Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[BadBob]

Update....Man do I feel like a dummy!! I was looking at the problem strut and noticed there's a threaded hole on the opposite side of the original hole that I have been trying to remove the stuck set screw from. Just unscrew the scissor gear (see pics) and move it to the other side, insert a new set screw and...viola!! You have to play with the postioning of the scissor “gear” to get it in the right position again.

[BadBob]

UPDATE !I just finished 5 flights with the new struts with the additional short spring installed. Works great. I had one landing with a small skip from touching down too soon. The other landings a good no skip/bounce touchdowns.

Hey Lon. I may have missed this question somewhere in the thread, but did you add the extra spring to the nose gear as well?

[Lon]

Hey Lon. I may have missed this question somewhere in the thread, but did you add the extra spring to the nose gear as well?

No I didn't. The nose is much firmer and short stroked cylinder action.

[Chalredline1]

Well, as noted in the thread about motor failures my issues were NOT gear related, although I really like the new castle gear. What I discovered yesterday is that the starboard motor is cutting out very briefly and intermittently. After having no troubles on Wednesday the first flight yesterday whet well, second flight plane made hard right on takeoff. Attempted another takeoff which was fine. However, for the first time since this issue popped up I experienced twitchyness in flight. Brought it down and after running the throttle up and down a few times the starboard motor was cutting out. Again, it was very quick and intermittent. I also got a little screech from the plane. After seeing the other thread I'm going to dig into the wiring on that ESC/motor for any to see if there are any loose connections or bad solder joints. I spoke to Motion and they thought it might be the ESC failing. I'd been flying this plane since about May and only within the past few weeks has this popped up but I had never been able to see/feel the motor cutting out - until yesterday.

[BadBob]

I posted this on a separate thread on subject, but thought I would ask here as well.

"Tried to find a video on how to sync the motors to start up one at a time, but haven't found one yet. I did find these links on the "tube" for single motor."

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCAO-GFjkPY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzQLqrHYov8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNBDzGuCOQU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqJVAV5oBTQ

[BadBob]

I just finished installing the last L/G springs into the Castle gear set and when I started screwing the mount back into the wheel well, one of the holes in the mount is stripped!!! When I took the gear out, I thought that one screw felt funny coming out...too easy!! Now I know why. I've got foam-tac and I've got foam- cure. Will one of these work to re-thread the hole in the mount by reinserting the screw? :@

[F106DeltaDart]

Both of those are too soft. I would suggest using with a thick CA glue or an epoxy to fill to hole. Then, drill a small pilot hole and retire ad the hole.

[BadBob]

Both of those are too soft. I would suggest using with a thick CA glue or an epoxy to fill to hole. Then, drill a small pilot hole and retire ad the hole.

Thanks.F106. I'll try the epoxy with microballoon filler mix. Anyway, I took a measure with my digital caliper and it tells me that the bad hole is 2.84mm and the other holes are all 1.29mm, top left hole. This out of the box. This plane is starting to show an accumulation of issues in quality control .

Update.. Filled the hole with epoxy mixed with microballoon filler and all is well.

[BadBob]

Brad at MotionRC tells me "That can be a very common issue, very sorry; as we obtain these from our Partners in China. Yes, CA glue, or a good Hot Glue, will re-thread the hole just fine."

So for those that haven't switched out the stock L/G, I suggest you all check your L/G mount screws (and all other security hardware). Again, I had one that wasn't even threaded. Even the hole was too large. Epoxy mixed with microballoons, if you wish, worked great.

[BadBob]

Just curious. Is anybody using telemetry with the TX/RX to monitor RX battery voltage in flight and if so, how is it setup with the TX to show (speak) the voltage of both RX battery packs on the TX, I.E., two 5200, 3s, 11.1v packs should read 22.2v on the TX?? If only a timer alarm is used, what would would be an average flight time for two 5200, 3s, 11.1v packs, say just flying around, no fancy stuff? I have the Graupner mz-24 TX and GR-24 Pro RX. Graupner tells me that in order for the TX to show RX voltage, I will need this: http://www.graupnerusa.com/Voltage-Module-VM-80.html.

[xviper]

Just curious. Is anybody using telemetry with the TX/RX to monitor RX battery voltage in flight and if so, how is it setup with the TX to show (speak) the voltage of both RX battery packs on the TX, I.E., two 5200, 3s, 11.1v packs should read 22.2v on the TX?? If only a timer alarm is used, what would would be an average flight time for two 5200, 3s, 11.1v packs, say just flying around, no fancy stuff? I have the Graupner mz-24 TX and GR-24 Pro RX. Graupner tells me that in order for the TX to show RX voltage, I will need this: http://www.graupnerusa.com/Voltage-Module-VM-80.html.

I have no experience with your type of TX or RX, however, I'd like to get something clarified: Are you actually going to fly this plane (stock) with 2 x 3s batteries in series? That equates to 22.2v. This plane can't function on 6 cells. Something will get fried. If you are flying it 2 x 3s in parallel, that is still just 11.1v. This plane will likely not get off the ground on 3 cells. Not sure what you're trying to do but something terrible is about to happen. I hope it's just a typo.

[BadBob]

I have no experience with your type of TX or RX, however, I'd like to get something clarified: Are you actually going to fly this plane (stock) with 2 x 3s batteries in series? That equates to 22.2v. This plane can't function on 6 cells. Something will get fried. If you are flying it 2 x 3s in parallel, that is still just 11.1v. This plane will likely not get off the ground on 3 cells. Not sure what you're trying to do but something terrible is about to happen. I hope it's just a typo.

Thanks XV. No worries. I just had a senior moment confusion with trying to figure out what my telemetry RX battery voltage should read on my TX using the 2 battery packs and in parallel. I now know I should be seeing 11.1v on my TX RX voltage readout screen. I was just wondering if there are others out there that have telemetry between their TX and RX and are they getting the correct RX battery voltage telemetry readout on the TX without having to use a 3rd party device such as the one here. http://www.graupnerusa.com/Voltage-Module-VM-80.html.

[xviper]

Thanks XV. No worries. I just had a senior moment confusion with trying to figure out what my telemetry RX battery voltage should read on my TX using the 2 battery packs and in parallel. I now know I should be seeing 11.1v on my TX RX voltage readout screen. I was just wondering if there are others out there that have telemetry between their TX and RX and are they getting the correct RX battery voltage telemetry readout on the TX without having to use a 3rd party device such as the one here. http://www.graupnerusa.com/Voltage-Module-VM-80.html.

I only have RX voltage telemetry on my sailplanes, but the principle should be the same regardless. If you have batteries in parallel for the ESCs, then the BECs will also receive and put out voltage in parallel. That means that whatever one would put out, that's what 2 will put out. IE, the same. RX voltage should still be between 5 and 6 volts whether you have 1, 2, 3 or more batteries and BECs in parallel. It's only when you have them in series that the voltage is multiplied. You should NOT ever see 11.1v at your RX display in the telemetry screen of your TX unless you've picked a system that uses such high voltage and you've done it on purpose. BECs scale down whatever voltage is put into them. This is why RX voltage is generally always between 5-6 volts no matter if the flight battery is a 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or even higher cell count. The only thing they may NOT do, is to scale voltage UP to the RX if your flight battery is a single cell (3.7v). As for the TX, it'll be whatever the battery is that's in it.

[T-CAT]

The suspension struts from MotionRC/FlightlineRC are now in stock :).

[RRHandy]

Ordered But have yet to get an email.? :p

[Lon]

Ordered But have yet to get an email.? :p

Ordered :) email "order confirmed"

[T-CAT]

Ordered at roughly noon today and got a shipping confirmation over an hour after that. Very cool stuff. Thanks Motion ;).

[dkalwishky]

And the suspension struts are out of stock, that didn't take long!

[BadBob]

I only have RX voltage telemetry on my sailplanes, but the principle should be the same regardless. If you have batteries in parallel for the ESCs, then the BECs will also receive and put out voltage in parallel. That means that whatever one would put out, that's what 2 will put out. IE, the same. RX voltage should still be between 5 and 6 volts whether you have 1, 2, 3 or more batteries and BECs in parallel. It's only when you have them in series that the voltage is multiplied. You should NOT ever see 11.1v at your RX display in the telemetry screen of your TX unless you've picked a system that uses such high voltage and you've done it on purpose. BECs scale down whatever voltage is put into them. This is why RX voltage is generally always between 5-6 volts no matter if the flight battery is a 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or even higher cell count. The only thing they may NOT do, is to scale voltage UP to the RX if your flight battery is a single cell (3.7v). As for the TX, it'll be whatever the battery is that's in it.

As I'm new to electrics, I'm beginning to see how this works now. I forgot to take in consideration the BEC's. As I understand it, the BEC's are integrated into the ESC's in this case, correct? So this is why my TX voltage readout reads 5.4v for the RX with both batteries/ESC's "Y'd" into Ch. 1, (throttle) on the RX. This as both batteries are at the "store" charge state when plugged in, so they're not fully charged. So, is it better to set a timer alarm for flight time rather than to go by voltage readout on the RX? As I understand it, my 2-3300mah, 30-40c, 4s packs low voltage warning would be set at 3.4v per cell, or 13.6v, but that wouldn't work with integrated BEC's?

[xviper]

As I'm new to electrics, I'm beginning to see how this works now. I forgot to take in consideration the BEC's. As I understand it, the BEC's are integrated into the ESC's in this case, correct? So this is why my TX voltage readout reads 5.4v for the RX with both batteries/ESC's "Y'd" into Ch. 1, (throttle) on the RX. This as both batteries are at the "store" charge state when plugged in, so they're not fully charged. So, is it better to set a timer alarm for flight time rather than to go by voltage readout on the RX? As I understand it, my 2-3300mah, 30-40c, 4s packs low voltage warning would be set at 3.4v per cell, or 13.6v, but that wouldn't work with integrated BEC's?

Correct about the integrated BECs. Don't be too concerned about your RX voltage. There are 2 internal BECs providing power to the RX on this plane. If one fails, the other "should" continue to power the RX. Unless you have a complete ESC failure on both ESCs on this plane, the RX will still draw sufficient power to do a "dead stick" landing even if there's not enough juice to power the motors. Internal BECs are nothing magical. They draw current from the main power coming in to the ESCs. Voltage drop at the RX will be the last thing you'll see happen if the main batteries get low. No point in watching it. Of course, you can always go for externally powered external BEC. One is all you need. These are usually powered by a 2 cell battery and is plugged into any unused channel on the RX or even into a "Y" with some servo.
Also, don't concern yourself so much with flight battery voltage. I try to land while the main batteries are still near storage voltage of about 3.75v/cell. This involves some trial and error. Start on the safe side and set your timer for 5 minutes for this plane. When you land, immediately check the batteries. If you still have lots of juice left, add a minute to the next flight and continue to do this until such a time that your batteries come down at the desired voltage. If you fly particularly high throttle on a given flight, then mentally deduct some time off your flight and land before the timer goes off. You can set your ESCs at whatever low voltage cut-off you like but don't fly till that happens. You also dial in what kind of cut-off you'd like ---- soft or hard. SOFT will get you a rapid decline in motor response while HARD will just cause your motors to simply stop. You can generally get a few more seconds if you shut the throttle down and give the batteries a little time to come back, then try the throttle again for another short burst. If you are low to the ground at the time, this will be of no use.
Now, if you're really worried about battery voltage while flying, you can utilize one of a couple of devices that will give you some warning. One type is the loud buzzer that you attach to the balance port of one battery. Get 2 if you want one on each. They cost about 3 to 5 bucks each.

http://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=280_454&product_id=2060

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29652__HobbyKing_8482_Lipoly_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2s_6s_.html

Another alternative is to get one or two of those remote pagers that vibrate when the battery gets to a set voltage. HobbyKing used to sell them but they were finicky at times so they don't carry them anymore and I stopped using them because always forgot to turn the pager on. I know of buddies who use both types of devices and they seem to like them fine. Personally, I just fly by time. I think most people fly by time.
When I'm really concerned about RX power (on expensive planes), I go with something like this:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/scorpion-backup-guard-scp-sc-bug/p239994

This does nothing till RX voltage is low or zero and it cuts in automatically so you can dead stick it. Peace of mind and cheap. Just remember to turn it on so it can monitor things.