I am having a problem getting the all of the decal shown off the paper backing when lifting up the clear top layer with the decal to then place on the airplane. I get about half of the lettering to come up with the clear top layer and the other half stays on the paper backing. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get all the decal letters to come off the paper backing at the same time so I can transfer the complete decal to the airplane? Otherwise, will I have to get what I can of the decal lettering off the paper backing and transferred on to the airplane and then peal the rest of the letters off the paper backing one by one to transfer to the airplane?
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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread
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Originally posted by zorkahn View PostI am having a problem getting the all of the decal shown off the paper backing when lifting up the clear top layer with the decal to then place on the airplane. I get about half of the lettering to come up with the clear top layer and the other half stays on the paper backing. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get all the decal letters to come off the paper backing at the same time so I can transfer the complete decal to the airplane? Otherwise, will I have to get what I can of the decal lettering off the paper backing and transferred on to the airplane and then peal the rest of the letters off the paper backing one by one to transfer to the airplane?
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If it starts to lift, I lay it back down and rub on it some more. And like Ryan says, bend the backing right over and peel 180 degrees.
Here's a challenge, the whole top of the wing of my Pitts (blue part) was a decal. That's a 1400 mm wing! time and patience got her on. One thing I would caution is to NOT apply any Minwax or Varathane to the surface before applying the decal. The decal binds to the coating and not to the wing. I've had to use good old testors model glue to bind directly to the plane.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Great suggestion Rifleman, we got some tips from a show that the wife was watching last night, the one that stood out in my mind is that if you have a screw head that's starting to strip, put a rubber band over the top and use the screwdriver into the rubber band then into the threads, haven't tried it yet, but will definitely when I run into that little irritant !
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Originally posted by Grossman56 View PostGreat suggestion Rifleman, we got some tips from a show that the wife was watching last night, the one that stood out in my mind is that if you have a screw head that's starting to strip, put a rubber band over the top and use the screwdriver into the rubber band then into the threads, haven't tried it yet, but will definitely when I run into that little irritant !
Grossman56Bob Duncan
The only real helicopter is the CH-47 Chinook. The rest are just sling loads!
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Originally posted by rifleman_btx View PostHere's a quick little idea for hard to reach screws like the retract door servos. If you ever need. It works great for me.Bob Duncan
The only real helicopter is the CH-47 Chinook. The rest are just sling loads!
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Very :Cool: Ryan. I just kept thinking however of the AWWWW :Poo: if that stick mount failed back into the port prop :Angry:Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Sweet POV Ryan! What about experimenting with a transparent/plastic stick? How much does it effect CG?My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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I've started adding the nomenclature to the silver P-38 and am wondering about some of the locations. For example I am doing Battle Axe which has 114 on the rudders. There are some nomenclature that would go on top of both of the "ones" if I did it that way. Would the real aircraft have all the nomenclature in place before painting it up for the pilot? Would the nomenclature be under the 114 on the rudder, would it be removed before painting the 114 on the rudder?
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