Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[TwistedGrin]

I deployed the FMS 1450mm P-51D Oleo's to the original struts after cutting them off to the desired length to fit into the Oleo. They are 4mm - I put them on without disassembling the retract or the legs.....dremmel tool the flat spots for the Oleo grub screws and you're done.....the nose wheel is a little more difficult though

TwistedGrin

[BadBob]

Has anyone encountered the servo arms being off center? Using my servo adjuster, I centered the right rudder but the left rudder servo arm can't be centered with the adjuster so must be manually centered. I don't know how I'm going to manually center it without cutting it out and it's glued in! I can't get to the screw to remove the arm without cutting away a huge chunk of the vertical fin. I suppose I can carefully cut away enough of the vertical fin to get to the set screw and re-glue it back in. What a pain!! All the others are OK.:@

[xviper]

Has anyone encountered the servo arms being off center? Using my servo adjuster, I centered the right rudder but the left rudder servo arm can't be centered with the adjuster so must be manually centered. I don't know how I'm going to manually center it without cutting it out and it's glued in! I can't get to the screw to remove the arm without cutting away a huge chunk of the vertical fin. I suppose I can carefully cut away enough of the vertical fin to get to the set screw and re-glue it back in. What a pain!! All the others are OK.:@

How off center is it? Can you post a picture? Since it's on the rudder, personally, I'd leave it if it's not too bad off center and adjust the rod till the rudder is centered. You could separate the 2 rudder servos on the RX and use TX "servo adjust, sub-trim" on the rudder to center or keep them together and use the same "sub-trim" to average out the 2 servos, then adjust the rods for a neutral position on both.
In the past, as a last resort (without pulling the servo out), I've cut an angled slit in the foam that leads to the horn screw. Use a thin screwdriver (press into slit) to access the screw and loosen till you can just get the horn off and shift it over a notch or two. Screw it back in, use colored filler to cover the now bigger slit. The screwdriver doesn't have to hit the screw dead on. Even from an angle, it will turn.
For other control surfaces, I'd re-clock the arm, but for rudder, even if it's off by 2 notches, I just leave it and adjust the rod for neutral.

[BadBob]

How off center is it? Can you post a picture? Since it's on the rudder, personally, I'd leave it if it's not too bad off center and adjust the rod till the rudder is centered. You could separate the 2 rudder servos on the RX and use TX "servo adjust, sub-trim" on the rudder to center or keep them together and use the same "sub-trim" to average out the 2 servos, then adjust the rods for a neutral position on both.
In the past, as a last resort (without pulling the servo out), I've cut an angled slit in the foam that leads to the horn screw. Use a thin screwdriver (press into slit) to access the screw and loosen till you can just get the horn off and shift it over a notch or two. Screw it back in, use colored filler to cover the now bigger slit. The screwdriver doesn't have to hit the screw dead on. Even from an angle, it will turn.
For other control surfaces, I'd re-clock the arm, but for rudder, even if it's off by 2 notches, I just leave it and adjust the rod for neutral.

Thanks xv. It looks like it's only 1-2 clicks off. As you said, I could give them separate channels and "software" adjust them. I'm considering trying CA "un-cure" and see if that lets me pull the servo out. Even a small hole into the foam wouldn't be a bad way to go. I can fill it back in.

[xviper]

I'm not so sure servos on these planes are CA's in. I've yanked out quite a few servos from crashed planes (FMS, Freewing) and they look like they're secured with either some sort of rubbery cement or some kind of contact cement. If you X-acto blade the edges of the servo, it may not be too bad to just pull it out. The back face might take some foam with it but leave it on the servo and FoamTac it all back it after centering the arm.

[Grossman56]

She's ready for the maiden. Weather for this weekend looks good.

Good for you Lon! Wish I could be there to see it, sure is pretty!!

Grossman56

[mr.frankenjet]

Happy landings Lon, she looks great

[Lon]

Happy landings Lon, she looks great

Busy with grandkids today. 3 of them staying the weekend. So, they know tomorrow, they're going with grandpa to fly his new plane. Plan on having the Mobius to catch the maiden. Will post tomorrow night!

[Capt. Crunch]

Good luck Lon!



Jeff

[Aros]

A little dissapointed that the new upgrade struts didn't Include
the siscors on the mains, but still look nice in any case ;)

I agree the lack of oleos on the mains were a miss in my opinion. Maybe they will get it right down the road?

[Lon]

Did the Maiden on my Allied Green 38 this morning. What a great flying plane!!

[F106DeltaDart]

Nice flying and congrats on the successful maiden Lon!

[BadBob]

The upgraded struts are in! They will show in stock shortly...

https://www.motionrc.com/products/fl...nt=25628023878

Are they the same size as the stock originals? No info on them on the web site. I tried the "ask a question" link, but nothing happens when I click "post." It's a dead link.

[BadBob]

I've built two of them now....umm, I've got to take breaks it seems. Anyway, I'm not fast at assembly of planes. Very particular, check and recheck things(my def of slow:). Spinner and props, balance. I would say the 3 hours doesn't include decals, not the first time for sure. But the second plane, yes, total of 3 hours working on it and ready to go. One thing that was very easy and quick on the second one. Setting up the transmitter, just copied the model setup of the first one and boom! Transmitter ready to go.

How did you balance your props and spinners? I've never done a 3 blade prop balance before. I'm using the Dubro prop balancer.

[Lon]

How did you balance your props and spinners? I've never done a 3 blade prop balance before. I'm using the Dubro prop balancer.

I have the Dubro also. 1st i balance the spinners. Most all the time I use electrical tape pieces to place inside the spinner at the high point(lightest) determined after giving her a spin or two, to determine the "high"/light part of the spinner. You'll see and be able to guess, or remove portions of tape to get the spinner ballanced. Most the time this is a pretty quick process. I have in some cases, used drops of CA to balance.

Then i put any decals on the props and spray a light coat of clear KRYLON Acrylic to give the decals a little more durability of not coming off. I then mount the props to the spinners. Give the prop/spinner a spin and see which prop is the heavy one (ends up at 6 oclock or close. If blade ends up at say the 7 position. The blade at 7 is the heaviest, and the other blade to your right as you look at it is at about 3, this is the second heaviest blade. Add weight to the lightest blade (closest to 12 oclock position) Most the time i use some clear scotch tape for weight. Don't be afraid to add a 2" long piece down the middle of the back side light blade to start out. It won't take many tape pieces and soon, the SECOND heaviest blade will be ending up at the 12 o'clock position. This tells you that the lightest blade to start out, and heaviest, are now close to the same. NOW, add just a little bit to that blade at 12(now the lightest) and "Wallah! You should be able to give her a spin, and it should not be stopping in the same position because a blade(s) is heavier.

NOTE: If in no hurry...Instead of scotch tape, i will keep adding very thin coats of acrylic for weight.

[BadBob]

Check your sticker/decal bag carefully folks. I just opened mine up to start applying and find one of the wing/fuse stars is missing. You can see in the attached photo that it's been clearly cut away. Right out of the bag, no less!!:@

[BadBob]

Never mind. I see that one of the stars as well as the "no step" decal has already been put on. Didn't expect that. My bad! A closer detailed inspection would have caught that.

[mr.frankenjet]

Congrats Lon, nice job, put it in the log book

[Lon]

Congrats Lon, nice job, put it in the log book

Thanks!! It's in the log book now!
I don't know if you have seen this. But i come accross this video on the 38.
Maybe i'm the last one to see it!!
Very informative....

[Lon]

The upgraded struts are in! They will show in stock shortly...

https://www.motionrc.com/products/fl...nt=25628023878

Did I miss these coming in stock? Gone already??