs that are commonly used as wing mounted landing lights, for example on our L-39 and Corsair. If its brightness is acceptable to you, install it slightly aft of the nose itself behind a clear sheet you'd have to fabricate to match the contour of the Bronco's nose.

To fabricate the clear lens, if it were me, I'd drape a thin microfiber cloth over the nose, then heat a piece of clear plastic sheet briefly (Plastic soda bottles are ideal for this type of DIY fabricating). Once the sheet is malleable, I'd push it against the nose to contour the sheet to match the nose's shape. In practice, the entire process should take 5-10 seconds from start to finish, including one or two seconds to heat the plastic just enough so it becomes soft. The sheet will cool and harden again in seconds, and while you're still holding the sheet up against the nose, sketch the circle for the lens itself with a Sharpie, and mark the vertical and horizontal datum lines for the fuselage. This will help you realign your new lens after you've cut it out from the plastic. Use it as a stencil to transfer the shape onto the nose, then drill the nose and mount your LED behind it.

Note, the ProFly Bronco's nose is shaped from a layered balsa block that is hollow but with thick walls. If memory serves, it's about half an inch thick, so prepare to drill more deeply than you would on other areas such as the fuselage or wing.