Originally posted by GliderGuy
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Tom
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Is there an adapter I can get to do this? I use EC5 connectors.
Tom -
Hi Tom,
If you read the various posts, the large majority of the posters suggest that soldering a jumper between the positive ESC’s battery-side wires and soldering a separate jumper between the negative ESC’s battery-side wires is the most reliable solution. This scheme allows for leaving the batteries separate and apart for charging.
If you are not comfortable doing this type of work, perhaps have a friendly RC modeler who has the know how do it for you.
-GGComment
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GG: like this?Comment
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Yes….assuming + jumpered to + and - jumpered to -Originally posted by I-fly-rc-aircraft View Post
—GGComment
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For those of you who have added the upgraded nose strut to the more recent version of the model, I have to ask, how did you do it? I see that the stock nose gear retract is different from the original...I tried to install the upgraded nose strut and I couldn't for the life of me figure out how. I removed the retract, studied it at all sides and there were no allen nuts on either side. I could see straight into the base of the stock strut. I released the allen nut from the swivel arm that controls the rotation of the strut for left and right and still I couldn't release the stock strut from the retract.
I cycled the gear thinking maybe there is a hidden allen nut but nope. After about an hour of scratching my head I finally gave up.
Obviously I am missing something so please put me out of my misery. For those of you who have purchased this model in the past year or so, who have also upgraded the nose strut, what's the magic secret? Much thanks in advance!
Sincerely,
Sleepless In Seattle
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbredaComment
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You have to pull the retract apart, there's a C clip on top of the metal pice that you have to remove, be careful not to loose it, you need it to install the upgrade. It's actually a little bit of a pain in comparison to the mainsComment
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Here is the HOW TO video:
Always look on YouTube.
Don’t let the C clip fall into the carpet!
-GGComment
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Normally I try and work on e clips inside a large plastic storage bag. If the clip takes off there's nowhere for it to go.Originally posted by rifleman_btx View Post
Mike\"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"Comment
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Aros, You're just beginning the fun.
You need to take the trunion and old strut from the retract unit which means taking the retract unit apart. Be very careful here.
You do need to remove the C clip from the old strut but there is no C clip for the upgraded struts. Freewing upgraded the upgrade.
On the mains there are set screws on either side of the trunion to remove the stock struts and tighten up the new struts. There are washers under the retract unit on the mounting plate for rake adjustment. I believe this is in the later offerings of this model.
I just purchased my model about three weeks ago, along with the strut upgrade, so should be the latest version.
Tom
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GG: I soldered the jumpers on the ESC wires this morning. In order to get shrink tubing over the solder joints I had to remove the EC5 connectors. I connected the jumper wires directly behind the EC5 connectors. worked out great.
Now if one battery fails I won't get one motor quitting.
Tom
iComment
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Good deal!
-GGComment
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I do it too… plus a magnet… lose one and you learn.Comment
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Ah! Thanks guys, I had seen that video Pilot Ryan did (it's still on the video tab) but I was under the impression the newer versions had an updated retract (and the nose strut itself was perhaps newer?) where it was much easier than that old method of pulling the retract apart and dealing with the C clip. I think I read it in a recent review. Anyhow, thanks again. Now for that dagnabbit main strut I can't get the stripped allen nut to release. I even bought extractor drill bits (didn't work), applied heat (didn't work), drilled it (didn't work)...Sheesh.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbredaComment
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Oh man that is the worst, I hate when those things do thatOriginally posted by Aros View PostComment
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Last resort….Dremel a thin slot across the head. Cuts into the strut!! Then use a blade screwdriver on the Allen/grub screw.
Or….get another nose gear assembly. UGH
-GGComment
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It's his main strut GG. If he's done all that I doubt the cutting a slot will work without destroying the strut..Comment
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Yeah it's my main strut. The first main strut installed without a hitch. Easy peesy. The other one said nope! Not gonna cooperate buddy. I may have no choice but to (UGH) buy a whole new main retract.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbredaComment
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Question about connecting a single 4S battery:
I would like to use a single 4S 5000 in this plane. However, the product's webpage on MotionRC says it requires a SERIES connector to connect the one battery to two ESCs. That doesn't sound quite right to me, but I have only ever used series or parallel connections for multiple batteries feeding one ESC, not the other way around.
My understand is that SERIES only affects voltage and PARALLEL only affects CURRENT/CAPACITY. So wouldn't going from one battery to two ESCs using a series connector "split" the voltage? Wouldn't I want a parallel instead? IE wouldn't one 4S 5000 mAh battery, if connected in series to two ESCs, behave like 2x 2S 5000s? And if connected using a parallel, it would behave like 2x 4S 2500s, which is what I want.
I of course am probably wrong, which is why I am checking here first!Comment
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