Thanks! Wish you could have made it out.
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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread
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Originally posted by fhhuber View PostWell... my opinion on strut spring tension is: You want appx 1/4 to 1/3 compression just from the aircraft sitting parked.
Then the struts will kind of act like an RC car's shocks.
Clip or shim the springs to your personal taste. If you need stiffer, just insert a dowel piece that is
ca hardened.
That is what has worked best for me on several aircraft, from appx 2 lb to 25 lb with functional scale struts.
Well, I'm not an expert on these things but if you shim (put some dowling) the struts, then you take a chance of bottoming out. Rather than treat the symptom it would be easier to solve the problem and insert heavier springs. Just my two cents...........which is probably what it's worth.
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Well, I went out to the garage to detail the plane a bit more, and adjust some rates. I was disappointed to find the nose gear door servo is bad. It'll open the door, but not close it. I isolated it from the "blue box" and determined it is the servo, and not the sequencer.
I received the plane 3/25/16 so I'm still in warranty. I opened a ticket with Motion, so I'm sure they'll warranty it. Down side is, It probably the most buried servo in the plane. I'm assuming it's just glued in, so hopefully a little prying will get it out...
Video below. Sorry for the portrait format, just did it for Motion, as I know they like Proof of Life videos...
I hate that motorcycle they make me ride. I'm here to tell you, there ain't nothing in the world I hate more than that elephant under my ass.
-Officer John Wintergreen-
ElectraGlide in Blue, 1973
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And a little over an hour later, the warranty servo is on the way!
Thanks Motion, this is why I buy all my planes here!!!I hate that motorcycle they make me ride. I'm here to tell you, there ain't nothing in the world I hate more than that elephant under my ass.
-Officer John Wintergreen-
ElectraGlide in Blue, 1973
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Motion is great. Not sure how many have noticed, but while weathering the plane today I noticed the bottom portion of the rudder fins are hard plastic just like the nose cone. Likely to prevent rash or damage from tail strikes during a bad landing.
So much thought and effort went into this plane and it shows. Fantastic job, Motion. Keep em comin.
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Originally posted by Arycon View PostMotion is great. Not sure how many have noticed, but while weathering the plane today I noticed the bottom portion of the rudder fins are hard plastic just like the nose cone. Likely to prevent rash or damage from tail strikes during a bad landing.
So much thought and effort went into this plane and it shows. Fantastic job, Motion. Keep em comin.
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Originally posted by FLTRI View PostAnd a little over an hour later, the warranty servo is on the way!
Thanks Motion, this is why I buy all my planes here!!!
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by PlaneCrazy View PostI went to Home Depot today to get some paint and asked for acrylic..........he told me that it was latex/acrylic and now I'm reading the label and it says satin/enamel.....is this wrong???
OK...trying to post pics. Photo of the sample bottle...again, from Home Depot. The other two are the labels for the olive drab and ventral grey colors on the Allied Green P-38. You may be able to give them the color code table underneath where it says "custom color match." The table says things like...CLRNT. BL. FL. KXL. TL. I think the numbers in those colums designate the computer color code. Not sure if they can match it that way for you. Hope this helps.
Awesome! Changing the resolution worked. Photos attached, guys. I included a pic of my plane, still a work in progress, but it has the color matched olive drab in various areas to dull the weathering. Hopefully it gives you an idea of how well the Behr paints work.3 Photos
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Nice work there Arycon! She's sure lookin' the part!My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by Chalredline1 View PostCould someone please tell me the dimensions (length/width) of the portion of the wing that is removable? I want to make a wing bag for them prior to the plane arriving.
Thanks, Mark
9" wide at the wing root
4.5" wide at the wing tipPat
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Originally posted by mz34334 View PostAndy: Thanks for the info. I hadn't seen these before.
Anybody: Has anyone gotten a good match from Lowes or Home Depot on Silver? If yes, would you please post the paint codes?
Thanks,
Mike
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I posted this info in the Painting Tips and Tricks. The Silver mentioned hear is a great match and the Sergeants is a slightly darker, which is great for varying the color of individual panels. Anyone with paint color tips and matches, fell free to add to this thread, then we'll all have easy access to the info.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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I finally started assembly of mine ( stepped away from the Avenger build for the day) and man this has to be the best thought out ARF I've seen. My FMS was such a PITA to assemble and the nose wheel steering was a joke. I hooked up everything for testing and all work as advertised. Just attach the pod balance the props and decals and I'm done. Maiden Sunday if the weather holds.
Well done Motion and FlightLine.
Mike\"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View PostNice work there Arycon! She's sure lookin' the part!
Originally posted by downwindleg View PostLove the weathering on your plane Arycon! What methods and materials did you use?
Once the power goes on, seal it with matte clear in a spray can. Locks the powder to the model. The paint chips are done using a tiny detail brush for model painting. I use model master chrome silver, which has the best metal reflective quality. Again, less is more. Gently scrape the edge of panels and add dabs here and there.
That is it. Feel free to PM me if anyone has any questions.
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Back and ready for action...and the damn wind to calm down....new center section, nose art and new name as well...
used FMS gear for the mains and FW gear for the nose,along with a 2.5" Robart wheel..bought the 2.75 diamond tread ,but Im using the stock control arm,so the larger one wouldnt quite fit, even with trimming the inside of the well...and with the 2.5 I had to trim the rear wall of the well, as well as cut the spring by a little less than half to clear the rear of the well. Also had to tie the scissor to keep the gear from extending fully after lift off. Think if I had used the 2.25" wheel I wouldnt have had to do that.3 Photoswww.TSHobbies.com
Hobby Paint racks and acrylic display stands for collectibles.
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