Originally posted by Alpha.MotionRC
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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread
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I hate that motorcycle they make me ride. I'm here to tell you, there ain't nothing in the world I hate more than that elephant under my ass.
-Officer John Wintergreen-
ElectraGlide in Blue, 1973
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Originally posted by Alpha.MotionRC View Post
I regularly swap between 5000, 5200, 5800, and 6000, always pushed as far back in the bay as they'll go, and I don't see any difference in pitch sensitivity when I'm flying around. I don't even re-trim between any of those batteries.rc flyin addict
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FLTRI, The bottom of my elevator's trailing edge is flush with the top surface of the horizontal stab. It's a very small amount. I usually stick my fingers at the aft wall of the wiring channel under the wing, with the model upright on its wheels, and finger check CG around there. Then again, after hundreds of flights, I don't check CG every flight anymore. Just plug in the battery and fly.
One thing I can foresee is having a wire or two stuck between the boom and center wing section, which would prevent all four screws through the turbochargers from fully seating the boom flush to the center wing section. In flight that may result in more or less elevator trim. But as long as everything is flush, you shouldn't need much trim. It was mostly a factor of not being able to push the batteries further back due to the load distribution apron of the aluminum box spar than it was of incidence.
Frankenjet, if you don't want to add lead or guess, I recommend the sets we recommend on the website. No weight needed for either the Admiral 4s 2500 setup or Admiral 4s 3000 setup. I'm using Glacier 4s 5800 and Revo 4s 5200 as well. No lead needed.Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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Finished adding the FreeWing P51 struts, it was a job.
The nose gear is a little stiff so I will cut a couple coils off the spring inside the strut, the main will need the spring stretched as they are about a quarter of the way compressed from the weight of the plane.
Here's a short video of the gear deploying and steering.
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Tired Iron wins the award for Most Realistic Struts. Well done.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by Alpha.MotionRC View PostFrankenjet, if you don't want to add lead or guess, I recommend the sets we recommend on the website. No weight needed for either the Admiral 4s 2500 setup or Admiral 4s 3000 setup. I'm using Glacier 4s 5800 and Revo 4s 5200 as well. No lead needed.
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by Alpha.MotionRC View PostFor those of you having trouble with short flap control rods, I have a question for you: When in the "Flaps Up" position, are your flap servo arms 90 degrees to the wing, like an aileron/rudder/elevator arm would be? My flap servos arms in the "Flaps Up" position are facing aft ~45 degrees. I set this up by centering the servo electronically, then positioning the servo arm facing rearward and screwing it in at that position. The flap servo arm facing aft shortens the required length of the control rod. I haven't had any issues with any of my four P-38s in this regard. When my flaps are down, the flap servo arms are almost 90 degrees to the wing.
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Originally posted by Alpha.MotionRC View PostFLTRI, The bottom of my elevator's trailing edge is flush with the top surface of the horizontal stab. It's a very small amount. I usually stick my fingers at the aft wall of the wiring channel under the wing, with the model upright on its wheels, and finger check CG around there. Then again, after hundreds of flights, I don't check CG every flight anymore. Just plug in the battery and fly.
One thing I can foresee is having a wire or two stuck between the boom and center wing section, which would prevent all four screws through the turbochargers from fully seating the boom flush to the center wing section. In flight that may result in more or less elevator trim. But as long as everything is flush, you shouldn't need much trim. It was mostly a factor of not being able to push the batteries further back due to the load distribution apron of the aluminum box spar than it was of incidence.
Frankenjet, if you don't want to add lead or guess, I recommend the sets we recommend on the website. No weight needed for either the Admiral 4s 2500 setup or Admiral 4s 3000 setup. I'm using Glacier 4s 5800 and Revo 4s 5200 as well. No lead needed.
I lost a plane once to bad CG, completely destroyed it. I'm just OCD about it now, and don't want to damage my new pride and joy...I hate that motorcycle they make me ride. I'm here to tell you, there ain't nothing in the world I hate more than that elephant under my ass.
-Officer John Wintergreen-
ElectraGlide in Blue, 1973
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Originally posted by TiredIronGRB View PostFinished adding the FreeWing P51 struts, it was a job.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n36506[/ATTACH]
The nose gear is a little stiff so I will cut a couple coils off the spring inside the strut, the main will need the spring stretched as they are about a quarter of the way compressed from the weight of the plane.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n36507[/ATTACH]
Here's a short video of the gear deploying and steering.
Thanks,
Andy
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Originally posted by TiredIronGRB View PostFinished adding the FreeWing P51 struts, it was a job.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n36506[/ATTACH]
The nose gear is a little stiff so I will cut a couple coils off the spring inside the strut, the main will need the spring stretched as they are about a quarter of the way compressed from the weight of the plane.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n36507[/ATTACH]
Here's a short video of the gear deploying and steering.
Phill
The home hangar seems to breed!!
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Originally posted by FLTRI View Post
Okay, I hate to keep pestering you about this, but do you the mean the back of the square hole where the wires exit the outside of the boom, where the outer wings screw on? Or, the rear edge of the main wiring channel between the center pod, and both booms? Copy on the elevator setting, that's where mine is. No problems with wires between the booms and center wing, I was very careful when I installed them.
I lost a plane once to bad CG, completely destroyed it. I'm just OCD about it now, and don't want to damage my new pride and joy...
Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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Have not started to work on mine yet. Still working out the kinks on my P40B. I am hoping this model does not have such issues. The Model Aviation article mentioned that two of the screws for the center nacelle were too short. I hope not for me. If so, I hope I can find some that will do. I hate this issue.
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Originally posted by Pheonix View PostWhere can I find this little box? I looked under spare parts and it is not there.
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Originally posted by Alpha.MotionRC View Post
I'll snap a picture for you in the morning, FLTRI. Which batteries are you using? Admirals?I hate that motorcycle they make me ride. I'm here to tell you, there ain't nothing in the world I hate more than that elephant under my ass.
-Officer John Wintergreen-
ElectraGlide in Blue, 1973
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@ any of the Motion guys
Have any of you tried 3600's or higher in the P-38? I've measured the battery area and 2 Admiral 3600's should fit. Really hoping you guys can tell if the P-38 can handle the extra weight. 760g compared to 620g for the 3000's. Would be appreciative of your thoughts on this and if you can confirm the 3600's will fit. I need some spare props so may grab those lipos while I am at it.
Thanks
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Originally posted by Arycon View Post@ any of the Motion guys
Have any of you tried 3600's or higher in the P-38? I've measured the battery area and 2 Admiral 3600's should fit. Really hoping you guys can tell if the P-38 can handle the extra weight. 760g compared to 620g for the 3000's. Would be appreciative of your thoughts on this and if you can confirm the 3600's will fit. I need some spare props so may grab those lipos while I am at it.
Thanks
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