Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[Lon]

Update: I just finished 5 flights with the new struts with the additional short spring installed. Works great. I had one landing with a small skip from touching down too soon. The other landings a good no skip/bounce touchdowns.

Want to share some findings with the CNC struts from Castle. The extra springs that come with the struts. They are much shorter(see photo), and if you replace the springs that come installed. A MUCH softer shock spring action. Too soft! The struts will compress alot just from the weight of the plane. BUT!!!! If you add those extra shorter springs to the strut(in addition to factory installed spring) Now your talking maybe a just right compression resistance. The weight of the plane does not compress the action of the strut at all. It's very easy to add the spring. Just don't let that little "C" clip flip away when removing it :) Attached are pictures comparing the springs, and which C-clip and grub screw you have to remove to do this.

Weather forecast looks good for testing these out soon!

[BadBob]

Want to share some findings with the CNC struts from Castle. The extra springs that come with the struts. They are much shorter(see photo), and if you replace the springs that come installed. A MUCH softer shock spring action. Too soft! The struts will compress alot just from the weight of the plane. BUT!!!! If you add those extra shorter springs to the strut(in addition to factory installed spring) Now your talking maybe a just right compression resistance. The weight of the plane does not compress the action of the strut at all. It's very easy to add the spring. Just don't let that little "C" clip flip away when removing it :) Attached are pictures comparing the springs, and which C-clip and grub screw you have to remove to do this.

Weather forecast looks good for testing these out soon!

I see on the Motion web site that their new struts version show the "L" shaped L/G mains and nose gear wire that came with the Castle version already installed. https://www.motionrc.com/products/fl...nt=25628023878. I haven't removed my pre-installed ones yet to make a comparison, but I'm wondering if I need to replace the Castle version strut wire with the original or are they the same size? Find out when I "go in."

[Lon]

I see on the Motion web site that their new struts version show the "L" shaped L/G mains and nose gear wire that came with the Castle version already installed. https://www.motionrc.com/products/fl...nt=25628023878. I haven't removed my pre-installed ones yet to make a comparison, but I'm wondering if I need to replace the Castle version strut wire with the original or are they the same size? Find out when I "go in."

Castle version wire same, fits well.

[BadBob]

Something I just now noticed. When extending the nose gear, it works fine. But when retracting, there seems to be a glitch or catch somewhere as tho the tire is catching on the door as it retracts but I can't see any contact there. Wonder if this the servo. It's like the servo has a "hesitant glitch" when retracting. I'm using my Servo-Ciser from Electro Dynamics.

[BadBob]

I also see that the nose strut from Castle has 2 set screw flat points where the stock has only 1 that I can get to. The other set screw position on the Castle is on the opposite side of the stock, where the stock doesn't appear to have an access to a set screw, just an indention in the plastic. See 1st pic, indention is at the bottom of the strut. 2nd pic (Castle strut) shows the second set screw on the opposite side of the indention on the stock gear. If I see things correctly, the whole landing gear and servo assembly must come out to remove the stock L/G wire and insert the Castle L/G wire to match up with the 2 set screws? What a pain!

[downwindleg]

Hey Lon and BadBob, Great information on the Castle struts. Mine are ordered and on the way. I am doing a bit of pioneering myself on the retracts. I finally found a nose retract unit that retracts 105 degrees instead of 90 degrees with the same basic measurements as the stock unit. Hopefully, this unit will solve the problem of not having any forward rake on the nose strut like the real thing. The washer spacers don't really get the job done and still be able to have the gear door close completely. The unit is the E-flite 25-46 105 degree nose retract. It's not cheap, but I'm going to try it out-should be arriving in the next few days. Wish me luck, Brad

[Aros]

Good luck Brad and thanks to everyone sharing their Castle Strut experiences...I was about to pull the trigger on these but I think I will wait until I finish reading the intel...

http://www.x-flight.com.hk/index.php?cat=&p=6&id=291#

[Delizar]

I have finally started assembly on my allied Green. I noticed something with the elevator. Got to the point where I am hooking up the control rods. The elevator binds at about straight back. Then sort of pops past it and move freely. I think the hinge pins may not be lined up straight. At first I thought it was just stiff. After a minute or so of moving it up and down with my finger it is still binding in the same spot.

Any thoughts on how to correct this short of cutting out the pins? Or should I be calling MotionRC? This is my first plane from them so I'm a bit unsure if this qualifies as a warranty replacement.

[downwindleg]

Sadly, Lady Luck was not smiling at me today. The e-flite nose retract unit I ordered would not work. Everything was good except for one tiny little detail. The trunion side of this unit is on the opposite side, relative to the mounting tabs, as the stock unit. This was an insurmountable engineering problem so I returned it and am now back on the hunt for the great white nose gear,L.O.L If anybody else finds one that will work, I'm all ears, Brad

[Lon]

Update: I just finished 5 flights with the new struts with the additional short spring installed. Works great. I had one landing with a small skip from touching down too soon. The other landings a good no skip/bounce touchdowns.

Want to share some findings with the CNC struts from Castle. The extra springs that come with the struts. They are much shorter(see photo), and if you replace the springs that come installed. A MUCH softer shock spring action. Too soft! The struts will compress alot just from the weight of the plane. BUT!!!! If you add those extra shorter springs to the strut(in addition to factory installed spring) Now your talking maybe a just right compression resistance. The weight of the plane does not compress the action of the strut at all. It's very easy to add the spring. Just don't let that little "C" clip flip away when removing it :) Attached are pictures comparing the springs, and which C-clip and grub screw you have to remove to do this.

Weather forecast looks good for testing these out soon!

UPDATE !I just finished 5 flights with the new struts with the additional short spring installed. Works great. I had one landing with a small skip from touching down too soon. The other landings a good no skip/bounce touchdowns.

[T-CAT]

Very cool! Congrats!

[BadBob]

Thanks for the spring info!

I'm looking around for a Mini Snap Ring removal Plier to make it easier (???) to remove and reinstall the snap rings. I see some on the Walmart web site, but not enough info as to if they are the correct size and configuration. I bought a set at ACE, but the tips are to big for the job. Any suggestions?

Also, I still have to take a closer look at the stock nose assembly (can't find it on Motions web site anymore to get a closer look, only the new set), but appears that the entire mount assembly will have to be taken out to get the nose gear out because of the snap ring at the top of the gear wire. My initial thoughts were that if I removed the set screw from the strut, the gear strut would just slide out from the steering arm assembly leaving the stock gear wire with the c-clip, still installed to the steering arm, and then realign the new gear strut to the flat spot on the already installed gear wire. Mmmmmm!! Hope I haven't confused myself here. LOL! Thoughts???

[BadBob]

UPDATE: I was just looking at the Castle web site and noticed that there is a set screw on the bottom of each gear to remove the axle. Looks like the wheel collars will go on the inside of the wheel on the new one as there doesn't appear to be a need for one on the out side.

Also, Don't know if this has been posted before, but the Castle nose gear appears to be 1/8"-3/16" longer than the stock nose gear as it mounts flush to the steering arm. Not much room left in the wheel well there for the tire.

[Lon]

Thanks for the spring info!

I'm looking around for a Mini Snap Ring removal Plier to make it easier (???) to remove and reinstall the snap rings. I see some on the Walmart web site, but not enough info as to if they are the correct size and configuration. I bought a set at ACE, but the tips are to big for the job. Any suggestions?

Also, I still have to take a closer look at the stock nose assembly (can't find it on Motions web site anymore to get a closer look, only the new set), but appears that the entire mount assembly will have to be taken out to get the nose gear out because of the snap ring at the top of the gear wire. My initial thoughts were that if I removed the set screw from the strut, the gear strut would just slide out from the steering arm assembly leaving the stock gear wire with the c-clip, still installed to the steering arm, and then realign the new gear strut to the flat spot on the already installed gear wire. Mmmmmm!! Hope I haven't confused myself here. LOL! Thoughts???

You've concluded correctly. Stock nose strut is one piece. Loosen the steering wire screw at the servo, and move the arm back to get wire out. Then the 4 screws to remove the whole assembly. You'll find you have to do a little fiddling to get the right angle for everything to pullout then. But then it's just a matter of removing the c-clip to get the strut out. And yes, I think it's easiest to get to the c-clip off by taking the retract appart.

As far as a snap ring tool...let me know if you find one that works for these small c-clips. I just make sure my "white towel" is on the table when i mess with the small clips. I guess over time, I've found the technique to get them off and on with ease. So don't even think/wish anymore about a special tool for the job.

[T-CAT]

I finally now have an Allied Green P-38 in my hands. Let's do this! Did accent painting today, and will begin assembling and doing the decals. I already have the template programmed in my radio for the airplane and just need to adjust the throws, etc.

[Lon]

I finally now have an Allied Green P-38 in my hands. Let's do this! Did accent painting today, and will begin assembling and doing the decals. I already have the template programmed in my radio for the airplane and just need to adjust the throws, etc.

Oh yeh!! :)

[T-CAT]

I purchased it locally from a gentlemen that just simply doesn't like foam airplanes (flies a lot of composite jets/turbines), but loves P-38's. He realized working with foam isn't his favorite as he was assembling it. He looks to have put the counterweights on the horizontal stabilizer on facing the wrong way, and when it dried he tore it off, therefore tearing all the surrounding green paint around it. A large area in the center section was all bare foam and looked horrible. The plane is new with most pieces still in the box and virtually the only things assembled was the above, and then all the pushrods/clevices. He decided to sell the plane for $250, so I jumped on the offer. I picked it up yesterday with the intention of fixing the paint on horizontal stabilizer today. So, I went to Home Depot and had the paint matched and purchased an 8oz sample for about $3.00. You can see the pictures below of the flat paint and color code. It's a pretty flawless paint match. It's water based so it cleans up easily in the airbrush, which I was looking for. I took out the airbrush, started with the center section of bare foam to even out the level of paint, and did several layers with a small break in between. Then, I went over the entire horizontal stabilizer to provide an even more level layer of paint. The picture below is it still wet and drying, but it's officially fixed and matches perfectly, and will so even more once completely dried. Done deal! It also gave me a chance to paint match the antenna on top, which doesn't come that way from the factory as you all know (it's just silver).

[Westsider]

Right on T-Cat, glad the guy came around for you. Running out of other plane excuses, the 38 is closing in on the top of the list. Be hitting you up for tips in a month or two. Glad it worked out.

[BadBob]

You've concluded correctly. Stock nose strut is one piece. Loosen the steering wire screw at the servo, and move the arm back to get wire out. Then the 4 screws to remove the whole assembly. You'll find you have to do a little fiddling to get the right angle for everything to pullout then. But then it's just a matter of removing the c-clip to get the strut out. And yes, I think it's easiest to get to the c-clip off by taking the retract appart.

As far as a snap ring tool...let me know if you find one that works for these small c-clips. I just make sure my "white towel" is on the table when i mess with the small clips. I guess over time, I've found the technique to get them off and on with ease. So don't even think/wish anymore about a special tool for the job.

I couldn't find a snap ring removal tool locally, so went to the "Tube." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TBKBEmyQiY. Piece of cake! Works like charm!!!!

[Lon]

the tape is a great idea!